Clutch issue suggestions (1 Viewer)

[rex in bama]

Sorry for my naivety, but can you explain?
Not sure what "looks" you refer too or how new fluid helps?

Your clutch master reservoir looks much darker than the brake master, yet they use the same fluid. Suggests that the clutch fluid is pretty contaminated and should be bled/replaced. The clutch master looks old enough to be replaced as well, though, especially if you are having clutch performance issues too.

Both the clutch master and slave are available and are a pretty easy job to replace. Would also be worth replacing the return spring on the slave and the clutch fork boot while you are down there - all still available and at a very reasonable price.

 

[Razin96]

I recently had similar clutch issues, though i was seeing a leak. I ended up replacing the Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder.

I actually found somewhere along the way, someone used electric tape to "fix" the cable between the Clutch master and Slave cylinder.

Despite this, at the end of the day my biggest problem was a bent spring that I replaced with a spring from the local hardware store.

 

[Fandrover]

Your clutch master reservoir looks much darker than the brake master, yet they use the same fluid. Suggests that the clutch fluid is pretty contaminated and should be bled/replaced. The clutch master looks old enough to be replaced as well, though, especially if you are having clutch performance issues too.

Both the clutch master and slave are available and are a pretty easy job to replace. Would also be worth replacing the return spring on the slave and the clutch fork boot while you are down there - all still available and at a very reasonable price.

Ahh OK, thanks for the explanation. Probably just a trick of the light or bad photo skills as in reality it isn't.

 

[Fandrover]

I recently had similar clutch issues, though i was seeing a leak. I ended up replacing the Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder.

I actually found somewhere along the way, someone used electric tape to "fix" the cable between the Clutch master and Slave cylinder.

Despite this, at the end of the day my biggest problem was a bent spring that I replaced with a spring from the local hardware store.

View attachment 3231546

View attachment 3231547

Thanks for suggestion and taking time to post photos.... Always helps with a visual reference

 

[Razin96]

Thanks for suggestion and taking time to post photos.... Always helps with a visual reference

If you do go down the road of replacing the Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder and get stuck feel free to PM me.

I imagine I'm the least qualified person to give anyone mechanical advice of this forum, but that also means if I can figure it out, nearly anyone can.

 

[sggoat]

before replacing both master/slave, check to make sure the clutch pedal push rod is adjusted correctly(pedal play) if the lock nut on the fork is loose, the the push rod will rotate, causing the pedal play to constantly try to increase--

 

[h82crash]

Ahh OK, thanks for the explanation. Probably just a trick of the light or bad photo skills as in reality it isn't.

Well then the clutch reservoir is painted black? Because if it isn't painted, the clutch fluid is severely contaminated, usually by moisture which leads to rust in the cylinders and darkening of the fluid. Also would explain the problem. Just trying to clarify.

 

[bikersmurf]

Id replace the clutch master and slave. It seems like they are on the way out.

 

[Fandrover]

Ahhh

Well then the clutch reservoir is painted black? Because if it isn't painted, the clutch fluid is severely contaminated, usually by moisture which leads to rust in the cylinders and darkening of the fluid. Also would explain the problem. Just trying to clarify.

I get where you are coming from now…… sadly that just the result of the previous owners over exuberant use of underbody waxoyl type product sadly! It’s everywhere, the whole cabin, roof, underbody, engine bay, and yep sadly the reservoir

 

[Fandrover]

before replacing both master/slave, check to make sure the clutch pedal push rod is adjusted correctly(pedal play) if the lock nut on the fork is loose, the the push rod will rotate, causing the pedal play to constantly try to increase--

I’ll check this first as certainly feels like an abundance of play in pedal travel before anything happens even before it had this problem.

 

[Fandrover]

If you do go down the road of replacing the Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder and get stuck feel free to PM me.

I imagine I'm the least qualified person to give anyone mechanical advice of this forum, but that also means if I can figure it out, nearly anyone can.

Thanks for that I’ll certainly take you up on it when needed….. know my way around a land rover blindfolded but a novice with this baby!

 

[Fandrover]

No volunteer foot for bleeding yet but for the whose who used the words spring or slave cylinder I offer the following photo….

 

[Fandrover]

And yes the spring is just free hanging! Oops

 

[Fandrover]

Just incase anyone is online….
Bought replacement parts (though to be fair adjustment may have worked as everything was loose and hanging from pedal through to clutch)
Decided to fit all new with usual aches and pains but having an issue with the clutch master cylinder removal.
The top left bolt is part covered by the brake booster, I can’t see any mention of this anywhere and so far I’m finding it impossible to get at…. Any suggestions?

Trying to avoid removing brake master cylinders and booster for fear of developing problems there.

(Ps still absolutely no sign of any leak)

 

[JohnnyC]

You can loosen the 4 nuts holding the booster to the firewall from inside the truck

You will not break those … they should free up easy as they are protected inside the truck …. And… since you have a booster that’s been replaced before

You will not have to take them all the way out to get the clutch master bolt off

 

[Fandrover]

You can loosen the 4 nuts holding the booster to the firewall from inside the truck

You will not break those … they should free up easy as they are protected inside the truck …. And… since you have a booster that’s been replaced before

You will not have to take them all the way out to get the clutch master bolt off

Cheers for that, I thought the ones on the inside of the firewall were welded in place same as the clutch ones so I didn't pay much attention.
Just at store searching for skinniest tube wrench style tool so will try once home... Thanks

 

[70fj40]

I would consider replacing your soft hose at the same time as you replace slave/master. The hose is not expensive and gives good insurance from possible leak. I recently had an issue similar to yours and replaced the slave and master only to still have an issue. Seemed to be troublesome to get bled. I finally replaced the soft hose as well and no more problems. I was shocked how quickly the system bled of air with a new hose. I never found any leaks either.

 

[Fandrover]

Thanks Johnny, a combo of loose nuts, tube wrench, socket and ratchet prevailed with some pressure on the booster

 

[Fandrover]

I would consider replacing your soft hose at the same time as you replace slave/master. The hose is not expensive and gives good insurance from possible leak. I recently had an issue similar to yours and replaced the slave and master only to still have an issue. Seemed to be troublesome to get bled. I finally replaced the soft hose as well and no more problems. I was shocked how quickly the system bled of air with a new hose. I never found any leaks either.

Arghhh why didn’t you tell me yesterday at the store haha

Joking aside yeah I think I’ll order one to be delivered

 

[Fandrover]

Guys a big thank you and credit to you all.
Happy to say that the problem has disappeared without me ever being certain of the fault.
There was definitely too much play everywhere with overstretched springs, broken springs, rubber gators missing, adjustments all over the show and I guess at being the main issue.
However I changed and fitted a new slave cycling, new master cylinder, 2 new springs, bled twice, new fluid, adjusted all as per notes and boom a working, even, steady clutch and gear change for €115/$125.

I could of adjusted first, then fluids, then springs, then slave, then master and stopped at whichever fixed it to save money but hey I enjoyed a day tinkering, great result for a cheap price so I’m a very happy chappy!

Thanks again until the next job…. Electrics nooooo