Clutch, GearBox and Transfer Case servicing...

[Sumguy]

Hoping to get eyes on my list and "while you're in there" suggestions, please note/be aware that I'm in a Sept 1982 built 60, so early everything which makes a HUGE difference in some cases for those built just a month later (the majority of 60's).

Generally speaking, I'm looking at all clutch related items from Toyota dealer after reading through prior threads. These are the items I need to most help with since Toyota won't recognize my VIN/doesn't have accurate online info for a 1982 Landcruiser. And the GB/TC kit from Terrain Tamer (GBK2/TK4)

Toyota Genuine #90311-28004 ~ Seal for transmission front bearing retainer
Toyota Genuine #90341-18021 ~ Updated Drain/Fill Plug with Gasket for ALL Axles, Transfer Cases, and Manual Transmissions (x4)
Toyota Genuine #90119-08134 ~ Clutch Pressure Plate Bolt (x6)
Toyota Genuine #90311-99065 ~ Engine Rear Main Seal 2F
Toyota Genuine #12151-61010 ~ Oil Pan Gasket
Toyota Genuine #90430-18023 ~ Oil Pan drain plug
Toyota Genuine #31250-60481 ~ Disc Assembly, Clutch
Toyota Genuine #90363-15004 ~ Bal Bearing 15 35. (???this isn't the throwout bearing, not sure what it is but saw it listed in another thread)
Toyota Genuine #31210-60260 ~ Clutch Cover Assembly
Toyota Genuine #31231-36070 ~ Hub, Clutch Release Bearing
Toyota Genuine #31126-60021 ~ Clutch Release Fork Boot

And then resurfacing the flywheel locally. Oh, and some FIPG (Toyota red vs black? Something else? I've limited experience here).

I know some will ask why I'm doing this, honestly it's mostly the 4th gear whine while driving and wanting to make sure my labor efforts cover as much maintenance on a 210k mile vehicle as possible. Getting close to retirement age and have thoughts of taking my 60 west into the Rockies, so I'm slowly tackling the things that I'd rather not have fail and have reason to think might.

Thanks!

 

[CruiserTrash]

And the GB/TC kit from Terrain Tamer (GBK2/TK4)

34mm idler shaft case, NOT 38mm yeah? Not included in the kit: shims for the rear retainer on the transfer case. Just get a bunch of different sizes because there's some back and forth getting the preload correct. Speedometer o-ring for sure, the old ones are usually pretty smashed and flat. Speedometer driven gear (plastic) if available in case yours is worn. Make sure to get the correct tooth count that matches the driving gear on the end of the transfer case shaft. Get two of the detent springs for the t-case too. Toyota had a TSB for these so the new springs are stronger and the transfer case shift lever is less liable to pop out.

May want to look into the 2-Low mod while you're in there as well. You lop off a tab on a bracket - takes about 30 seconds - and boom, you have 2Low gearing available. The transfer case drives the rear output in low range and the front output doesn't spin at all. That's saved me on a trail twice when I was having front end issues. I've seen no drawbacks two years later. It's the sensible way to get the functionality of a "twin stick" setup in my opinion.

MAKE SURE you get the seal between the transmission and transfer case if it's not in the rebuild kit. And MAKE SURE you install it correctly so it doesn't leak - that's how people have the problem where the transmission fluid goes over-full and the transfer case fluid drops.

Also, new pilot bearing if it's not in the kit. Go rent the largest slide hammer at the auto parts store and use an angle grinder to shape the tip so it fits inside the old pilot bearing. It'll come out in about 10 seconds. None of this Wonder Bread or whatever.

Toyota Genuine #90311-28004 ~ Seal for transmission front bearing retainer

Shouldn't need to take off the bearing retainer unless you're doing a full build on the transmission. And that's a can of worms. If you want to chase NLA synchros and stuff ... that's a whole other thing.

Toyota Genuine #90341-18021 ~ Updated Drain/Fill Plug with Gasket for ALL Axles, Transfer Cases, and Manual Transmissions (x4)
Toyota Genuine #90119-08134 ~ Clutch Pressure Plate Bolt (x6)

Are these the bolts that go into the end of the crankshaft? If not get those too. 6 of them.

Toyota Genuine #90311-99065 ~ Engine Rear Main Seal 2F

Use black FIPG on the corners of the rear main bearing retainer corners - see the FSM for explanation. That's if you loosen the rear bearing retainer. Some people do - oil pan has to come off as well, loosen the bearing bolts, old rear main seal slides out and new one slides in easy. Other people leave the oil pan and bearing retainer in place and pry the old seal out, then bang the new one in using a piece of PVC pipe or whatever you have that fits.

Toyota Genuine #12151-61010 ~ Oil Pan Gasket
Toyota Genuine #90430-18023 ~ Oil Pan drain plug

New oil pans and gaskets are available too, if ya wanna go nuts.

Toyota Genuine #31250-60481 ~ Disc Assembly, Clutch

Available from Toyota? If not Cruiser Outfitters and other places have Aisin

Toyota Genuine #90363-15004 ~ Bal Bearing 15 35. (???this isn't the throwout bearing, not sure what it is but saw it listed in another thread)

No idea what this is

Toyota Genuine #31210-60260 ~ Clutch Cover Assembly

The inspection cover? Long discontinued, clean and paint yours then get some foam weatherstrip from home depot so it seals against the bell housing. All the old weatherstrip stuff is either long gone or smushed flat.

Toyota Genuine #31231-36070 ~ Hub, Clutch Release Bearing

Throwout bearing? I think the spring retainers for the clutch fork are still available too - little thin pieces of wire. You'll see them on the EPC.

Toyota Genuine #31126-60021 ~ Clutch Release Fork Boot

And the rubber vent for the other side of the bell housing.

And then resurfacing the flywheel locally.

Yes on this.

Oh, and some FIPG (Toyota red vs black? Something else? I've limited experience here).

I used Permatex red anaerobic gasket maker on my transfer case at the recommendation of Georg at Valley Hybrids. No leaks after a couple years.

Other things that are available:
Some of the hardware (nuts bolts washers bushings, etc) are available for the transfer case shift linkage. Make sure you take "before" photos real well so you can put it all back the right way.

You could consider a Terrain Tamer long-spline input gear in the transfer case. It replaces the existing input gear AND the spacer where the PTO gear would go. Because the splines are longer, the load is distributed more than the regular gear, and thus it's not as prone to twisting or wearing out splines. It's almost $400 though - not cheap.

Get one of the bushings for the transmissions shift lever. It's a circular piece of Delrin that looks like basic under-sink plumbing seal., except blue. The ball at the base of the lever seats onto the bushing. Photo stolen from City Racer:

After doing my transfer case I very much regret keeping the gear rations stock. I really should have gone to at least 3:1. I feel like if you do ANY wheeling at all it's a good idea. I think with 3:1 there is either none or minimal clearancing needed inside the transfer case, so it's not as high stakes as the 4:1 gear set. I thought I was saving a lot of money by not changing the gear set, when in reality the whole assembly is so time consuming to remove and open up, then reinstall ... I should have just done it. Lowering the low range by 33% would be so nice on trails. And now I won't do it just because of the time involved in redoing work I already did two years ago. It's a chunk of change, but make sure you won't regret skipping it.

 

[bhsdriller]

Good advice. The Aisin kit is great but I followed what a lot of others say and went with a toyota throw out bearing. Seeing them side by side it's definitely a better piece

Pricey but can get them on sale if you catch them. Right now toyota is doing 15% off but they also do 25% often.

 

[Sumguy]

Wow, much thanks on the detail. I added the few things you mentioned that I could find, but it doesn't seem as though there is a long spline option for pre 10/82, at least listed and I haven't called yet. And I'm not in a financial place where I can spend another $1000 altering gear ratios when the only reason I've even been in low is to keep off the brakes. Might be a great idea, but I can see that money being better spent elsewhere.

Looks like I'm more or less ready to make orders. It'll suck to miss something, but it's not the only toy in the shed so it can wait on shipping if necessary. Thanks again!