Cleaning out rusty water passages

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Hey! So I am getting ready to swap out the water pump on my 1HZ and thought this would be a perfect time to really clean out the cooling system.

I back flushed the system and got a lot of crud out (even two heater hose pieces from somewhere! I'm surprised a boot didn't come out!). I did about 8 distilled water runs distilled water runs and was still getting tan water coming out so I just filled with coolant and ran it for the last month.

Now that I am needing an new water pump and doing the timing belt at the same time, I really want to finally get all of the sediment and sludge out of the block if possible! I don't have any major cooling issues, but since I will be driving in the desert and up hills at altitude soon I really want to make sure the system is running at it's peak. I have been looking at Royal Purple cooling system flush that looks like it may be a good thing to use to clean everything out, but I don't want to damage anything. I don't know what else is out there, but I really want to protect the engine with anything i do here.

Does anyone have any suggestions for getting the system clean?
Any products that worked or didn't for you?
Any things I should definitely NOT do to keep my engine in good shape?

Thanks all!

K

 

[gerg]

Those flushes mostly use acid to eat the stuff. If no aluminum is exposed it should be good. Brass is resistant to acid for fairly brief periods. Cast is extremely corrosion resistant. I've cleaned rads with muriatic acid and it works wonders if left for a few hours. It will eat aluminim for breakfast. I dilute 1:1 and keep a fairly close eye on it. Be careful as it will burn your lungs.
g

 

[ForealBoreal]

would CLR do the trick?

 

[RockDoc]

x2 on muriatic acid if it won't contact aluminum (not sure if it will effect gaskets, wouldn't try without reassurance from someone with more experience / knowledge). I've done brass rads and a bare block and it works great.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Honestly if it's not broke don't fix it. The Rev flush is probably the best thing to do to get the bulk of loose debris out. I would put a cooling system filter on it to get the last of the circulating junk out and maintain the system.

 

[doug720]

I have had good luck with Restore Coolant System Cleaner.I buy this from Ryder System Fleet Products.

Follow the directions and my results have been great.

Here is my last order a few weeks ago for reference -

Shipping Method: SHIP BEST WAY
Payment Method : Credit Card
PO/Card Number : CC Trans ID -

Qty Item Number Description Availability Unit Price Total Price
==============================================================================

1 V52 CC2610 Restore Coolant System Cleaner Gallon Stocking Item 21.23(ea) 21.23

==============================================================================
Order Subtotal 21.23
Promotional Discounts 0.00
Shipping Charges 7.95
Estimated Taxes 0.0
Order Total 29.18


*****SHIPPING POLICY*****
Shipping Policy: Orders placed on in-stock items will generally ship the same day if received prior to 3:00 pm ET. Click on http://ryderfleetproducts.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/20 for more details.

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Those flushes mostly use acid to eat the stuff. If no aluminum is exposed it should be good. Brass is resistant to acid for fairly brief periods. Cast is extremely corrosion resistant. I've cleaned rads with muriatic acid and it works wonders if left for a few hours. It will eat aluminim for breakfast. I dilute 1:1 and keep a fairly close eye on it. Be careful as it will burn your lungs.
g

The stuff I am looking at does not use acid but detergents to clean the block. I like that since I have heard that acid can be a 'not worth the effort' option unless the block is bare and you know what metal the stuff is in contact with.

x2 on muriatic acid if it won't contact aluminum (not sure if it will effect gaskets, wouldn't try without reassurance from someone with more experience / knowledge). I've done brass rads and a bare block and it works great.

I have heard about muriatic acid, but since I am trying to do this all in one day and don't want to get into having to really make sure it is all out I am saving this step for when and if I rebuild the engine in the future. I have heard great things though!

Here is the link to the stuff I am thinking about... http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/royal-flush-cooling-system-flush/

Anyone ever use it?


@doug720 : is your stuff an acid or a detergent system? did you notice cooler temps after the treatment?

 

[roma042987]

im finishing up a 12ht swap in my 60 and the cooling system appears to have had sea water ran through it. im going to leave my heater lines disconnected until the coolant is nice and clean. I have this filter ordered for the top radiator hose http://www.ebay.com/itm/231538921891?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
and im going to run a couple cans of this stuff through the system before I hook the heaters back up

 

[rick_d]

GM bulletin #99-06-02-012D

oxalic acid (wood bleach) and washing soda (not baking soda).

remove thermostat and run - with hdt's I use a cross over from right long heater pipe to left short pipe near left rear corner.

if you use a clear 3/4" hose about 3' long you can watch the crap cut loose and circulate in hose- available by foot at ACE hardware

 

[gerg]

Just found an old post I did on when I cleaned my system out.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/suggestions-for-1hdt-coolant-flush.544287/
g