what bar did you use?
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- Thread starter
- #82
20” cheapo bar from Defend Indust. It was a gift from a friend as he couldn’t find a good spot for it in his truck. Nothing special but seems to work well for this setup.
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- #83
Got a couple awesome things from my even more awesome wife for Xmas. Started with pretty mean looking shovel which I was able to bolt up with a Smittybilt mount. It's meant for the center part to be bolted and hold a shovel and ax combo, but one half grabs the factory rail nicely while the other half holds the shovel. Locks too.
Even more excited about this MountainHatch though. No more nasty carpet worries and it can be used for food prep. Was between this and the TrekBoxx version, but now the decision is made for me. Really like this one overall, the only issue was the cover between the trunk and the tailgate would catch a bit on the MountainHatch when closing things up. A little Dremel work to create a 45* underneath cleared things right up. Sticker game going strong too.
Even more excited about this MountainHatch though. No more nasty carpet worries and it can be used for food prep. Was between this and the TrekBoxx version, but now the decision is made for me. Really like this one overall, the only issue was the cover between the trunk and the tailgate would catch a bit on the MountainHatch when closing things up. A little Dremel work to create a 45* underneath cleared things right up. Sticker game going strong too.
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- #84
Got these slick LED bumper lights to replace the reflectors. Tapped into the trailer wiring fairly smoothly. Work as lights, brakes, and blinkers. Read some reviews on here crapping on them for not being bright enough. They aren't blinding, but they also aren't mean to fully replace anything. More visibility is more visibility in my opinion. Upgraded my license plate bulbs to LED as well after giving the housings a good scrubbing in the sink.
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- #85
Really got the electrical bug now, so have some more wiring projects coming up including stereo and interior lighting improvements. Staying focused on keeping it OEM+. A few other exciting things, including an important suspension bit and some cool stuff purchased right here from other iH8Mud members coming in soon as well. Lots of work to do!
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- #86
Shout out to @RobRed's awesome idea for tailgate lights found on TLCFAQ. I found these really cheap red/white LEDs on Amazon and wired them up on the inside of the hatch.
Put an SPDT switch where the inside handle is so you can pick red, white, or off. The ground is through the hatch door sensor so the lights also go off when the hatch is closed regardless of switch location. Power sourced from the trunk 12V outlet since I've jumped the Acc relay to give it constant instead of ignition-switched power.
Put an SPDT switch where the inside handle is so you can pick red, white, or off. The ground is through the hatch door sensor so the lights also go off when the hatch is closed regardless of switch location. Power sourced from the trunk 12V outlet since I've jumped the Acc relay to give it constant instead of ignition-switched power.
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- #87
Running wire through the hatch and this boot is the worst part. I pulled an extra wire through to aid any further fishing I might need to do in the future.
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- #88
Final product. The switch is nicely protected by the pull handle on the hatch:
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- #89
A little preview of the remix...
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- #90
I think I forgot a step...
But seriously, thanks to @PabloCruise, @RobRed over at TLCFAQ and many others for outlining the process of plugging into the Nakamichi connector. I ended up having to temporarily putting things "back together" so I didn't get frostbite on a few trips while waiting for this magical part.
With that, the pins pop right in, plug into the female Nakamichi connector on the firewall side (remember plugs are named based on their pins, not the plastic connector). My final wiring setup ended up looking something like this:
After several trials of mostly cursing and pinching myself, I got everything stuffed behind the stereo. Pics to come!
But seriously, thanks to @PabloCruise, @RobRed over at TLCFAQ and many others for outlining the process of plugging into the Nakamichi connector. I ended up having to temporarily putting things "back together" so I didn't get frostbite on a few trips while waiting for this magical part.
With that, the pins pop right in, plug into the female Nakamichi connector on the firewall side (remember plugs are named based on their pins, not the plastic connector). My final wiring setup ended up looking something like this:
After several trials of mostly cursing and pinching myself, I got everything stuffed behind the stereo. Pics to come!
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- #91
Remix complete:
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- #92
Pretty bad at staying on top of this. That's not to say nothing's happened. I've been more reliable at posting to Instagram. Big news is we passed 200k on a trip to northern MI and back!
That trip came with some excitement though! Story to come after some updates that led to the debacle.
That trip came with some excitement though! Story to come after some updates that led to the debacle.
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- #93
Put a new Skar Audio sub in the OEM box. Wasn't really feeling taking up some of my drawer space with a bigger sub box. This setup sounds a bit improved, though still pretty wimpy. Admittedly, my factory Nakamichi wasn't as shot as I would have expected. Ordered the super cheap (as in $18 cheap) Pyle sub as well. Here they all are for comparison:
Went with the Skar sub for obvious reasons. Nakamichi is 6ohm, the two replacements are dual coal 4ohm (so can be wired dual coal for 2ohm or 8ohm, or single coil 4ohm). I chose to wire it up single coil 4ohm which is probably taxing the factory amp a bit, but no fires so far. And if it dies, it dies...excuse for something better!
The install did require some dremel work to the back of the sub box, including removal of the mounting tabs:
But it ultimately seated up nicely and sounds better than it did with no rattles or other issues.
Went with the Skar sub for obvious reasons. Nakamichi is 6ohm, the two replacements are dual coal 4ohm (so can be wired dual coal for 2ohm or 8ohm, or single coil 4ohm). I chose to wire it up single coil 4ohm which is probably taxing the factory amp a bit, but no fires so far. And if it dies, it dies...excuse for something better!
The install did require some dremel work to the back of the sub box, including removal of the mounting tabs:
But it ultimately seated up nicely and sounds better than it did with no rattles or other issues.
- Thread starter
- #94
Here's where (unbeknownst to me) the road trip debacle began. Got these bad boys in straight from Australia to fix up my AHC pressures:
King Springs KTRS-79. eBay seems like the cheapest and most reliable way to get them in the States currently.
Install was pretty easy! Lift the rear of the truck by the diff pumpkin, place the frame rails on jacks, lower the axle and undo one of the lower shock mounts and sway bar, then keep lowering the side you are swapping slowly until the spring is loose. Didn't have to undo any brake lines or diff breather mounting points, but did have to watch them carefully, especially on the driver side.
Test drive was SOOOO much smoother riding around town. My AHC pressures when I got the truck were on the upper end of spec...without the rear seats in. Adding drawers, tools, skids, recovery gear, and a few other permanent stowaways in the back end were overloading the system for sure. Got my rear pressures from 8.1-->5.8 with my usual load (factory range is 5.6-6.7). Highly recommend for anyone keeping AHC and running more than a bone stock 100. Spacers just don't seem worth the effort for minimal improvement in pressures, and I bet these ride plenty nice on even a fairly empty truck.
King Springs KTRS-79. eBay seems like the cheapest and most reliable way to get them in the States currently.
Install was pretty easy! Lift the rear of the truck by the diff pumpkin, place the frame rails on jacks, lower the axle and undo one of the lower shock mounts and sway bar, then keep lowering the side you are swapping slowly until the spring is loose. Didn't have to undo any brake lines or diff breather mounting points, but did have to watch them carefully, especially on the driver side.
Test drive was SOOOO much smoother riding around town. My AHC pressures when I got the truck were on the upper end of spec...without the rear seats in. Adding drawers, tools, skids, recovery gear, and a few other permanent stowaways in the back end were overloading the system for sure. Got my rear pressures from 8.1-->5.8 with my usual load (factory range is 5.6-6.7). Highly recommend for anyone keeping AHC and running more than a bone stock 100. Spacers just don't seem worth the effort for minimal improvement in pressures, and I bet these ride plenty nice on even a fairly empty truck.
- Thread starter
- #95
And so the shenanigans began. Let me start by saying, as usual, the blame is entirely on me and not the truck.
Anyway, family and I are headed up I-75 to MI from Cincinnati for a nice week in the woods and snow. Wife immediately notes a new vibration in the truck, I shrug it off...crappy MI roads and whatnot. We're no longer used to them like we were when we lived in the Mitten.
Loud thunk from under-ish the truck at highway speed. "I'm sure we just ran over some debris."
More vibration after a quick driver swap. "Probably these grooved roads."
Vibration getting really bad. "Okay, let's stop and take a look."
No exit for a few miles. "Wow, something feels like it's about to fall off..."
Stop at the next exit:
Of course my non-mechanical better half knew something was wrong right away and I blew it off for a few hundred miles. In hindsight, I'd totally forgotten to torque the lugs down properly after putting the truck on the ground during the rear spring replacement. Was too excited to test drive the new springs. That loud noise on the highway was almost certainly losing a lug nut or two and hub cap.
Good news, I keep way too many tools on us at all times and some spares. Cheesy, but "two is one and one is none" really applied here. I for some insane and inane reason had put two spare lugs and two spare lug studs in the truck a few months back because all you folks on these 'Mud forums are basically doomsday preppers but also right, dammit. Thanks guys and thanks OCD.
So all I had to do was jack up the truck, pop the wheel off, unbolt the brake caliper, remove the disc, and hammer out the two broken studs in 20* weather in a truck stop parking lot. No tows, parts searches, or expensive diagnostics.
The truck stop had a tow center attached and the nice manager came out to see if we needed anything. He lent me a stack of washers to use a spacers to pull the lug studs through the hub using lug nut and my cordless impact gun. Worked like a charm. Bolted back up and on the road minus one center cap:
The whole ordeal took about an hour. Turns out MI roads are as rough as we though. Rode smooth the rest of the way. Listen to your spouses, gentlemen...
Anyway, family and I are headed up I-75 to MI from Cincinnati for a nice week in the woods and snow. Wife immediately notes a new vibration in the truck, I shrug it off...crappy MI roads and whatnot. We're no longer used to them like we were when we lived in the Mitten.
Loud thunk from under-ish the truck at highway speed. "I'm sure we just ran over some debris."
More vibration after a quick driver swap. "Probably these grooved roads."
Vibration getting really bad. "Okay, let's stop and take a look."
No exit for a few miles. "Wow, something feels like it's about to fall off..."
Stop at the next exit:
Of course my non-mechanical better half knew something was wrong right away and I blew it off for a few hundred miles. In hindsight, I'd totally forgotten to torque the lugs down properly after putting the truck on the ground during the rear spring replacement. Was too excited to test drive the new springs. That loud noise on the highway was almost certainly losing a lug nut or two and hub cap.
Good news, I keep way too many tools on us at all times and some spares. Cheesy, but "two is one and one is none" really applied here. I for some insane and inane reason had put two spare lugs and two spare lug studs in the truck a few months back because all you folks on these 'Mud forums are basically doomsday preppers but also right, dammit. Thanks guys and thanks OCD.
So all I had to do was jack up the truck, pop the wheel off, unbolt the brake caliper, remove the disc, and hammer out the two broken studs in 20* weather in a truck stop parking lot. No tows, parts searches, or expensive diagnostics.
The truck stop had a tow center attached and the nice manager came out to see if we needed anything. He lent me a stack of washers to use a spacers to pull the lug studs through the hub using lug nut and my cordless impact gun. Worked like a charm. Bolted back up and on the road minus one center cap:
The whole ordeal took about an hour. Turns out MI roads are as rough as we though. Rode smooth the rest of the way. Listen to your spouses, gentlemen...
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- #97
For a few bucks and a pound or so, lug nuts and lug studs should be in every 100's kit.
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- #98
Speaking of a few bucks, the spare tire lift mod posted in the FAQ is a no-brainer that I put off for too long. Finally got around to it the other day and gained about 1.5" of extra clearance back there. Should keep that fresh BFG rubber from butt-dragging on rocks so much. The hitch is now the lowest point back there. A few people have asked me why I don't remove the hitch...honestly, not only do I want to keep my towing ability, but it's a really solid factory piece that pretty much acts like a slider for the rear bumper and exhaust outlet. I've smashed that thing pretty hard in a few places and imagine it's literally saved my ass...
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- #99
eBay center cap replacement from Godknowswhere came in to put the finishing touch on my lugnut fiasco. Definitely not real deal OEM, but close enough when they aren't right next to each other. It hasn't fallen off...yet
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- #100
Got another big-ticket item crossed off the list too. @white-knuckleoffroad sliders came after a few weeks of eagerly waiting. Really fine craftsmanship, really solid, and mount really easily even with AHC lines and whatnot.
I decided to be weird and paint them a matte hammered-texture brown color. It ended up being a way more blingy gold color than the brown/bronze I was trying to get in order to match my grille and emblems. But I still think I like it. Maybe I'll do the wheels to match. Let me know if I'm crazy, tasteless, or both. Either way, it's rattle can, so I can always top it off with something new down the line.
I decided to be weird and paint them a matte hammered-texture brown color. It ended up being a way more blingy gold color than the brown/bronze I was trying to get in order to match my grille and emblems. But I still think I like it. Maybe I'll do the wheels to match. Let me know if I'm crazy, tasteless, or both. Either way, it's rattle can, so I can always top it off with something new down the line.
