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- #21
That's why I wish working on cars was more like paint by number. Not robbing thread. All for greater good of cruiser heads.
Charging Air Conditioning in an FJ60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OrangeSkunk60
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I just recharged mine...blowing at almost unreal low temps. I plugged the recharge can into that top one. my little cheap IR thermometer was reading 12 degrees at back of vent.
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- #23
Did you have any trouble finding the R12? I struck out at Carquest in small town I live in. Need to make for stops.I just recharged mine...blowing at almost unreal low temps. I plugged the recharge can into that top one. my little cheap IR thermometer was reading 12 degrees at back of vent.
Did you have any trouble finding the R12? I struck out at Carquest in small town I live in. Need to make for stops.
R12 has not been sold (or available) to unlicensed AC technicians (you and I) since the early 2000s. Its usage in passenger vehicles stopped in 1995. Look on Craigslist and eBay for a few cans.
R12 has not been sold (or available) to unlicensed AC technicians (you and I) since the early 2000s. Its usage in passenger vehicles stopped in 1995. Look on Craigslist and eBay for a few cans.
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- #28
I'm leaning towards the 134 Conversion vs. killing the planet more than the 11 mpg does already.
I might have to link up with you when you tackle this. I need to do the same thing to mine. Ive got a '88 FJ62 and the AC is not charged. I need to do the update and replace a few things.
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- #30
I'm busy as hell with work, kids sports and head off on vacation in a few days but my goal is to get this tackled before PNW gets warmed up for the summer.
In case people didn't know, auto parts stores that have free tool rental, such as AutoZone, typically will have the tools you need for this job available for free. I've borrowed their vacuum pump and manifold when I did my 80.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
No pressure at all in my system on the low side. what would be the order of business? It has never been function in my possession. Pull a vacuum and see if it holds, or replace all o-rings, & drier, then pull the vacuum? Thanks
Your R12 gas has escaped for a reason, likely because an o-ring has given up the ghost.
Having done this twice, I recommend that you take the time now to Replace all the o-rings, (ALL- there are some in the dash), replace the drier, drain and refill the compressor with correct oil, (oil type depends on if you stay with R12). and replace the evap core, and thermal expansion valve. If it sounds like a lot, its do-able. and its better to do this all one time and then have perfect AC, versus wasting cans of R12. Then once you have replaced these parts, you can pull a vacuum and if it holds vacuum, refill with R12.
all of these parts can be had for not too much money on gulp* hate to say it: rock auto
Having done this twice, I recommend that you take the time now to Replace all the o-rings, (ALL- there are some in the dash), replace the drier, drain and refill the compressor with correct oil, (oil type depends on if you stay with R12). and replace the evap core, and thermal expansion valve. If it sounds like a lot, its do-able. and its better to do this all one time and then have perfect AC, versus wasting cans of R12. Then once you have replaced these parts, you can pull a vacuum and if it holds vacuum, refill with R12.
all of these parts can be had for not too much money on gulp* hate to say it: rock auto
1984 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.2L L6 A/C Expansion Valve | RockAuto
RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.
www.rockauto.com
BadReligion
SILVER Star
Great advice. I'd also recommend using Nylog Blue on all connections so you won't have to deal with this again for a very long time. I'd also stay away from rental vacuum pumps and gauges if possible. More than a few people have chased phantom "leaks" due to faulty gauges. I'd also run vacuum for several hours prior to charging.
The rental vacuum pump that Pep Boys used to rent was the weakest/cheapest one you could get. So, good advice to find a more powerful one.
@Miloslavich is right - R12 is too precious to waste, so methodical approach is wise, if time consuming.
@Miloslavich is right - R12 is too precious to waste, so methodical approach is wise, if time consuming.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
@Miloslavich thanks for the recommendation. I plan to try to maintain R12 unless problems arise after I get this all freshened up. After posting I actually bought all the parts but the compressor off Summit. I wanted Denso stuff and the compressor cost more than the rest of it combined. Looks like I'll be diving in to get everything sealed up good first. I am accepting the fact that I probably need to remove the compressor in order to drain it and replace the seals?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
If you're going to re-seal the compressor, it definitely has to come off. If you're just replacing the o-rings under the two plates, that can be done without removing it.
Excellent advice, also be sure to lube the O-rings with a light coating of compressor oil.
@4runner2FJ60 you dont have to remove the compressor, thats up to you, but if you do remove it it may make things easier to replace all the seals and flush the old oil out of it and clean it up.
I'd stay R12 if you can, its not hard to find and when the orignal R12 system is working correctly and sorted, it blows ICE cold.
@1972FJ55 - this guy knows his stuff, listen to him
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Okay thanks! This might be a dumb question, but where and which FSM is the AC system in? I flipped thru the engine & chassis & Body manuals I have and can't find anything. Can the old oil just be poured out of the compressor then refilled when charging? I ordered the mineral oil for R12 and Nylog Blue.
Pull the two plates off then turn it upside down. It may help to rotate the front hub of the compressor. Be sure to drain into something that allows you to know how much fresh oil to put back in. A measuring cup works nicely.
