Charcoal canister

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Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Threads
22
Messages
126
Location
California
Finished painting my compartment today so while I was putting everything back I realized that my charcoal canister isn't hooked up to any carb or vacumn as I have a weber and a desmogged 78' FJ40. The only thing hooked up are the two lines that lead downwards to the gas tank. Can I remove the canister and clean up my messy looking cruiser up? If so what do I do with the two lines? Thanks for the help
 
My California 78/40 is also fully desmogged. I am still running my original charcoal canister that I just recently purged. I still have all the original hoses attached. I would try to keep those in place if you can. If you need some pics to show hose layout, let me know.
 
You don't want to remove the charcoal can. You rig will smell like evaporating gas all the time. Hook it up to a spare vacuum connection somewhere. If you don't notice a lot of smell now, you could just leave it venting to atmosphere.
 
The computer and vacuum switching valves controlled the canister. It is important as the others noted for capturing the expanding gas that comes off your gas tank on a hot day. It also provides the vent fro the gas tank to replace displaced volumes of gas if your gas cap still seals. The gas tank it self has three vent lines on top strategically placed so the tank will vent at any angle.

Do you still have the hardline crossing the top of the engine bay? I just recently re-installed all this stuff. I made a new hardline to cross the engine bay from fuel line. Do you still have the vacuum switching valves at all? The computer relied upon temp and speed inputs to allow the canister to vent, usually in tandem with the throttle positioner. If you have a weber and most of this stripped than you have lost the factory inputs.

I found a simple solution, and thus far it has been working perfectly, as near as I can tell. Get a Delphi CV10039 or equivalent from 1990's to 2000's GM vehicle. It is a simple vacuum actuated valve. I have noticed a lot of similar type valves in charcoal systems now. Sometimes it is integrated right in the top of the can. It usually has three ports, two for the larger vent line, one smaller that triggers it.

I used 5/16 fuel line, fit the larger ports fine, ran it from the canister to the valve. I teed into the PCV line. This may take some adapters, really it just needs to go into the intake manifold someplace. The small fitting needs to go to a ported vacuum source. I teed into the vac advance for the distributor. This opens the diaphragm in the valve only when the throttle is open. The idea here is that the vapors from the canister can throw off idle, so you do not want to draw them in all the time. Also having the canister directly vented to the manifold will actually allow it to just vent back out the aircleaner all night. The vacuum valve allows it to vent only when you are giving throttle. This how GM did it, and others and mimics the Toyota system.

Like I said, it has worked for me the last couple months. Been parking in my garage every night, and no gas smells in the morning, tank seems to be venting fine, so I think it is a viable solution that can be done easily on a desmogged rig.
 
How do you have a desmogged 78 in California?
 
The computer and vacuum switching valves controlled the canister. It is important as the others noted for capturing the expanding gas that comes off your gas tank on a hot day. It also provides the vent fro the gas tank to replace displaced volumes of gas if your gas cap still seals. The gas tank it self has three vent lines on top strategically placed so the tank will vent at any angle.

Do you still have the hardline crossing the top of the engine bay? I just recently re-installed all this stuff. I made a new hardline to cross the engine bay from fuel line. Do you still have the vacuum switching valves at all? The computer relied upon temp and speed inputs to allow the canister to vent, usually in tandem with the throttle positioner. If you have a weber and most of this stripped than you have lost the factory inputs.

I found a simple solution, and thus far it has been working perfectly, as near as I can tell. Get a Delphi CV10039 or equivalent from 1990's to 2000's GM vehicle. It is a simple vacuum actuated valve. I have noticed a lot of similar type valves in charcoal systems now. Sometimes it is integrated right in the top of the can. It usually has three ports, two for the larger vent line, one smaller that triggers it.

I used 5/16 fuel line, fit the larger ports fine, ran it from the canister to the valve. I teed into the PCV line. This may take some adapters, really it just needs to go into the intake manifold someplace. The small fitting needs to go to a ported vacuum source. I teed into the vac advance for the distributor. This opens the diaphragm in the valve only when the throttle is open. The idea here is that the vapors from the canister can throw off idle, so you do not want to draw them in all the time. Also having the canister directly vented to the manifold will actually allow it to just vent back out the aircleaner all night. The vacuum valve allows it to vent only when you are giving throttle. This how GM did it, and others and mimics the Toyota system.

Like I said, it has worked for me the last couple months. Been parking in my garage every night, and no gas smells in the morning, tank seems to be venting fine, so I think it is a viable solution that can be done easily on a desmogged rig.

MOCONative, I would be interested in pics of what you dai as I plan on doing it to mine. I just finished swapping a '73 1f out with a '75 2f motor. The 40 was from california. Sorry for the hijack.
 
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