Charcoal Canister / LRA Breather Fix (1 Viewer)

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Is this issue one that’s from older LRA’s or is this something that a newly purchased unit would experience?
 
Yes, this is the same breather setup on the most recent version of the instructions posted recently.
 
Filled 32 gallons at my very familiar Costco pump station. At full bore!%# I can't remember the last time I've used the full two clicks on the pump handle with the Cruiser.

Ever since I've installed the LRA, the main tank has been sensitive enough, and clicks off enough, that I only use the slower pump position. Charcoal breather plumbing was too small!

With the vent blocked, it would click off like some 30+ times and I couldn't even use the slow position on the handle. Trying to put that much fuel, with a slow pump, and holding the pump trigger manually was an exercise in frustration!

I'm calling the main tank slow fill issue licked! Still standing by to see if the CEL is resolved or if it reappears.

Nice write-up.

That's a pretty nice (and helpful) DTC table. Is that sourced from the FSM or is it a generic table from teh internetz?

I wonder if simply hitting the filter with compressed air to clean it off suffice to fix this issue?

Semi-related: Your comment about the evap system doing a test overnight makes me think that the flashing CDL light we often get might be a similar overnight test, which is why it happens within 1-2 seconds of vehicle startup. I really wish I understood that system better. It's infrequent enough for me, but if it eventually becomes an issue I will end up taking apart the motor like you did and cleaning it. Now back on topic...

I dug up the DTC tables form the web. Seems common to many Toyota models and with shared generational architecture, should be the same.

Yes, hitting the filter with compressed air should be the regular maintenance item to fix this. I'm seeing if I can't make it better to last longer, but also to fix the slow pump issue.

I suspect the current EVAP issue I'm seeing is not the same as the CDL light issue. I had the CDL light issue past years and the DTCs were different. Finally fixed it last fall by R&Ring the actuators and it's not come up again. So I was able to fully resolve that separate issue without touching any EVAP stuff.
 
Filled 32 gallons at my very familiar Costco pump station. At full bore!%# I can't remember the last time I've used the full two clicks on the pump handle with the Cruiser.
That must be a huge relief! I will say it was a small part of my calculus putting in the factory sub tank that at least I wouldn't have this issue.

And the fix is just running larger gauge hose and larger filter. Simple!
 
@TeCKis300 did you end up running the 5/8” hose to the engine bay and putting the filter there? Or in the location by the filler tube like in the LRA instructions? Does the new 5/8” ID hose come off the factory charcoal canister filter and extend straight to the new filter? What is the double ended 5/8” barb for?

I need to install my LRA soon, and I’d like to use your improvements on my installation. I need to order the additional parts ahead of time.
 
@TeCKis300 did you end up running the 5/8” hose to the engine bay and putting the filter there? Or in the location by the filler tube like in the LRA instructions? Does the new 5/8” ID hose come off the factory charcoal canister filter and extend straight to the new filter? What is the double ended 5/8” barb for?

I need to install my LRA soon, and I’d like to use your improvements on my installation. I need to order the additional parts ahead of time.

I reinstalled the breather back to behind the filler neck area and will just maintain it there. At least that's my strategy now.

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The line off the charcoal canister is actually a 3/4" line. Mine was cut short, so I needed the barb to extend to the new positioning of the filters. You won't need that for a first time install.

I would go charcoal canister -> 3/4" line -> OEM charcoal filter -> 5/8" line -> 5/8" aftermarket breather filter
 
Declaring success.

Just got back from a 1200 mile trip. 3 full fill-ups. This is how the truck should have worked with the original installation of the LRA - full bore fill from every pump. No more fill anxiety or EVAP CELs.

Takeaway:
1) Increase breather plumbing size internal diameter to 5/8", all the way to breather filter
2) Maintain and clean breather when gas pump fill speed slows down. Probably every 25k miles or depending on how much dirt your rig sees.

Now if gas prices would just come down so I don't have to deal with the $100 transaction limit when filling 32 gallons @ $4.55.
 
Psyched to hear your success!! My parts are on the way to copy your mod. It’d be cool if LRA modify their system to include this (and send you a royalty, or at least a t-shirt :) ).
 
Kudos to @TeCKis300 for sorting this out. 🍻

This was timely as I learned that the line from the charcoal canister wasn’t even attached to the evap filter while installing the larger line and new cone filter. Oops.
Thanks for sharing, Cole and YES, Georg, Khris and I appreciate the efforts and patience of the 200 community. We are working on a global update of instructions, fitment kits and fixes.

Questions/calls always welcome at 209-636-0831.

Ward Harris
 
Question on this, I’m getting the EVAP leak test making a humming noise in the cabin. It started a couple days ago and no codes. Anyone have this issue and was is the filter being dirty? I haven’t been able to crawl under the car yet. TIA
 
piling on with this issue. i have been chasing my tail on this for about 6 months.

turned out my charcoal canister was JAM PACKED with moab silt from a trip in november when i had the original LRA filter installed. I thought it was a plumbing issue to go with the filtration problem, but apparently i was able to suck up enough moab dust to jack up the charcoal filter. keep that in mind as a potential issue if this isnt resolved with the filter upgrade.

i dropped the tank (not nearly as much of a PITA as i had anticipated) and replaced the charcoal canister/leak test pump assembly about three weeks ago (~$500 from rock auto). things went pretty well for about a week, and then started getting the CELs again. found this thread, replumbed and installed a mo bettah filter (went with 3/4" having already trashed the UFO filter) and the CELs seem to be holding quiet after a thousand mile weekend. tentatively planning to move the filter to the engine bay.
 
spoke too soon... CELs have returned with a vengeance.

checked the filter, still breathing when i am filling the tank. the filter is not caked up with mud.

any ideas on what else to chase? i doubt the charcoal canister is clogged again, but i cant think of anything else to mess with. getting the same CEL codes as i have been from the very beginning. anyone else have this issue?
 
Watching. I wonder if one of those sack like pie filters to go over the vent filter would help. I wouldn't run a K&N type air filter but I've seen those with a cover pre filter that can be dusted off by hand or removed and washed. On the filler vent, if clogged just reach up and pull it off. Keep a can of compressed air, pc cleaning air, and hit the vent filter with that.
 
Watching. I wonder if one of those sack like pie filters to go over the vent filter would help. I wouldn't run a K&N type air filter but I've seen those with a cover pre filter that can be dusted off by hand or removed and washed. On the filler vent, if clogged just reach up and pull it off. Keep a can of compressed air, pc cleaning air, and hit the vent filter with that.

I think that's a great idea and could work well. I didn't find one while fixing mine. If you can identify one, I'd say go for it.
 
Watching. I wonder if one of those sack like pie filters to go over the vent filter would help. I wouldn't run a K&N type air filter but I've seen those with a cover pre filter that can be dusted off by hand or removed and washed. On the filler vent, if clogged just reach up and pull it off. Keep a can of compressed air, pc cleaning air, and hit the vent filter with that.

For years my father would put an old pair of panty hose over his shop vac filter. Makes a great pre-filter. I wonder if the same would work?
 
Kudos to @TeCKis300 for sorting this out. 🍻

This was timely as I learned that the line from the charcoal canister wasn’t attached to the evap filter while installing the larger line and new cone filter. Oops.


Does one have to drop the tank to upgrade the breather line?
 
Does one have to drop the tank to upgrade the breather line?
Fortunately not. The main breather coming off the aux tank is a large 3/4" line. Just need to update the filter and adapters to a large bores. All that is behind the fender liner.
 
I used @TeCKis300 upgrade idea when I installed my tank, with a K&N filter and the larger hose routed to above the filler level, and it has been trouble free since day 1. No slow filling, no codes, no odors, no issues whatsoever. I highly recommend this modification (and hope that LRA chooses to include this in their kits). It also eliminates a few parts making things simpler, and I'm a fan of fewer things to go wrong.
 

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