Chaos - 1987 Toyota 4Runner

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We worked on the dual case setup a bit and since we have 3 trasnfer cases and non of them are top shift cases we bought a top shift conversion kit and making another one with the 3rd case cause we are cheapo's and can make it work;)
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Spend the afternoon working on the front axle. Couldn’t really start till about 3 cause I had to wait for the split rings to come in that weren’t in the kit. Got the whole passenger side together and test fitted the 80 rims and the other 15” inch rims. Well as my luck would have it neither fit cause of the Tacoma calipers:mad:. Good news is I can fit 15”s which makes more options for what tires I can run. Also to anyone who’s in thats in the same group as me off-roading. If I break a front birf it will take 5 minutes tops to remove it and we are good thanks to the ifs hubs and brake caliper mount:grinpimp:. Gonna put together the other knuckle dry and off of the axle so when we go to look at tires and rims we can see what fits.
 
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Looks great. Just a random observation, and maybe its the picture angle, but I think you need some round u-bolts for that passenger side.

Also, what was the hang up with the calipers? Where were they rubbing?
 
jynx said:
Looks great. Just a random observation, and maybe its the picture angle, but I think you need some round u-bolts for that passenger side.

Also, what was the hang up with the calipers? Where were they rubbing?
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So with the setup on the calipers the edge of it as you can see sticks out just enough for it with the rims to not be able to sit flush against the rotor/hub. I need a rim like this which is a tacoma rim or a 4runner rim that rolls straight out after the face of it to clear the caliper, or just any rim like it. Pretty sure the toyota wagon wheels would work to.
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Also the passenger side is round u-bolts,
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Makes sense on the calipers. Have the same issues when upgrading 4runner calipers to Tundra ones. The wheel has to be dished as you note so that they come out away from the face quickly to clear the larger caliper body.

And I apologize, I meant the drivers side. They look square bottom, are they supposed to be?
 
So with this axle the bottom of it is like a factory truss i guess you could call it, and when i bought the truck it came with this u-bolt flip kit and its square at the bottom for that side, from what it looks like i could get away with running round ones. but i just threw those ones on for now, when i get the actual springs I'm actually gonna use ill mess around with it.
 
Ah, that makes sense.

Either way, the axle looks great. Love the Tacoma rotor mod. Truck is coming together nicely.
 
4LowandSlow said:
So with the setup on the calipers the edge of it as you can see sticks out just enough for it with the rims to not be able to sit flush against the rotor/hub. I need a rim like this which is a tacoma rim or a 4runner rim that rolls straight out after the face of it to clear the caliper, or just any rim like it. Pretty sure the toyota wagon wheels would work to.
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Also the passenger side is round u-bolts,
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You are welcome to my Tacoma rims if you want them. They are 16" and the stock ones. They are in really nice shape, but it is a matter of personal preference. You may need 17"?

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jynx said:
Ah, that makes sense.

Either way, the axle looks great. Love the Tacoma rotor mod. Truck is coming together nicely.
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Thanks!
weejub said:
You are welcome to my Tacoma rims if you want them. They are 16" and the stock ones. They are in really nice shape, but it is a matter of personal preference. You may need 17"?

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Thanks for the offer Jamie! Ill defiantly keep it in mind, I'm gonna try to find some rims in beadlocks that will work, or atleast find tires first, Going with a 16" rim really limits my options of tires for sale on the cheap side.


Rim finder v1 is finshed!
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17s are becoming ubiquitous. Highly recommend. 15s are old news, tough to find decent used 15s these days and manufacturers are starting to stop making tires for 15s.

19.5s are the heat :D

EDIT: meant to say H1 16.5s, not 19.5s. 19.5s are for ferds.
 
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Grab a set of 16.5 beadlocks.... then you can easily change out your street and trail tires.
 
Problem is most i see are 8 lug and i need 6 lug, how much or whats the process to recenter them to 6 lug?
 
Your still missing the most important thing on this truck, lightbars, lots and lots of lightbars.

Remember these words: Lights before lockers
 
Something is a little different
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Are you putting a sf axle in the this beast???
 
Yeah, SF with chromoly rear axle shafts and disk brake converstion.

So when i put the front axle together it was pretty stuff trying to turn it, maxed out the fish scale on the hub. figured at the time we would just put some miles on it and see what happened, but with waiting on parts i got a little curious and took a look at it. So we turned down the back side of the hubs to fit on the dust deal for the spindle and kinda just guessed for it and we figured that it could be causing the problem by putting to much friction on the hub, took it apart and took the seal off and put it back together and back down right where it needs to be. Looks like another trip to moonshine fabrication in the future!
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4LowandSlow said:
Yeah, SF with chromoly rear axle shafts and disk brake converstion.

So when i put the front axle together it was pretty stuff trying to turn it, maxed out the fish scale on the hub. figured at the time we would just put some miles on it and see what happened, but with waiting on parts i got a little curious and took a look at it. So we turned down the back side of the hubs to fit on the dust deal for the spindle and kinda just guessed for it and we figured that it could be causing the problem by putting to much friction on the hub, took it apart and took the seal off and put it back together and back down right where it needs to be. Looks like another trip to moonshine fabrication in the future!
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What needs to be turned now? The hub more?
 
40LandCruising said:
What needs to be turned now? The hub more?
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Yeah this part where the dust seal rides on the hub, the ifs hubs aren't made to run this seal and this is the right way to do it is turning it down so you don't have to modify the seal or run without one
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