Changing Factory Lockers (1 Viewer)

[Blackjackaroo]

I looked for info on this before posting, so I apologize if I missed it. I posted a week ago that my son put my 95 Cruiser into a tree, pretty much destroying the body. My truck had the factory lockers. I found a 94 LC that is in good shape, but it does not have the factory lockers.

Would I be insane to try to take the Locking Diffs from my damage truck and move them to the 94 I found for sale? Is it even possible?

 

[Heckraiser]

I think you'd need to swap the whole axle rather than just the 3rd. I'm not sure how to address wiring, but you should have everything you need from the donor.

 

[Blackjackaroo]

Thanks for the reply. My concern is the wiring / electronics to make the switch work as it should. Hesitant to do something that will create problems, which is why I'm hoping to come across someone who has actually done this before.

 

[retrofive]

Yes, just swap the whole alxes assuming not damaged. Your 95 should have dash harness for the magic to dial to locker ECU (PS kick panel) and harness from the locker ECU through the firewall. You will need the magic dial, locker ECU, The short harness for the front up to the firewall and full harness from the locker ECU to the rear. I've read rear harness can be a pain to pull and most have just made a new harness for that section using 7pin trailer wire or something like.

I did my front swap. Took a day and some friends.

 

[baldilocks]

Hello and thanks for the thread. Every thread has its own twist and helps us out in a way that the last one did not. Have you considered selling your axles and investing in ARB air lockers? They actuate much quicker (instant) and would be easier to install. Do you really need lockers???

 

[secretasiansam]

I had a 95 unlocked, now factory locked! I swapped whole hub to hub axles front and back. you will need from the wrecked vehicle: locker ecu, selector switch, lead from front actuator to fire wall, lead from rear actuator to rear quarter panel, and main sil harness from driverside kick panel to rear quarter panel. will also need bulbs for the dash indicators. there are other ways to do the wiring, but this is I lost the 2nd and pwr function as the 94 had a different transmission. if you find a donor sil harness from a 95+ it should be wired for that function. I also don't have indication that lockers are on. not sure if its an issue with the 94 harness or other issues. (P.O. had rodents) also I had to repin the plug going into the abs module to get rid of an abs light.

 

[Blackjackaroo]

So assuming no damage to the axles (which is a large assumption at this point), the axle swap itself shouldn't be too bad. It's the wiring that stresses me out. May see if I can find a local shop that would be capable of helping pull this off. In a sentimental way, it would allow me to keep at least a part of my old truck. LOL.

 

[retrofive]

So assuming no damage to the axles (which is a large assumption at this point), the axle swap itself shouldn't be too bad. It's the wiring that stresses me out. May see if I can find a local shop that would be capable of helping pull this off. In a sentimental way, it would allow me to keep at least a part of my old truck. LOL.

I wouldn't stress about the wiring. Look at your current rig and where stuff plugs in and compare to what you have.

 

[MikeB]

Everything except the big wiring harness that runs down the driver's side from the kick panel to the quarter panel should swap over directly.

Take these from the old rig:
Complete axles
Harness from front locker to passenger inner fender
Harness from rear locker to rear sill
Harness that runs across the rear sill from side to side
Locker ECU in the passenger kick panel
Dial in the dash

It isn't worth pulling the old dash apart for these, just buy new ones:
2 dash indicator bulbs 90981-11018
2 dash indicator bulb sockets 83101-14040

As mentioned, there are some changes in the big harness for 95-97 vs. 93-94 because of the different transmissions. Maybe someone can comment on what problems there might be in using your 95 harness in your 94 truck.

If you don't want to swap the big harness, you can add the 5 missing wires alongside the non-locker harness. You would need 5 terminal repair pins 82998-12330 to add to the plugs each end (total of 10 pins).

 

[MikeB]

Here are the 5 locker wires that are missing in the large body harness of a non-locker Land Cruiser. It's been reported that all LX450s have a harness with the wires included.

These should to be at least 14ga:
ID1 pin 3 <--> BQ1 pin 2
ID1 pin 10 <--> BQ1 pin 1

These can be 18ga:
ID1 pin 9 <--> BQ1 pin 6
ID1 pin 13 <--> BQ1 pin 12
ID1 pin 14 <--> BQ1 pin 5

Connector ID1 is in the driver's kick panel. You will probably need to remove the ABS ECU to get to it. Connector BQ1 is the driver's quarter panel. You may need to remove the jack holder to get to it.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Subscribed.

 

[Blackjackaroo]

Fantastic Info. Much appreciated.

 

[MikeB]

When you remove the old harnesses, be as careful as possible not to damage the plastic clips that hold them to the body. The clips aren't sold separately from the harnesses by Toyota. And the mounting holes are too large for any other wire loom clips that I could find. The 80 series holes are 9mm, while most wire loom clips are made for 7mm/.25 inch holes. If you can't get the clips free from the mounting holes, you can cut the tape holding them to the old harness and then tape the new harness to them.

If anyone knows a source for wire loom clips that snap perfectly into the 80 series mounting holes, please share it.

 

[Wookie95]

I have a non-locked 95'. swapin axles is cool, but Im going with ARB lockers, bonus having the on board Air and I read that the non-locker axels are a tad bit stronger. Look into it more in depth if you're still pondering. Price wise not too different. Install work around the same also.

 

[ccslider]

I'll be doing this swap soon, good info on the wiring diagram.

 

[hamishpotter]

If you're considering ARBs I suggest chatting with Ward Harris (@wardharris) at CanAm Cruisers. The Harrop elockers are the best of both worlds - no pesky airlines and electro magnetic actuation so no torque bind. I am going that route when my budget allows. Ward is a nice guy too. My $0.02