Looking great. Pic of the completed lid will be nice.
Center Console Build w/ 4 Cupholders!
- Thread starter SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr
- Start date
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A very nice and thought out build. But I have a silly question. How are you going to view the voltmeter in that location? Or am I missing something?
- Thread starter
- #63
The voltmeter is mainly just to keep an eye on things when I have camp set up running LED lights and whatnot. I can just open my door, put the key in, and lean over and see how it's doing.
Did you figure out your tweeter problem?
If you are running your tweeters seperately from the mains in the door, you can tune it with the high pass filter on the amp that is running the tweeter, and tone down their power with the gain control. Set the tweeter amp to HP, and 10X, then adjust the frequency and gain on that amp to suit the sound you want. Tune the mains the same way, and you can either leave the filter OFF or use the LP setting to block the high frequency from the mains.
If you are running both the main speakers and the tweeters off the same amp and just parallel wiring them together, you'll need to add an external crossover for each channel (left/right) that splits the signals going to the speakers and allows you to tune their signal levels. A KX2 crossover is designed to do that. You would need two KX2, install one on the left channel and one on the right channel, and it does the same high/low pass filtering and signal volume level settings.
- Thread starter
- #65
Thanks! That helps a bunch! I haven't had time to even mess with them since moving back to college.
I will likely end up wiring them in parallel with crossovers with the front door speakers that are being powered by the KX400.4. I was hoping I would have been able to use the old front door speaker wires that come out of the back of the head unit, but they aren't really adjustable as far as I know. Would those be able to have crossovers wired in to help?
I might look at a bigger sub in the near future as my 6.5" sub does practically nothing, but I'm still playing around with all the settings.
If you want to run directly off the back of the head unit, you mean that you are not using the kicker amp to drive these speakers? If you want to run a low-mid speaker in parallel with a tweeter, a basic inline crossover will get the job done. Just wire the main speaker to the amp and/or head unit normally. Parallel the passive crossover with that speaker and hook up the tweeter to the output of the crossover.
A product like this:
"5 kHz High Pass 4 Ohm Crossover" from www.parts-express.com!
You'd need one each for left/right. That won't provide volume balancing for the tweeter though, it may still be too loud for you. usually when you buy separates they include the crossover and are pre-tuned with an L-pad so you don't have to worry about all this. If you want to reduce the signal to the tweeter, you'll need to add an attenuator (just some resistors really). They have them premade as an L-Pad dial. If you want to use fixed values, you have to make an L-pad with two resistors.
LPad schematic and designer:
L pad calculator - attenuation dB damping impedance decibel loudspeaker speaker voltage divider - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin
A dial L-Pad: "Speaker L-Pad Attenuator 100W Mono 1" Shaft 8 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!
An example of a fixed resistor part used to build an L-pad: "Dayton Audio DNR-3.0 3 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor" from www.parts-express.com!
Between an in-line crossover and an L-Pad, you should be able to accomplish what you want to do.
A product like this:
"5 kHz High Pass 4 Ohm Crossover" from www.parts-express.com!
You'd need one each for left/right. That won't provide volume balancing for the tweeter though, it may still be too loud for you. usually when you buy separates they include the crossover and are pre-tuned with an L-pad so you don't have to worry about all this. If you want to reduce the signal to the tweeter, you'll need to add an attenuator (just some resistors really). They have them premade as an L-Pad dial. If you want to use fixed values, you have to make an L-pad with two resistors.
LPad schematic and designer:
L pad calculator - attenuation dB damping impedance decibel loudspeaker speaker voltage divider - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin
A dial L-Pad: "Speaker L-Pad Attenuator 100W Mono 1" Shaft 8 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!
An example of a fixed resistor part used to build an L-pad: "Dayton Audio DNR-3.0 3 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor" from www.parts-express.com!
Between an in-line crossover and an L-Pad, you should be able to accomplish what you want to do.
- Thread starter
- #67
The pad is finally done! Took awhile to find someone who could digitize my logo and then monogram it in a interior matching gray for a reasonable price. Also took awhile to get the pad made exactly how I wanted. I still haven't stapled down the corners of the pad and bolted it down to the console. I need to pick up some bolts to do that.
Rear cup holders are also on. I ended up settling for the common fold out crab claw type. They are 4x4 so they fit perfectly on the back.
The only thing I want to do now is respray it in the smooth rustoleum bedliner and be done with it. After I resprayed the wrinkle black for the second time, the wrinkles didn't pronounce themselves as well as the first time, and the wrinkle black seems to hold dust more than the bed liner would. In some of the photos you can also see where the old tuffy pad rubbed the finish off of the lid. That is my other reason for the bed liner.
I ended up using a cup holder phone mount I found on Amazon that is completely removable. It twists to expand into whatever size cupholder you want it to go into and has tons of adjustments and a quick release button on the backside.
Almost went with the logo in white, but feared sweat stains so decided to go with it in a pretty close color matching gray.
Haven't done anything with the tweeters, but might look into that soon.
Rear cup holders are also on. I ended up settling for the common fold out crab claw type. They are 4x4 so they fit perfectly on the back.
The only thing I want to do now is respray it in the smooth rustoleum bedliner and be done with it. After I resprayed the wrinkle black for the second time, the wrinkles didn't pronounce themselves as well as the first time, and the wrinkle black seems to hold dust more than the bed liner would. In some of the photos you can also see where the old tuffy pad rubbed the finish off of the lid. That is my other reason for the bed liner.
I ended up using a cup holder phone mount I found on Amazon that is completely removable. It twists to expand into whatever size cupholder you want it to go into and has tons of adjustments and a quick release button on the backside.
Almost went with the logo in white, but feared sweat stains so decided to go with it in a pretty close color matching gray.
Haven't done anything with the tweeters, but might look into that soon.
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Exceptional execution. Well done.
amazing job
Will you offer them for sale??
- Thread starter
- #72
At this time, I have no plans to sell these.
Here it is with the pad stapled together and bolted down.
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That is so sweet. Great job. Jelly!
Sent from my SGH-M919
Sent from my SGH-M919
I know the rest of the rig is crazy clean, and now that I get to see some of your work inside, very impressive. If anyone is wondering, this kid can do work. I ran into him and his family down in Moab a few weeks ago (accidentally ran Hell's Revenge together)
Not only is their work clean, but they are really great people too. I thought I recognized those seat covers too. Great build and fab work on that console.
Not only is their work clean, but they are really great people too. I thought I recognized those seat covers too. Great build and fab work on that console.
- Thread starter
- #75
Thanks for the kind words! It was great meeting you guys as well and following you around on Hell's Revenge. I dont think I'll ever forget running that trail as it was such a great time!
VERY nice work! It is nice to see people still posses the skill and aptitude to build things of this quality! A++++