- Thread starter
- #41
Amps are going under the seat.
Painting with a wrinkle black finish paint. It almost looks like a textured powder coat. If all local options fail, I will be looking at ordering from McMaster.
Center Console Build w/ 4 Cupholders!
- Thread starter SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr
- Start date
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Amps are going under the seat.
Painting with a wrinkle black finish paint. It almost looks like a textured powder coat. If all local options fail, I will be looking at ordering from McMaster.
- Thread starter
- #43
Well it's finished and installed!! Hitting the road tomorrow early for Colorado! I had to barrow the pad off of my Dad's Tuffy and put it on sideways until I can get one made. I also didn't install the 12v rear outlet stuff, and I still don't know what to do about the rear dual cupholders. I tried tracking one down that was really cool, but the company had gone out of business.
Full parking brake operation with ease and no interference from the CB hanging.
I also need to make the phone holder, but didn't have time.
My old CB radio next to the new one....
Switch wiring nice and labeled.
Full parking brake operation with ease and no interference from the CB hanging.
I also need to make the phone holder, but didn't have time.
My old CB radio next to the new one....
Switch wiring nice and labeled.
I want one!! Nice work!
Excellent!
@SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr Nice work -it looks awesome! It's obvious you've put a lot of thought, time and effort into this Curious on the dual USB with the voltmeter: let me know how it works with the iPhone. I was looking at that same unit on Amazon two weeks ago, but held off till someone could confirm that it charges the iPhone. Several other USB outlets I have purchased do NOT charge my iPhone, so now I'm suspicious...
I used the sherman tank idea with an ammo can. Yours looks incredible. The back of the console might benefit from the tuffy cup holder. They make them in all sorts of colors and with a zero and fifteen degree cant. I put mine low enough so the center row can fold up without interference. In addition, it is high enough that toes can fit under it
Yes, my truck is a mess.
Yes, my truck is a mess.
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Nice really nice. What's happening on the inside?
- Thread starter
- #51
Thanks for the heads up on some USBs not charging apple devices. I'll test it out before I cut out holes and install it.
Yeah I've looked at the Tuffy ones, but for the price I might as well make my own. I'm still looking at other options.
On the inside I welded on some tabs with nuts welded on the back side. Then a plate bolts to that using some small 10mm bolts. That separates the storage compartment from all the wiring.
I was thinking about making another level inside of it to store things, but the little slanted back spot above the rear heater holds a lot of the small stuff and then I have plenty of space for camera bags and stuff on the inside.
Niiiiiiiccccceeeee!
- Thread starter
- #53
I feel as though I have seen just about every cup holder design on Amazon/eBay, but none seem to fit quite right.
I have one of these on the back of my old console and I am looking for something that folds out like this but has two cupholders.
Another more usable option might be this table, but feel it's also kind of not quite right. It is also a little bit big.
Anyways, right now I have the console out, and I put in the new sub amp after the first one was defective. I started looking at test mounting my tweeters in the location pictured below.
I would either make pods to angle them slightly on the factory plastic pieces or bend up some metal replacements; however, my original idea of using the old front door speaker wires to power the tweeters might not work out. I plugged them in to test them, but they are really loud and overpowering the rest of the system. They seem to be trying to play all frequencies. I adjusted the front crossover on my headunit to no avail.
I talked to Kicker about my KX400.4 and they mentioned something about a filter for tweeters on the amp, but I'm not really sure what they meant by that
.
This is like a foreign language to me.
Now I'm left wondering if I should wire them in to the door speakers or forgo the tweeters all together? They definitely raise the sound stage and would be really nice if they weren't so overpoweringly loud.
I have one of these on the back of my old console and I am looking for something that folds out like this but has two cupholders.
Another more usable option might be this table, but feel it's also kind of not quite right. It is also a little bit big.
Anyways, right now I have the console out, and I put in the new sub amp after the first one was defective. I started looking at test mounting my tweeters in the location pictured below.
I would either make pods to angle them slightly on the factory plastic pieces or bend up some metal replacements; however, my original idea of using the old front door speaker wires to power the tweeters might not work out. I plugged them in to test them, but they are really loud and overpowering the rest of the system. They seem to be trying to play all frequencies. I adjusted the front crossover on my headunit to no avail.
I talked to Kicker about my KX400.4 and they mentioned something about a filter for tweeters on the amp, but I'm not really sure what they meant by that
.
This is like a foreign language to me.
Now I'm left wondering if I should wire them in to the door speakers or forgo the tweeters all together? They definitely raise the sound stage and would be really nice if they weren't so overpoweringly loud.
- Thread starter
- #54
Edit:
I just tested the USB/voltmeter/12v outlet and it DOES charge my iPhone.
Lights it up and charges my iPhone. Still not how I want it because I plan to use that to power my cb so I don't have a wire across my dash interfering with my GPS and radar wires.
The read out on the voltmeter is also red instead of the blue depicted when I purchased it. Looks like either way it will get returned.
Edit: It appears the seller on Amazon who sold me this product is gone. Paid $18 and now they can be had for $11. Great...
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The USB interface normally runs on a 1 amp and the second one at 2 amp. For your iPhone you need to use the 2 amp port. Did you try both ports?
The amp you need to switch to high pass HP for your tweeters and the reduce your gain to acceptable volume. Also adjust the frequency range to drop the lower frequencies.
Hope this helps.
The amp you need to switch to high pass HP for your tweeters and the reduce your gain to acceptable volume. Also adjust the frequency range to drop the lower frequencies.
Hope this helps.
- Thread starter
- #56
Thanks,
@Schmutz I tried both ports on the USB to no avail, but after waiting several hours, I tried my friend's Galaxy and it worked. Tried my iPhone after trying his Galaxy on both ports and they both worked. Strange.
@SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr thanks for taking the time to experiment with that. I appreciate the feedback. BTW what model iPhone do you have?
- Thread starter
- #58
I have an iPhone 6. That's what I tested it on. I also have an old iPhone 5 I use for music. I would assume the older ones work if the 6 works.
I also put the 12v outlet down on the side. It comes out in front of the parking brake and will be a great place to plug my cb in.
- Thread starter
- #59
Well it's finished again. I ended up completely repainting it with VHT wrinkle black to fix some scratches I made while the paint was still curing on the last one. I also drilled out the holes for the rear heater vent, installed the digital voltmeter, dual USB outlet, and 12v outlet. Last two things I need to get for it is a pad and a Wit's End console organizer from @NLXTACY
Looking down at the parking brake. I put a 12v outlet in the console that resides just below the parking brake handle. Perfect place to plug in my cb.
Looking down at the parking brake. I put a 12v outlet in the console that resides just below the parking brake handle. Perfect place to plug in my cb.
really nice build! good work.