CDL inoperable.

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PhillyLumpLump

Joined
May 20, 2017
Threads
2
Messages
14
Location
Arlington va
So been dealing with this issue for a while. 98 lc100 btw. Anyway I've forced it open by applying voltage...it was stuck in lock. Anyway I've pulled it out and everything Is copasetic on the unit it self. No binding and no broken parts.

I'm thinking it's electrical. Now when I push the button the relay pops and so I know that is working. I can not get a read on the harness. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this? The faq link is dead for the free version
 
Light works and sensor works. I have it removed and trying to get it to rub it doesn't work. Just scored huge from my local Toyota dealership.

Now I will trouble shoot the issues properly

20170602_172214.webp
 
Any luck?
 
SO motor spec 0.3 to 100 ohm, pins 1 & 5. Pin 4 common of switch, to 2 & 3. This tells the control relay to turn off at end of stroke.
 

Attachments

Maybe someone can also help with my CDL issue, that's has more electronics expexperience than me.

I am not getting power to the CDL relay I've checked all associated fuses.

no matter what I do (put in low range, or press the cdl button) the only pin that has 12v is pin 7 on the harness that plugs the cdl relay. It has constant power with the key on the run position but does not switch when in 4L or cdl button pressed.
 
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Reading the diagram, the center diff lock control relay has 3 inputs and 5 outputs if you have VSC (6 outputs if you don't have VSC)
 
Pin seven is power from the low range detection switch, you also need power on pin 3 from the 20A diff fuse.
If pin seven has permanent power the detent ball in the switch is probably stuck.
But this is a diagram for a 2002 model, there was a change at 8/2002, the power layout possibly changed and the fuse could be different, I don't have my 2003 diagram handy. Check the 100 series stickies at the top of the pages and see if there are links to a manual, I think there is a 2004 one kicking around the net somewhere.
 
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100 TD said:
Pin seven is power from the low range detection switch, you also need power on pin 3 from the 20A diff fuse.
If pin seven has permanent power the detent ball in the switch is probably stuck.
But this is a diagram for a 2002 model, there was a change at 8/2002, the power layout possibly changed and the fuse could be different, I don't have my 2003 diagram handy. Check the 100 series stickies at the top of the pages and see if there are links to a manual, I think there is a 2004 one kicking around the net somewhere.
Click to expand...

I rechecked the wiring today. i was wrong about pin #7, its actually pin #3 on the harness that connects to the relay on that diagram up top that says relay side. That is the only pin that has voltage. The voltage is constant Truck in 4L, 4H, Diff button pressed on/pressed off. No other pins have voltage
 
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Just had a look at all my diagrams I have on hand and they are all pinned the same, including 2004 lhd. So perhaps some discrepancy in numbering at the relay. We are talking the black "Transmission Relay"?
I think you are reading the pictured connector in reverse, pin 3 will have 12 volts on it all the time.
 
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I am referring to the harness that connects into the black transmission relay. If I use that above image of the relay the wiring harness its the 3rd pin over from the left with the tab facing up has constant power with the key on.
 
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If you have power to pin 3, check you have ground to pin 2. Do the other checks as specified in the preceding pages. for the actuator to switch you also need power from the 15A gauge fuse which powers the low range detection switch to automatically lock the diff when low ramge is selected, it also powers the CDL lock switch to lock it in high range. After ensuring fuses are ok, park your vehicle in a closed quiet garage, IGN on, operate the CDL switch and listen for the transmission relay to click. If it clicks and you do not hear the CDL motor operate, I suspect you may have a problem with the CDL motor or the CDL switch contained in the motor.
 
I haven't had a look at that connector, but it says "relay side", so those numbers are of the relay, not the wiring harness, which is a mirror image of that.
 
With a magnifying glass the wiring connector "should" have at least one number on it, designating the first pin, if not more.
 
In the connector you will also have one pin with no wire, pin 8, so pin 3 will be on the same side.
 
Also, the wiring color should match the pin numbers exactly, W/b, White with black stripe is ALWAYS ground (in your cruiser).
 
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