Can’t get long front axle back in... (1 Viewer)

[smittycrusher]

...I feel so defeated. I don’t think I am a hack wrench. I just did the rears and front passenger side without issue. I am swapping over RCV axles and 3/4 way done. While I had the hub torn torn down, I took advantage of the extra space and swapped in my rebuilt steering box (with 105 sector shaft and pitman arm). I also replaced high/low pressure hoses while the box was out (so much easier to replace these hoses with the box out). I say all this to say, I don’t think I am out of my skill set trying to put an axle back in. I just can’t get it to go in the diff. I am making sure the flat spot is up top and spent 30 mins trying to get it in. I finally gave up for the night as I was getting frustrated. At least I did get the box done today, but should have accomplished more.

Any tips I should try?

 

[Pin_Head]

The secret is that you have to lift the inside end of the axle up about 1/4 inch to get it in. Use a large screw driver to gently pry the top of the birfield flat downward using the seal as a fulcrum to raise the inside end and slide it in. You might have to turn it slightly to get the splines to engage.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Yep...the long driver side is always more of a challenge since you have more weight in the shaft to pick up just ht right amount to engage the carrier. You have to use the seal as a pivot point...just be gentle on it...don't want that sucker leaking after you put it all back together.

 

[Kernal]

Watch Otramm do it at 36 minutes into this video:

 

[Shipwreck]

Do you still have the positioning ring in place on the inside of the axle tube? It sits just a few inches inside of the seal and is used to protect the axle seal as you apply leverage as mentioned above. It is easily knocked loose as it is just a press fit.

 

[smittycrusher]

Do you still have the positioning ring in place on the inside of the axle tube? It sits just a few inches inside of the seal and is used to protect the axle seal as you apply leverage as mentioned above. It is easily knocked loose as it is just a press fit.

I will have to check for that ring. I had totally forgotten about it.

I will try it again later today as I hope I just needed to walk a way from it for a bit. I watched OTRAM’s video and kept trying to replicate his action without any success. Hopefully I was just tired and over it and today will be a new day.

Thank you everyone for your comments.

 

[smittycrusher]

I am so frustrated with this truck right now and ready to give it away! I can’t even have it towed to a shop since I can’t get the wheel on as is. I just spent another hour trying to get the axle in and nothing. It feels like insanity at this point as I just keep doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result.

I do have the positioning ring right where it is supposed to be. Using it as a fulcrum I have no problem getting the axle to where it should be going. I used a flashlight and seem to be able to see the carrier where it should be without obstruction. Is there anything in the diff that could be in the way? It just keeps hitting something and will not go in. I have OEM lockers and the front diff is locked. The short shaft went in on first try when I did it.

I can feel where it seems to hit the carrier and get a little snug. I then slightly turn the birf to try and get the splines engaged and it never works. I can feel like the splines are touching the carrier splines, but that just may be wishful thinking. Is there anything else I should be doing. I have rotated the flat spots to every possible position on a clock (after I spent the first hour and a half at 12 and 6). I am so over this.

 

[mingles]

Not that it is any real help, but just be aware that there are MUD 80 members worldwide that are pulling for you in hopes that your next post will be the "SUCCESS" one .

You WILL overcome this!

 

[jonheld]

The front diff does not have to be locked to get the axle back in. That only applies to the rear with OEM lockers.

 

[smittycrusher]

The front diff does not have to be locked to get the axle back in. That only applies to the rear with OEM lockers.

So should I unlock it? I have always locked it before when doing this. Will unlocking it help?

 

[Shipwreck]

Yes, try unlocking it and put the tcase in neutral. If you have a second person to help, have them slowly wiggle the driveshaft as you leverage the shaft into position.
Take a break if you get frustrated and come back at it when you are not stressed!

 

[Pin_Head]

Check that the splines at the end are not deformed and then push a little harder.

 

[smittycrusher]

Got it in within 30 seconds of unlocking the diff. It is so weird as I have always locked the front for this. I think most of the write-ups I have read also say to lock the front. Oh well, I guess I will keep the truck now. . Maybe this thread will help someone else down the road.

 

[smittycrusher]

Thank you to everyone that took their time to offer suggestions. This place is a giant help for me...yet again.

 

[ALX4X4]

ive had to back off the steering arm bolts assuming your hub is on it worked blowed if i know why
glad you got it sorted