Canman’s LX450 resurrection

[canman]

Snapped one of the studs for the rear exh tailpipe isolator. Surprised that they used such small hardware to support the tailpipe, but I guess it works. Will need to weld in something. I really want to address the rust on all these parts when I come across them, but I know if I do, I’ll never get to the big issues.

 

[canman]

Best I could do with a sprained thumb. Got it back installed using all SS hardware. Cut of the “extra” hanger brkt. Always bothered me a bit since it was installed. I think it’s not leaking any longer at the joint between the tailpipe and muffler, but need a few heat cycles so I can verify any leaks and tighten up the bolts/nuts. The pinion seal seems to be working as well since there are no more drips. Scratch a few more things of the very long list of things to do.

 

[canman]

Added another jerry can of fuel and started her up to see if the needle moved. Nope, but low fuel light was no longer on. Took it out for a spin and gauge moved again as soon as I got on the road. Low fuel light still flickers on thd bumpy gravel back roads to my place. Finally got the headunit to pair with my iPhone, but prior sent an email to Kenwood/JVC tech support. Threw a code P0125 which was “normal”, but thought fixing the exh leak might solve that. Can’t delete the code with Autel which is permenantly connected with the OBD2 port, but that was “normal” as well sometimes.

 

[canman]

Going to see if I can thread the “professional” splice a stereo shop made last year using a popsicle stick for the antenna cable to the back of the head unit. Going to pull it apart first though to get my peepers a look see to see if I can make morer betterer. Lol!

 

[canman]

Didn’t get to the antenna cable last night. Can’t believe I paid CAN$100 for this. Cleaned things up. Got to check the Kenwood manual as IIRC there are two antenna connectors on the back. I think IIRC there are two antenna cables on the LX, as there is an antenna built into the rear liftgate glass. Need to make sure I get them in the right connectors if it matters.

 

[Malleus]

The antenna cable routing is unforgivable. I can't think of anything, even the hood release cable, that's that difficult, for no apparent reason.

 

[BILT4ME]

Meanwhile, all the people in CA and TX are freaking out about how you could possibly WANT to work on a rusty truck such as this.


Why did you smear Bondo on the fuel tank strap? It does not help with strength, and it does not help with paint adhesion, especially with the blasting you had done.

The pitting is going to be there, regardless. I'm just trying to understand the thought process there. If it's strictly for your peace of mind to make it look better, that's an acceptable answer. Just seems like unnecessary work.

 

[canman]

Meanwhile, all the people in CA and TX are freaking out about how you could possibly WANT to work on a rusty truck such as this.


Why did you smear Bondo on the fuel tank strap? It does not help with strength, and it does not help with paint adhesion, especially with the blasting you had done.

The pitting is going to be there, regardless. I'm just trying to understand the thought process there. If it's strictly for your peace of mind to make it look better, that's an acceptable answer. Just seems like unnecessary work.

Haha! We work with what we got. Tried selling it the last 2 yrs. Started at CAN$20K then eventually went down to CAN$9K and no takers. I did have one guy in the first year I tried selling saying he would give me $9K, but he wanted me to remove ALL the non-factory stuff and reinstall things like the factory running boards. Said no. I’m going to fix a few more things and list it again. The rust is bad, but it doesn’t scare me too much as in some perverse way, I like metal working. I see it as an art. As far as the bondo on the straps it really just filled in the pitting. I didn’t want crap getting caught up in the pitting. In the end I could have made new straps, but I didn’t have the correct metal gauge lying around. There are a couple of 80 series listed on kijiji auto here “locally” for around CAN$20K. I didn’t read up on them for condition. Once I get the front DS fender installed, and the missing PS rear quarter plastic pc, it will actually look presentable for sale.

 

[canman]

The other end of the antenna cable after removing the tape. I’m pissed at the piss poor workmanship. Tried the radio and reception did not seem that great. So, pulled thd headunit back out, and redid the shield wires, and put a pc of heat shrink where the tape was. Seems a bit better, but reception I think is still not ideal, but truck is still in garage. Will take it for a spin and see if it is any better on the road with the antenna fully extended.

Going to install this clip I had lying around as I could see the antenna extension harness is rubbing on the firewall.

 

[Malleus]

You have to love those "professional" stereo installers...

 

[canman]

So, back home after the spin, and antenna is not working as it should. Can’t pick up one of my fav stations at all. Will look at the connection at the antenna assy later or tomorrow. Need a break from this thing.

 

[canman]

The antenna cable routing is unforgivable. I can't think of anything, even the hood release cable, that's that difficult, for no apparent reason.

I did replace my hood cable. I don’t recall the routing being too bad, but do recall lots of cursing with trying to get the one end onto the lever and get it all reinstalled. On the antenna cable you are 1000% correct. IIRC there is no way to remove it, and cutting it was the only way.

 

[Malleus]

You actually can remove it without damaging it, but you have to have the patience of Job; it's routed behind the A/C and blower.

...and having most of the dash out helps, too.

 

[canman]

You actually can remove it without damaging it, but you have to have the patience of Job; it's routed behind the A/C and blower.

...and having most of the dash out helps, too.

Believe or not I’ve had the entire dash pulled to repair some rust on the cowling. That is a job I would never ever want to do again. Was surprised I was able to actually put it all back together.

 

[canman]

Took her out for a 2.5 hr ride in the back country around my place. Low fuel light behaves bizzarly. Comes on after a while then goes back out, but flickers a lot in between. Definitely influenced by bumps in the road. Still have an exh leak somewhere which threw a stubborn P0125 that took a long time to eventually clear and a P0141 that cleared easily.

 

[BILT4ME]

Took her out for a 2.5 hr ride in the back country around my place. Low fuel light behaves bizzarly. Comes on after a while then goes back out, but flickers a lot in between. Definitely influenced by bumps in the road. Still have an exh leak somewhere which threw a stubborn P0125 that took a long time to eventually clear and a P0141 that cleared easily.

Does the new tank have the sump in it to reduce the sloshing of fuel throughout the tank?

The OEM one has a nice sump around the fuel pump that keeps fuel near it and reduces the sloshing effect on the float and low level sensor.

 

[canman]

Does the new tank have the sump in it to reduce the sloshing of fuel throughout the tank?

The OEM one has a nice sump around the fuel pump that keeps fuel near it and reduces the sloshing effect on the float and low level sensor.

Yes, there are plates around the sump but I’m wondering if something got stuck or moved when I moved the tank up on one end to glue on the rubber straps. It’s nit x big deal, just at little annoying. It’s got to be some type of electrical issue, but it’s not with the connector. Got to read up on how the sensor works and maybe call LRA.

 

[canman]

Been a while. Got sidetracked with sorting out lots of stuff with the daily drivers and my recent adventure with a no-start/dead electrical with the LX. That odyssey can be read here:

No start - weird electrical problem

A few weeks back I tried to start my 97 LX. Has dual batteries and both were dead after the vehicle had been sitting for a few weeks. Tried charging them and still nothing. So, tried jump starting it. Still no start (just clicking). Should mention at this point, I had sufficient power to operate...

forum.ih8mud.com

Going to start again on finishing the front DS fender. Need to first find all the bits I purchased last year to attach the fender flare and maybe even way back as I think I came across some parts last week in my parts stash.

 

[canman]

So, there are no less than qty 10 attachment points for the plastic fender flare to the fender. Of these, there seem to be qty 4 different types of clips.
These are grouped as follows:

POS #1: QTY 1 - Grommet Screw, 90189-06196

POS #2,3,5: QTY 3 - Bolt, 53858-60050

POS #4: QTY 1 - Bolt, Wheel Opening Set, 53858-60030

NOTE: This item is “identical” to those used in POSs #2,3, and 5, but the stud is longer. The “clip” portion also has thicker metal. These could actually be for the flare over my rear wheel well which I believe I also ordered at the same time as it was knocked off at one point a long time ago. Also, the order date in some of these clips goes back to 2016! D’oh!

POS #6,8,9: QTY 3 - Clip, 90467-11103

POS #7: QTY 1 - ?

There are two pcs. A pin and a plug. The plug is yellow and different from anything else. I do not have a new plug that looks like it. The pin is white and is likely: Pin, 90249-06132 which is also white. I have a new pin which is similar but is yellow in colour, and more robust at the base: Pin, 90249-06160.

POS #10: QTY 1 - ?

I do have a new plug that looks like it. The plug is white and is similar to 90189-06196 which is black.

Having said all that, I’m sure any differences probably don’t matter that much, but I would like to double check. I should also point out the I had the whole front end replaced after hitting a tree, so there is the possibility that they used whatever when rebuilding it, but they did use all new Toyota parts at the time.

 

[canman]

Noticed I hadn’t posted pics of POS #10.