Cam/Crank Seal Wisdom?

Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
68
Location
Alaska
Getting ready to do my second timing belt job and planning on replacing the cam and crank seals. They aren't leaking, but I think it's prudent preventative maintenance.

Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on installing the seals?

Is a large socket and a hammer the right way to get them seated?

Can they be seated too deep?

Is it a good idea to use a silicone sealant around the outer face?
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2016
Messages
1,268
Location
Odessa/Midland TX
How many miles in the truck?
Take few pictures of how deep the seal is located.

If you got VVTi then doing the cam seals is not easy. thankfully I got non-VVTi engine.

I always make a small hole right in the middle of the oil seal and then drive small screwdriver bolt making sure it is NOT touching the cam/crank or the outer housing. Then pull the bolt out to remove the seal.

Use OEM seal. Apply some grease onto the inside oil seal lip and simply drive it. No need to apply any sealers to the outside surface.
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
68
Location
Alaska
Not a VVTi. Just looking for a testimonial on how best to seat the seal(s). I can get them out (and I have OEM on hand), but want to make sure I get the seat correctly so they don't leak.

Interesting timing on this post, as someone just earlier stated that the RS cam seal is leaking after their DIY TB job (which included new cam seals). Trying to avoid that. Maybe it's best to leave the originals alone forever? Do they ever fail?
 

AimCOtaco

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Joined
Aug 2, 2010
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Longmont CO
It was awhile ago that I was in there and I remember removal was the job, installation was a snap. IIRC they were not tight fitting on install and bottom into their seat so not much to worry on depth of insertion.. again it was awhile ago but I think that is accurate. I know I used the screw method to remove them and it was simple.
 
Joined
Oct 27, 2014
Messages
1,951
Location
Florida
I tried a seal puller but didn't work very well for me. I ended up using a paint can opener and it worked perfect. Take great care not to scratch the surface when pulling them out.

As others mentioned take a few pics. Wish I had because I think I rolled my PS seal. It leaked for a while but I noticed yesterday my undercarriage is drying up.

Good luck, be patient, take your time. There is a great YouTube video of a guy changing it on a ls350 I think but motor is same 2uz.
 

duggy

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Aug 15, 2011
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2,623
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Houston, Texas
I drive a small phillips head wood screw into seal (very carefully and slowly) and then use a pair of pliers with a hammer to bang it out from the opposite side. This has worked well in the last timing belt jobs I've done.

To drive it in, I made a tool from old crush sleeves of front differentials and bearing housings. This seats on the lip of the seal very well and I drive it in until it feels it's at home. I do take care to put grease around the inner spring so it doesn't pop out while I'm driving it in.
 

Porter

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Joined
Mar 31, 2005
Messages
314
Location
Raleigh, North Carolina
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Need some assistance tonight. I'm in the process of replacing cam seals. Driver side has a sensor that needs removing. I've unbolted it, attempted to remove the mounted sensor so I can then pull the backing plate to access seal. It won't budge. I can't locate any specifics in FSM on how to do this, don't want to break anything. Thanks for any direction you can provide.
 

Porter

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Joined
Mar 31, 2005
Messages
314
Location
Raleigh, North Carolina
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Here’s more pics- drilled small pilot hole on opposite sides of seal, inserted sheet metal screws (do not use self tapping). Used small pry bar and block of wood, not much force needed. Barely had to protrude through the seal with screws – there is probably a quarter of an inch of space.

Inserting new seal, it mounts exactly flush with collar- of course examine this before you pull the old seals.

97A30A94-2EA6-4DD7-BECE-872C7D40D324.jpeg
 
Joined
Aug 15, 2016
Messages
1,366
Location
Orlando, FL
To install the crank seal, I got a piece of PVC from Lowe's that matched the diameter of the seal, and a matching PVC end cap for it. I then drilled a centered hole the same size as the crank bolt in the end cap. Then I just used the crank bolt to seat the crank seal with my home-made PVC tool. Just make sure that you mark the end of the crank with a dab of white paint so you can put it back in time if it moves (Not a big deal if it moves, just re-set to the timing marks and go)
 
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