Calling upon the SM465 collective (1 Viewer)

Cdaniel

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Taking down my SM465 for some rework during the Glucosamine project. The main complaint with it is leaking all over the clutch and a very resistant shift from 3-2.

It's been many a moon since I've been inside a manual tranny, but it's slowly coming back. Looks like I found the culprit for the sticky shifty. The dogs on 2nd are not too charp! And the synchro looks a little mushed over between the teeth (see pic with the arrow point to the mush). Other pics of 3rd and 4th in next post for comparison.

The question to the collective is:
Will a new synchro and some tooth dressing with a file make it workable? Or would you replace the gear?

I do have another tranny for parts that may have usable pieces. Haven't ever cracked the lid on it though.
2nd-a.jpg
2nd-b.jpg
2nd-c.jpg
 

Cdaniel

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3rd gear/4th gear
3rd.jpg
4thgear.jpg
 

Cdaniel

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Also... The wear material on the shift forks. 3-4 isn't too bad but the 1st gear side of 1-2 is mostly gone. I think I heard a legend once that there were new "tips" to be had for these. It looks like the forks were dipped into the wear material.

Suggestions anyone?
shifter1.jpg
shifter2.jpg
 
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I don't know enough about that type of problem to make a guess. I would call either Tourist Transmission in SLC or Anaheim Gear. They have seen lots of them.
 

My4x4FJ40

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You can get a way with putting a synchro and a shift fork in, I can bet the PO drove with his hand on the shifter kipping constant pressure on the shift fork and causing premature failure. This is just my thoughts of course. I hope this helps.

lee
 

Cdaniel

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New fork is the only answer doe that one eh?
Wish there was a way to replace the plastic.

You're suspicion about the cause is probably right on the money. I was admonished long ago by some old gear head to keep my hands off the shifter unless I was changing gears.

You can get a way with putting a synchro and a shift fork in, I can bet the PO drove with his hand on the shifter kipping constant pressure on the shift fork and causing premature failure. This is just my thoughts of course. I hope this helps.

lee
 

Cdaniel

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I think I found my leak onto the clutch.:mad:
I hope my parts tranny has a good input shaft
inputshaft.jpg
 

My4x4FJ40

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I would check the pilot bearing for wear, to me that does not look like a torque crack, but a support crack? [bearings] i hope this helps

lee
 

Cdaniel

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I would check the pilot bearing for wear, to me that does not look like a torque crack, but a support crack? [bearings] i hope this helps

lee
The engine is on the stand at the moment, so I can't get a good look at the pilot bearing. It will be replaced as a matter of SOP anyhow.

I don't think I would describe that flaw as a crack. Up close it looks more like someone whacked it with a chisel:confused:

Weird. This tranny came from a fairly low mile 71 2wd Blazer. 2nd owner bought from the "little ol lady" and pulled it to put in an auto. But who knows what abuses it suffered?
 

Cdaniel

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More discoveries

Tore apart the parts donor today. It actually looks better inside. It's a later model 4wd unit that was allegedly "rebuilt". The sealing surface on the input gear is better, but still a little pitted.

What say you guys, run it hoping a new seal lands somewhere else? Get a new one? Is there a speedy sleeve for this?
input2.jpg
input1.jpg
 

Cdaniel

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Another problem

The counter shaft gear drive, known as a "clutch gear" in the manual. appears to be separated from it's "clutch". I'm not familiar with this design, but I think those rubber ears should be attached.

My parts doner has a different design. And it appears to have the spacer upgrade. I think I'll be swapping in this entire assembly as the gears look better too.
clutchgear.jpg
clutchshaft.jpg
 

Cdaniel

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Counter shaft assemblies. Older one on the top/left.
counter1.jpg
counter2.jpg
 
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I think that it is a good idea to keep gears as a set if possible because they have worn in together. Mixing used gears may cause some noise.
 

Cdaniel

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True that. Although noise in this open top beast isn't much of a concern. But abnormal wear.....

Swapping out all of the gears may would be the right thing to do.
More like swapping the main shafts in the end :p
 

Cdaniel

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in the counter shaft assemblies pictures, can you point arrows to the function of the different gears please? I'm learning...
Don't have may pic markup tool handy at the moment, but from left to right:
1st gear
Reverse
2nd gear
3rd gear
Counter shaft drive gear.

(I think, I hope I pass the test:D)

Here's a breakdown of parts from Novak
Parts for the SM465 Transmission

 

Cdaniel

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Shaweeet! Great to have a neighbor with a lathe and other assorted machinery. Collected on some favor trading and got my input shaft sealing surface nice an shiney:bounce:

Main shaft extracted from the older trans.

Clean and ready for assembly with components from my newer donor.

Case parts and bell housing dropped at the strippers today. Time to order a rebuild kit, now that I think the surprises are over and I know what I need.
inputclean.jpg
diassemble.jpg
mainready.jpg
 

Cdaniel

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I'm about to put the order in for a rebuild kit.
Anaheim Gear?
Or
Novak?
Similar pricing.
or
Suggestions.....
 
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The last time I bought a rebuild kit, Tourist transmission was significantly cheaper than Novak. Don't know about Anaheim gear prices, but I like to use local vendors and they are about 20 minutes from me. Prices change, so maybe Novak isn't as proud of their parts as they used to be.
 

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