Busted! Radiator has split at the seams.... pics

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Land Speeder

Land Speeder

InstaH8R
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I just flushed my radiator 2 days ago, as usual used Toyota red, opened up the engine block and the radiator peck cock... as usual.
Today after leaving work, stop at the bank after only driving for 5 minutes and I see water leaking... uh oh, I hope that's AC lines dripping.... NO! it's toyota red/water mix!!!!!!!!! And it's not over heating, at all...

Great! Over The Mountain Tour is this weekend and now this appears to be the second event in a row I'll miss due to mechanical issues.

How do I get up and going the fastest? Can I patch this? Did flushing the radiator 2 days ago do this?

edit: Oh yeah... that's a new upper hose and radiator cap you see
radiator busted 1.webp
radiator busted 2.webp
 
Land Speeder said:
How do I get up and going the fastest? Can I patch this? Did flushing the radiator 2 days ago do this?
Click to expand...

Call Cdan and have him overnight you a new radiator. You will pay for it in shipping, but you can have that thing in then Thursday evening.
 
Looks like it was leaking from the cap - not at the seam!!!

Replace the cap first & go on the trip.
 
sjcruiser said:
Looks like it was leaking from the cap - not at the seam!!!

Replace the cap first & go on the trip.
Click to expand...

It's a new cap.... as new as the flush. it's bubbling at the seam... these pics are after it cooled off enough to see the crack. it's a crack, man do i wish it was only the cap....
 
I've thought about that... think JB would work?
trust it enough for a 4 hour drive to Tellico and then a weekend of wheelin? I guess that's a question I have to answer huh.
 
it's just the top there. jb weld it and bring some extra water to keep an eye on it.
I had a honda leaking from the seam all the way across the top and it was fine. just let it cool, clean it up and plug it. enjoy your trip!
 
That upper tank is plastic. If you cleaned it well and it was the only source of leakage a good plastic bonding agent should work (epoxy? no idea...).

I can always have my local dealer see if they can stock a radiator and if it goes you will have it in ATL :).
 
DanKunz said:
That upper tank is plastic. If you cleaned it well and it was the only source of leakage a good plastic bonding agent should work (epoxy? no idea...).

I can always have my local dealer see if they can stock a radiator and if it goes you will have it in ATL :).
Click to expand...


I'm going to try to patch it with JB tonight and let it sit for 24 hours...
Dan I was hoping to follow you up slick rock.... think my Scion tC will make it? I'm still coming.

New rad is NOT in the budget right now. And I've stopped using credit cards for the cruiser.... gets me in trouble.
 
I can pull your scion tc up slickrock, just hook up a strap :)

Make sure you clean it really well and rough it up good to get that JB in all the nooks and crannies.
 
just went to the radiator shop a couple weeks ago to get a new radiator for mine. Not too expensive and I had it that afternoon!
Replace it, it will be one last thng to worry about at Tellico.
 
Oh yeah...I got a replacement radiator for my 3FE from 1-800 Radiators.com and it held water and ran great. I think it was $100 or so and lifetime warranty.

I was in a similar situation and went cheap....aside from me breaking the first one with the wrong fan shroud bolt in the wrong hole (CRACK!) it was perfect.
 
Land Speeder said:
How do I get up and going the fastest? Can I patch this? Did flushing the radiator 2 days ago do this?

edit: Oh yeah... that's a new upper hose and radiator cap you see
Click to expand...

While the classic troubleshooting strategy is to ask what last changed, it may be more age of the rad, and maybe the cap is actually working, where the old cap may have vented at a lower pressure into the overflow?

No matter.

*Hijack for a question* Isn't the rad in an LC of this vintage sposda be the "vastly superior" CuBrass brazed tanks version, not Al and plastic tanks?

Personally, follow the advices you're reading, and find some way to replace it. Imagine if you splooge a substantial quantity of JB Weld onto the tank, it holds, but gives out, out there on the road. Then what? More JB, to weld the weld that didn't hold? What if it's out on the trail? :frown:

Replace the rad. If it's aged, it's done good over it's lifetime.

My cautious, dare I say CONSERVATIVE :mad: , $0.02.

Good luck. I know it's not what you want to read/hear, but err on the side of caution, and make the trip somehow, where you know you'll be able to return under your own vehicular motivation. ;)
 
terryjmatthew said:
Check your text messages, honky!
Click to expand...

No need in name callin'... cracka

DanKunz said:
performance radiator has a warehouse on your way to Tellico Eric....Marietta.
Click to expand...

I'll check'em out since I've heard good things about them, thanks Dan and gotmud and truckasaurus.
Like I told Dan on the phone... I'm going no matter what, just may need to drive the "too fast too furious" tC. I know the advice you give is like the waitress telling me there's no more spicy tuna roll on the sushi buffet... it's not what I want to hear.

terryjmatthew may come through with a rad for me locally in the AM though, until then he's across the street from my house all bellied up to the bar.

I've put some JB on the crack for now and will not touch it until tomorrow evening. We'll see.
 
Truckasaurus said:
*Hijack for a question* Isn't the rad in an LC of this vintage sposda be the "vastly superior" CuBrass brazed tanks version, not Al and plastic tanks?
Click to expand...

Nope. Both 93-94 and 95-97 have plastic tanks. It's just brass vs. aluminum and # of rows.
 
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