bump, bump, bump it up.... (1 Viewer)

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or Offroad....

Just got back from the shipping place picking up my new BOIR bolt-on rear bumper. Super stoked! This thing is stout! Like many have noted, the craftsmanship and quality are amazing! I will get some picks of the parts and the build and post them here as I do it. Probably wont get to it until Sunday though... I am planing to rebuild both front CV's tomorrow. Busy weekend! But... got to get everything ready for Moab. Now, I just have to find a good flat place to work on the CV's tomorrow.

Wooo Hooo!:beer:
 
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I dont know about that.... But I will totally let you build one CV axle while I do the other.... LOL!
 
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So, I did the driver side CV axle in the morning. For my first time it was surprisingly easy. I definately took my time and learned somethings for my next time. Total for the one side was about 2 1/2 hours and that was just installing a new OEM CV not rebuilding. That included having to bleed the brakes. I was initially planning to rebuild the one I pulled and install that one on the passenger side so both were "new". But the drivers side I pulled not only needed to be rebuilt but the exposed surfaces were rusted and needed to be cleaned up and repainted. So, after the drivers side was done I decided the excitement was too much and moved on to the bumper. I started pulling the rear Tupperware and rear trailer hitch. The welded nut zert (sp.?) for the reciever hitch that is closet to the front came loose and took me forever to get out. after I finally got that out, I started cleaning up the rust and getting ready for the bumper install.

If you are interested in the bolt on version of the BOIR rear bumper there is something to note. If you want it to have the receiver hitch for towing, then you will need to cut out an approximately 3" square section of the rear cross member. So, technically it isn't a true bolt on solution... yet. I am sure as he refines the product he will eventually get there. I just felt this was worth noting... and Mike did let me know before we got here this would need to happen. So, I was prepared and new it was going to need to happen. This isn't a knock... just letting people who are interested know what needs to happen.

Tomorrow I plan to finish cutting out the notch and install the bumper. Pics still let to come.

LJ, Missed your post. But, I can totally teach you haw to do this. I might try and rebuild my spare CV this week and do the passenger side next weekend. If it look like that is going to work for me, I will let you know in case you want to drive up here to watch/ help. I will be updating this thread with my step by step method and some additional photos.

CV rebuild
 
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OK.... On to the build. First thing you had to do is obviously remove the factory rear bumper. Once you have that done the instructions state that it was necessary "to cut out a notch for the receiver hitch to pass through the cross member. Measure up approximately 2 ¾” for the horizontal cut. It also needs to be approximately 2 ¾” wide for the vertical cuts. The vertical cuts go through the bottom two mounting holes on the back cross member. This all can be measured by using the top two mounting holes on the cross member and new bumper." This what the cut looks like:


If you notice I also cut through the top two nuts as well. It turns out the actual measurement on my rig for the horizontal cut is 2 1/2 inches. Please note the mistake I made here..... do not cut through the upper bolts!!! You will need these nuts when you install the bumper. They still worked and everything tightened up great. But to reinforce it I fab up a plate that is inserted in the rear cross member that I have put longer bolts through and secured with another set of lock washers and nuts.

After everything was cut, I masked off the back of the truck cleaned up the frame and repainted the frame from the rear wheels back.

Once that was done, it was time to slide the rear bumper on. It took me and one other guy 2min. 4. Once the bumper is on, use the 4 14mm mounting bolts that held on the tow hooks and/or the receiver hitch. I recommend leaving the hook on the passenger side to help protect the exhaust. Just get these bolts started. Center the bumper on the truck. There should be equal distance between the body and bumper. Once you have it centered tighten up the 4 bolts.

The back mounting hole on the face of the bumper should also line up now. Use the supplied 12mm bolts and washers in these two holes. Now for the wing supports. The frame mounting holes go toward the back of the truck. Use the supplied 14mm bolts to attach these brackets to the frame.

Use the supplied 3/8” bolts and washers to mount the brackets to the wings. Just get all these bolts started.
Wing support:
 
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Once all the wing supports are started you can tighten everything up. as mentioned in other threads, when I was removing my factory tow receiver, one of the captive nuts inside the frame broke loose and the other captive nut in front of that one was bent up and away from the hole. So, for now, the drivers side wing support is not installed while I am figuring out the solution. Photo of the missing captive nut and bent nut:


Now time to move on to the Swing outs....

Put the latch on the carrier with the 4 supplied bolts and washers. Put the latch catch on the bumper with the 2 supplied bolts and washers. Install the 5/16” ball ends in the threaded holes in both the bumper and carrier arm. Install the small rubber stop on the tab welded to the bottom of the carrier with the supplied screw and locking nut. Once everything is together install the struts on the ball end. This should be the last thing you do on your install.




Grease the spindle and spindle bearings and place the bearings in the hub. Be sure the bearings are in the races correctly. Install the dust seal on the bottom of the hub.


Put the carrier on the bumper and install the washer and crown nut. Tighten the crown nut and install the cotter pin and dust cover.





Strut installed:


Next install ladder and bolt it tight:


Make sure locking pin is installed:


You go through the same process for the tire carrier... nothing is different other than installing the light for the license and license itself....

More pics to come...
 
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Awesome bumper! I see you did not go with the optional storage that desert yeti had on his rear bumper? Looking good!
 
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thanks for sharing, nice write up, great pics, cool bumper. Makes me think a novice such as myself could do something like this.
 
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Griffin,

This is an easy job. By far the hardest parts were:
1. Removing the old bumper and tow receiver... the one captive nut that broke its weld was a total pain to remove
2. cutting out the notch in the cross member.

Everything else couldn't have been easier. One of the reasons I took the time to photograph and do this write up was to help people who may not have much experience turning a wrench.

Now back to photos:

Once both swing outs are installed, you can install the hi-lift jack. It is held on by a little plate with a wing nut:


Then you can install the spare.... The carrier can carry up to a 37" tire.



I don't have a car parked behind me now. So I will get some better over all shots over the next day or so and post those up as well. I also have something else I haven't shown yet to..... If there is anything any one would like to see a better shot of let me know...
 
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smm3

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Thanks for taking the time to explain this install. Doesn't look too terribly difficult.
 
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have you gotten around to taking any more pics of the rear bumper? I'd love to see some side shots and direct rear shots. trying to decide between this and a slee.
 
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yes, check out my build thread...I have a dual jerry can holder where he has the ladder...it is very solid indeed.
 
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yes, check out my build thread...I have a dual jerry can holder where he has the ladder...it is very solid indeed.
I really like the ladder. I wonder what the options would be for can mounts (removable) on the ladder. I've seen rotopax on ladders but I don't recall any universal Jerry Can mounts.
 
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Between this and the slee bumper, it's a tough decision for me. One thing i noticed though... why does this rear bumper look different from brock's bumper? I mean, the hitch layout and angle of the bumper?
 
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have you gotten around to taking any more pics of the rear bumper? I'd love to see some side shots and direct rear shots. trying to decide between this and a slee.
Does BIOR make a jerry can holder for their rear system? That's the only thing holding me back from going with this over the slee.
yes, check out my build thread...I have a dual jerry can holder where he has the ladder...it is very solid indeed.
I really like the ladder. I wonder what the options would be for can mounts (removable) on the ladder. I've seen rotopax on ladders but I don't recall any universal Jerry Can mounts.
Brock has the "high clearance" BIO design. This is a different design. BIO has a bolt on rear bumper that does not require cutting the rear cross member off. The design Brock has requires cutting the cross member.

Yeti also has the BIO non-high clearance bolt on rear bumper. You can see his build thread and pics here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/451147-yeti-s-cryptid-hundy-build-5.html
There is some information and mis-information in all of this. First and foremost, BOIR will pretty much make anything you want. He is great to work with. If you want something slightly different from mine, Brock's, or Yetti's, talk to him. He will work it out with you.

As for the bumpers:

He currently offers (2) different stlyes.

  1. is a high clearance bumper like Brocks and requires completely removing the rear crossmember.
  2. is a semi bolt on bumper like mine. As you can see in my build photos above, you still have to create a notch in the rear crossmember. It is not a completely bolt-on solution. The Slee rear bumper is.
Yetti's isnt a standard style. It is a version of mine that he had mike add a rear winch and storage. As I said, Mike will make anything you want. Yetti can correct me but from what Mike told me they had to notch his rear cross member as well.

As for rear can carrier's:

Mike has always had a standard can carrier with no ladder like seen on Brocks. When he built mine, I wanted a ladder and a can carrier that could be easily removed. Look at this link for pictures of mine with the carrier on. Photo Link
It takes me like 2 min. to remove the carrier and I only have it on the rig when I need it. Mike came up with a great solution for it and it didnt make a single sound while at Cruise Moab.

At the end of the day I love this bumper and would order it again. Having looked at both mine and Slee's bumper, here are the big differences:

  1. You do not have to cut off or notch the rear cross member to install it. Slee built his to stick back a little further. To gain extra clearance he put a slight angle in the bottom. We are only talking 1-2 inches. And you would be hard pressed to say the Slee or BOIR is better than the other in departure clearance. You would be arguing fractions of an inch.
  2. Slee designed a very very nice looking cap for the spindles which is more removable then the BOIR.
  3. I feel the powder coat BOIR puts on his bumper is the nicest I have ever seen. I want to get my ARB and Slee Sliders done to match it.... one day.
Hope this helps! If you really need more photos, I will take some. Just let me know.
 

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