Build Diary 07/1969 40 (1 Viewer)

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I haven't got to the 10 ga. but that is the route I'm going for the floors and it looks like my front floor pans need "work" too and unless I hit the lottery soon I'll have to make them.I don't mind makiing them,mind you ,and I believe if you make them right you can make them better but there are the obvious plusses for making it stock[It looks better for resale or if a guy is looking to buy a stocker] but a guy looking to collect a stocker probably ain't gonna buy this one although, I hope and plan for it to look and run real good and be a solid vehicle too.I just started this thing but I should have pics up real sooon.I saw a plasma cutter for $800.00 at tractor supply but,for me it's just a wishlist thing too.My last one[landcruiser] I was building at the same time they were rebuilding the nearby underpass and I was able too use liberated scraps for the flooor,and such, mostly galvanized 10 ga. I've seen it since and it hasn't rusted yet.It's ,sadly, just sitting and has been for years.I inquired about it and was told the guy who bought it from me "isn't in the area at this time ,but I could leave a number" I haven't heard yet and don't know if he's in the military or maybe prison or what-who knows?but I do know he's got lots of parts I sold him and I'll keep trying.
 
Yea hopefully that guy shows up or somethin. Thats really to bad it is sitting there possibly rusting away (not the galvanized parts). So I was looking on how to bend them flanges and found a tool anybody can make, basically it is a piece of round stock with a slot cut down the center of one end, the slot is then cut to the width of the piece you are bending and it is cut to the depth you want your flange to be (3/4" flange 3/4" deep slot). pretty dam simple now why didnt i think of that, lol. The work the guy was doing was on 18 gauge mild steel and it seemed to work really good, not sure how it would fare on SS. Probably wont.
Keep trying to get your cruiser back!
 
continuing the madness

So i crawled under the cruiser to see what i have to do to separate the rear part of the tub from the forward part, this will be a PIMA. Any way I took a photo of something i found maybe you guys can help me by telling me what it is for. The photo is just midships looking fwd. My assumptions are that it is for a PTO connection if you wanted to hook up a winch on the rear bumper.
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so its been a very long time since i posted last... had to stop my build/resto, had way to many other projects. well im ready to pick back up again.

i found i rear tub not sure what year it is or if it will even fit. It was only $100 so yea i got it. now that i got it home im sure it is not a 1970 and i cant figure out what year it is maybe somebody could help me out in identifying it?

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also in the top channel rail there are holes but they dont have the nut on the inside for the top to bolt onto. in pic 1 you see that bolt sticking out of the channel my guess is that it was for a seatbelt? and pic 2 i have no idea.
 
got this tranny hump that doesnt fit either the smller hump on the passenger side of the tranny cover is shallower then the stock one. again not sure what year it came from.

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some more pics just for the heck of it. tried starting/turn over engine tonight but no luck. engine not seized, new battery, starter new and tested. i think i may have bad ground connection will figure it out tomorrow

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well im at it again, got my body parts paint and everything to finish the frame and undercarriage. i got some frame paint called gillespie coatings "raven black" anybody ever used it or has pics of it?
started this truck in 2011 and here we are 8 years later. got the frame 90% blasted dam im slow lol
gotta do it right or not at all
 
rental company is coming to inspect on wednesday so i have to clean up and make it look like nothing is going on here :meh:
 
so on the inside of the frame rails it is a pia to totally blast every square inch, manipulation of the blast gun is near impossible for that task.
to the extent im taking this i mite as well cut the rivets and pull the inner frame rail out, but im not doing that because i am not bolting it back together and have no way to hot rivet them back together. any suggestions for paint removal in those hard to reach areas? im using SPI epoxy primer for sealer and acrylic enamel for a cover.
 
its been in this bare metal stage for a little over a month and not one sign of flash rust yet! well i guess there is 1 good thing about living in las vegas.
 
oh and by the way if anyone is interested i still have the ambulance doors very very minimal rust. willing to trade for the half doors and other odd ball items i need
 
I also have a spare tire carrier with hinges and full locking assembly, its for the drivers side and i cant use it anyone wanna trade?
 
not gunna let this toy get the best of me!
recently received some things i will need for this restoration.
still waiting on wheel wells, rear sill, rear quarters, rear channel and drivers floor from ccot, should be here any day.
trying to have the rolling chassis epoxied, painted and put back together before 3 months time. gunna sand blast and epoxy all under carriage parts and make them great again.
cant find oem rear shocks for my year, so im gunna order a set of fj55 rear shocks, they may or may not work i know they are a tad bit taller but so are alot of aftermarkets.

just had a home inspection today and i got a B+ above average rating! so now i can reset my garage and finish the media blasting, sucks though still wont be able to paint because of low temperatures and i do not wanna go buy a heater for the garage, sooo ill just have to wait for a week with temps in the 70's.

most of the parts in the first pick are from toyotapartsdealdotcom.

still looking for the round orange reflex reflectors that go up front they look just like the rear reflectors but orange mite have to make my own reflector and mount to oem reflector body.

if anyone needs a part number from something you see in the first photo pm me
 
some more pics just for the heck of it. tried starting/turn over engine tonight but no luck. engine not seized, new battery, starter new and tested. i think i may have bad ground connection will figure it out tomorrow

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going back to this last post from sep 2016, i did get it running and it sounded great, gunna need some fine tuning and some new wiring in spots. overall i know i have a good running engine and can now commence with the hard work :)
 

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