Ok so i sprayed with pb blaster waited 24hrs and bolt broke. Not even a through/corner bolt. Best extractor technique?
Broken tranny bolt extraction
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Thread a nut on, weld it in place. The heat of welding may also help with breaking it loose. As it cools. touch an old wax candle to it - the wax will wick into the threads (an trick and old time machinists showed me). If you can't weld it yourself, find a friend who can - this type of break is ideal for that kind of extraction.
My opinion, but people need to stop pulling the pan under the guise of maintenance. The OEM validated the fluid to go a lifetime. Any fluid change or exchange, without pulling the pan, is already better and above and beyond what the OEM calls for. No need to go to the extreme in pulling the pan. It's akin to one pulling the oil pan to change oil.
Maintenance induced failure (MIF) is a real thing. As evidenced by the rash of pan pulling related issues as of late. Very real possibility to create more issues than it solves.
Maintenance induced failure (MIF) is a real thing. As evidenced by the rash of pan pulling related issues as of late. Very real possibility to create more issues than it solves.
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Many, many of these get pulled for every one with a problem. Plus pulling the pan is the only way to maximize fluid exchange.
Totota may have validated the fluid for a “lifetime” but anyone looking at UOA for these transmissions understands they must have been thinking about factors other than long-term health when they reached their conclusions.
Many of us are getting our first crack at a fluid exchange well past 100k and there is a solid case for removing as much fluid as possible and changing the filter in that scenario, including the very low risk (by the numbers) of bolt problems.
After that simple drain/fill using the plug should work well.
Plus, with small hardware like this it’s relatively easy to feel when we might have a galling/stuck issue and address it before the whole pan gets dropped and we are stuck.
Totota may have validated the fluid for a “lifetime” but anyone looking at UOA for these transmissions understands they must have been thinking about factors other than long-term health when they reached their conclusions.
Many of us are getting our first crack at a fluid exchange well past 100k and there is a solid case for removing as much fluid as possible and changing the filter in that scenario, including the very low risk (by the numbers) of bolt problems.
After that simple drain/fill using the plug should work well.
Plus, with small hardware like this it’s relatively easy to feel when we might have a galling/stuck issue and address it before the whole pan gets dropped and we are stuck.
Be my guest. For everyone else considering, it's worth going in eyes wide open.
Just some examples of the many that have run into this problem:
Corner bolts on transmission pan need to be tapped. How critical is this?
Hey Everyone. Today, as I was in the process of dropping the transmission pan, two corner bolts snapped and need to be tapped out. A small amount of fluid came out of one corner when I did the refill, about 3 tablespoons. No fluid came from the other corner. After a short 8 mile drive, the LC...
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The engineers didn't take a position in the manual without objective data. There's also good reason the Toyota/Lexus service centers no longer offer transmission fluid service.
Still, I agree that some fluid exchange is better especially under heavy loaded use. I highly recommend drain and fill, and exchanging via the coolant lines. Dropping the pan is overkill.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
What @CharlieS said above.
Same way I've gotten a whole bunch of KDSS valves to break loose last year.
Same way I've gotten a whole bunch of KDSS valves to break loose last year.
I like overkill. I'll be dropping my pan and replacing the screen when it hits 100k.
Back to the original question, thanks for the photo, that is a big help. I think before going to the trouble of getting a welder there, I would do a few heat/cool cycles with a small torch and some ice. Obviously don't go overboard on the heat. Do you have a pair of ViceGrip pliers? I rarely use them but this is an occasion where they can really help. I don't like extractors, I've seen too many snap off, especially very small ones like you would need for this. Then you are really... screwed. (Sorry, couldn't resist)
Back to the original question, thanks for the photo, that is a big help. I think before going to the trouble of getting a welder there, I would do a few heat/cool cycles with a small torch and some ice. Obviously don't go overboard on the heat. Do you have a pair of ViceGrip pliers? I rarely use them but this is an occasion where they can really help. I don't like extractors, I've seen too many snap off, especially very small ones like you would need for this. Then you are really... screwed. (Sorry, couldn't resist)
There is enough room there to thread 2 nuts and tighten them up against one another and use a good socket wrench to screw it out, or use an induction tool to heat it up and spray a good lubricant on it to cool it down before using the double nut technique - looks pretty easy