Build Bridger - the family 62 build

[cliffrdavis]

For the other windows I purchased @jonnyd42 fast window mod. He is close to getting them with the wiring harnesses built in - but I’ve done a lot of marine wiring so I pulled the trigger.

alpinelabs.dev - https://alpinelabs.dev/

While I was waiting for these to arrive I decided to tackle the fuel gauge issue.

I detailed this in separate post - but short story is that my sender has the correct resistance and looked fairly new. However, I had difficulty fitting it back in the tank after testing it. I got suspicious when gauge still wasn’t working after testing - and looked at some OEM senders. Sure enough whoever replaced the sender used a aftermarket (no markings on the part) and the float arm is too long. So the float was stuck in the bottom of the tank all the time reading empty.

New sender from CityRacer -

OEM Fuel Tank Sending Unit for '81 to '90 Land Cruiser FJ60 FJ62

OEM fuel tank sending unit for '81 to '90 Land Cruiser FJ60, BJ60, HJ60, FJ62. Compatible with 2F, 2H, 3B, and 3FE engines. OEM part # 83320-69015. New gasket and screws are included.

www.cityracerllc.com

Installed the sender in a couple minutes and fixed the gauge issue. Right one on pic was installed aftermarket sender. Left was OEM replacement. Notice the float arm length.

 

[Spook50]

Back to the build! So I’m catching up to where we are currently - like the original post said we started around Dec 2025 and have taken a little break from working to drive it before some much needed engine maintenance.

I decided to tackle a few more issues before the break.

1. Drivers side window intermittently getting stuck down.
2. Slow windows at all the other doors.
3. Fuel gauge/sender
4. A/C diagnostics.

For the drivers window - the day I got it in 2025 the window got stuck down. Grrr- not good in Florida’s with all the Tstorms. In a rush, I didn’t check MUD and just ordered a switch off CityRacer. And to nobodies surprise it didn’t change anything!! So then I did the MUD search and found the issue of the relay in the door. Sure enough - when relay was lightly tapped the window would go up - if it sat for a day it would get stuck down. I tested the motor and hotwired it to confirm. No surprise - relay issue.

Found @Spook50 did PCB refreshes of these with a two week turnaround. He replaces all the relays and capacitors and sends them back to you. Pretty awesome. Of course I could figure it out myself- but it’s great to reward MUD members that specialize in a niche area!

I sent it out a couple weeks ago and it should be here soon. More on that install later.

It actually should be getting delivered tomorrow, so you'll have a functioning driver's window again

It's definitely a fun thing to be able to do, and helps me put a few bucks extra aside for taking my kids on road trips.

 

[cliffrdavis]

I’ve been working on Bridger a lot over past couple weeks.

I figured out my AC blower was not working due to a loose wire. YaY - However, no light or cold air. Can’t hear the clutch engaging. Checked all the fuses. Decided to take to a local quality AC shop. Turns out the compressor was shot. Got it replaced and recharged. As I was picking it up they called and said “good news is that your AC is running cold - bad news is that you AC idler pulley is shot and it’s screaming so load you probably won’t use the AC.” They said they couldn’t get the pulley - so I paid for compressor and called @cruisermatt who sent me the pulley overnight. I tried to adjust the current one to reduce the stress in the bearing but the adjusting bolt was bent and pulley wouldn’t move.

At this point I had hit a crossroad. It’s almost impossible to drive in Tampa without AC - traffic and frequent T-storms will fog you up. Can’t leave the windows down for long. I bit the bullet and decided to do my engine work early. Was really hoping to enjoy it for a few months first. @cruisermatt supplied the hoses, plugs/plug wires, distributor cap, timing seal, water pump, thermostat, a bunch of hoses, air and fuel filter. I also got an aluminum radiator that has been waiting to get installed.

I got the driver window PCB from @Spook50 installed and worked perfectly. Installed in 2 mins! Totally worth it.

 

[cruisermatt]

Sounds like it’s time to dig in.. I have the OEM adjuster bolts too!

 

[cliffrdavis]

Been busy disassembling the front of the engine the past two weeks. Ran into typical issues - 3 of the 4 thermostat bolts broke and there was enough still embedded that I couldn’t get it to open. I figured it would take me hours to drill them out and a couple of the sensors disintegrated when I tried to loosen the connections. Time is money…. so I unbolted the entire housing - purchased one and all new sensors. $$$ it hurt - but now I’m happy I did!

Got the harmonic balancer off and the rubber is shot and it was grooved. New 3 groove HBs for 3FE are NLA @MWM1 explained to me you can still get high quality aftermarket ones. The front pulley comes off and bolts up to the 2 groove version. So I went that route.

Also had issues getting timing cover off. There was A LOT of FIPG on the cover seal. Was difficult to get off without bending it. Then I needed some MUD help on how to get the FIPG off that was hard as a rock. Got advice on how to remove including Permetex gasket remover, plastic razors, heat, 3M pads. What a PIA! Took several days of coating the seal with the gasket remover, it barely softened it. Ended up used heat gun, heated an extended arm gasket razor until it was smoking hot and cut through the seal until I could see some metal - then used 3M pads on a drill to clean the rest.

At a point I can start cleaning brackets/parts for painting and cleaning the exposed block. Also removing all the hard to reach hoses for replacement.

Cruisermatt sending me parts every week as I make progress!

Timing seal before

After

 

[cliffrdavis]

Already posted these but HB is shot. Haven’t heard great things about using a sleeve so I chose new aftermarket.