Build Bridger - the family 62 build

[cliffrdavis]

Before we started the project I did a lot of homework on which tires and wheels to match our desired look. I hadn’t purchased the brake upgrade yet and wanted minimal or no spacers (the tundra brake upgrade pushes the front hubs out 1 5/8” which negates that issue - more on that later ). We wanted classic looking pattern wheel - grey or black. I probably should have just gone with 17” steel wheels as 16” limited tire selection a lot but I was trying to make sure braking would be good and acceleration was still OK (a fast turtle instead of a slow tortoise)! Decided on Nomad Convoy grey 16 x 8” -10. Was close to chosing their mock steelie alloy wheels with center caps. Either were great looking wheels.

501UG Convoy Utility Gray – Nomad Wheels - https://www.nomadwheels.com/collections/truck-suv/products/501-convoy-utility-gray

Coupled with Wildpeak AT4 255/85 in attempt to get the best combo of off road traction and low road noise based on reviews.

 

[cliffrdavis]

At the same time was ordering bumpers and sliders as I figured it would take a few weeks for delivery and powder coating.

We had decided on the @TRAIL TAILOR sliders and bumpers early on so I ordered those and his upgraded aprons.

After a lot of thought we decided to go with factory rear bumper. Still available through Toyota and shipped in 2 days. Kept the original hitch - which we were going to get powder coated too.

TT stuff came quickly so it was off to powder - so we started on the front suspension, knuckles and big brake upgrade.

 

[cliffrdavis]

Added 4 deg shims to front springs - got them from Cruisermatt with front flex brake lines.

Mated up the axle housing and springs. Front springs installed easier. Yes - I put my shackles on upside down - will need to reverse those soon!

Same deal with shock washers - I was missing several. Luckily I had several on the way from
Toyota.

Sway bar lined up well with new longer attachment to account for the lift.

Tried to install the front drive shaft but was missing original bolts (starting to feel like there is a parts gremlin in my barn). I had everything labeled in separate ziploc bags. Had to order these from Toyota as well. Luckily,, there is large parts arehouse an hour outside Tamoa and they have been getting delivered quickly.

So we got housing installed - kinda. Realized the front U-bolts were so long I couldn’t tighten them with socket/air wrench. Due to concave shape of the lower shock mount/spring support an open end wrench won’t work. I knew I could cut the u-bolt ends but decided to buy extra deep socket - another part waiting to get delivered. Also waiting for shock mount washers and driveshaft bolts.

 

[cruisermatt]

All of your shackles are on upside down... We also have all the shock hardware, driveshaft bolts, etc in stock here if you ever need usually UPS to Tampa is next day.

 

[cliffrdavis]

All of your shackles are on upside down... We also have all the shock hardware, driveshaft bolts, etc in stock here if you ever need usually UPS to Tampa is next day.

Funny about shackles. I had them right and at some point reversed them as I was adding weight. Don’t remember why - dumb. I’ll blame it on my 13 yo helper Waiting for a rainy day to reverse them.

Matt - I’ve got to make it to your shop! Every time I ask if you have a part - you have it in stock! Must be an amazing place! I’ll call next time whatever I need.

 

[cliffrdavis]

We got the driveshaft bolts, shock mount washers and deep socket a few days later.

Deep socket still wasn’t deep enough to tighten the ubolts down so I just cut the ubolt ends 2 inches shorter with cutting wheel.

Btw, my old torque wrench got ruined by hurricane flood so I bought a set on Amazon that have been better than I expected. Also got a thread identifying wall tool that has been great. They aren’t pro tool quality but have done great for all the work over the past 6 months.

SST - Identibolt PRO - Thread... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CW9THKBF?tag=ihco-20

SUZUME 3PCS Torque Wrench Set 72... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D83LBS6Q?tag=ihco-20

Installed the shocks FR/RR with new washers, new tie rod ends and painted them. started installing tie/relay rods, installed sway bar and the steering stabilizer.

 

[cliffrdavis]

At this point we started on the big brake upgrade. I already posted this with some detail - link below. As noted there are two Toyota options for front brake upgrade - early 00-06’ Tundra and 2017+ 4-runner. Per prior posts on the subject the former needs at least 16” wheels and latter 17” wheels. Unfortunately for me - as described in my post the vendor sent me the wrong ones so I installed the 2017 brakes but realized it near the end and had to purchase Tundra calipers locally. Good news is the install is identical other than the dust seal which is discussed at the end of the thread.

As part of the upgrade we installed Advics master cylinder BMT-090 which has a larger bore. Per my reading on MUD the booster on the 62 is upgraded from the early 60 series so I left that alone. The new Advics MC does have a different size reservoir cap - I need to call @cruisermatt to see if he has that solution to keep the sensor/light active with new cap.

Thread '62 big brake build upgrade thread'
62 big brake build upgrade thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/62-big-brake-build-upgrade-thread.1377959/

 

[cliffrdavis]

After we got the wheels installed and torques all the steering linkages, knuckles and ubolts one last time we started on the bumpers and sliders.

Like I noted earlier we decided to go with OEM rear bumper - still for sale from Toyota. The original bumper ends were still in good shape. I removed them, wire brushed the metal parts and painted metal with same frame paint. Then replaced all the hardware with new grade 10.9 bolts/nuts.

For the rear bumper I purchased stainless hardware. In Tampa, due to saltwater air anything exposed to air and sun will rust unless it’s painted or powder coated within a couple months - even standard galvanized steel. Got it all mated up.

Hitch mount was back from powder coat with front bumper and sliders. Purchased grade 8 hardware from hitch shop for strength and corrosion resistance.

Installed it all and the spare tire mount we cleaned and painted previously.

 

[cliffrdavis]

OK, I need some advice from the 60 series team. I’ve been posting to catch up with the current work that I’m on, but my cruiser is on the road now. I brought it to a Tire Kingdom to get it aligned. They called me an hour later and said they are unable to do it, they said that every time they got it aligned they would drive it and then hook it back up to the machine, and the alignment had changed.

They said they could not find anything loose and didn’t know what the problem was.

I looked under it, couldn’t identify anything quickly that was loose. No evidence of tierods rubbing. Posting some pictures to see if anybody sees anything that is off. Obviously, if the trunnion bearings are whacked than it could cause this, but I put in new ones and everything else is new. I will obviously retorque everything when I get it back on the lift.

After the initial install the wheels/hubs and steering all felt tight but easily steerable with the wheel.

Or do I need to just bring it to a 4wd shop? And yes, I know the shackles are upside down

 

[cliffrdavis]

Here is what they gave me at the shop - but they said it changed every time they hooked it up so not sure how helpful.

Post alignment doesn’t look that bad if it was correct. I have 4 degree shims in front of

 

[cruisermatt]

You should be doing your own alignment. Going to a shop is a waste of time if you were able to do all of that work yourself.
You just need to set your toe-in, drive it and then straight the steering wheel and you are done.
That is the only parameter you can really adjust. Should only take you 15-30 min or so.
Think about it, where else you do you see any sort of threaded adjustment on this vehicle?

 

[cliffrdavis]

You should be doing your own alignment. Going to a shop is a waste of time if you were able to do all of that work yourself.
You just need to set your toe-in, drive it and then straight the steering wheel and you are done.
That is the only parameter you can really adjust. Should only take you 15-30 min or so.
Think about it, where else you do you see any sort of threaded adjustment on this vehicle?

That is funny as I was thinking to myself - there is only one tie rod and relay bar. They can’t change camber and the castor is set by the shim - so I guess I’ll check to see how tight everything is as it doesn’t make sense why they couldn’t get it to stay consistent. At least they didn’t charge me.

Thanks @cruisermatt. BTW, do you have a solution for the wiring/sensor for the Advics BMT090 master cylinder for 62. The cap is bigger diameter than OEM and doesn’t have any sensors on the Advics cap to splice.

 

[cruisermatt]

Thanks @cruisermatt. BTW, do you have a solution for the wiring/sensor for the Advics BMT090 master cylinder for 62. The cap is bigger diameter than OEM and doesn’t have any sensors on the Advics cap to splice.

Easy button

60 Series Brake Master Cylinder Upgrade Harness

Installing a T100 or 80 Series brake master cylinder in your 60 series to go along with a brake upgrade? This harness adapts and extends the brake fluid level switch wiring seamlessly. If you have any questions about compatibility or installation, please do not hesitate to reach out to us for...

cruisermatts.com

 

[onemanarmy]

does it drive wonky now? does it pull hard one way or the others? does it streer fine at low speeds? is it darty on rough roads?

 

[cliffrdavis]

does it drive wonky now? does it pull hard one way or the others? does it streer fine at low speeds? is it darty on rough roads?

steering wheel was about 15 degrees off center and it felt like it was tracking too much - so I think toe in needed adjustment. It does seem better after their work and wheel is centered.

Steering box feels just a little loose but I’m having a tough time remembering my other 60 series - I remember it being much better but it had v8 conversion - I didn’t own it long enough to determine what steering box it had. My 40 had manual box and was stiff and tight. I’ll put some miles on it and decide.

I’m not driving it much - explained later - but I did drive SOOO much better than my 40 on the interstate which had completely rebuilt suspension, steering and brakes too.

Easy button

60 Series Brake Master Cylinder Upgrade Harness

Installing a T100 or 80 Series brake master cylinder in your 60 series to go along with a brake upgrade? This harness adapts and extends the brake fluid level switch wiring seamlessly. If you have any questions about compatibility or installation, please do not hesitate to reach out to us for...

cruisermatts.com

Ordered this - thanks!

 

[cliffrdavis]

So back to the build

We put on new warn locking hubs - I know I could have rebuilt mine and repainted but I made the decision to go new.

Bleed the brakes several times with a power bleeder - love this thing - but if I did this frequently I would have paid extra for the one that comes with MC reservoir cap fittings. I kept getting leaks and had to tighten it over and over to get a seal on the reservoir.

Motive Products 0101 Universal... Amazon.com: Motive Products 0101 Universal Power Bleeder 2-Quart Tank with Hose and Round Adapter : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ5DWKO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

After we got all steering bolted up and I double checked all the torque settings we put on the wheels.

Adjusted the rear brakes by pulling on the ebrake cable until they felt good and symmetric.

 

[onemanarmy]

There is an adjustment on the steering box too, on the top. You'll need a box end wrench and a flat head screwdriver. That may tighten up the box a bit.

 

[cliffrdavis]

There is an adjustment on the steering bot too, on the top. You'll need a box end wrench and a flat head screwdriver. That may tighten up the box a bit.

Thanks for tip - forgot that - doing that next time I’m at the barn!

 

[cliffrdavis]

Back to build. -

We drove it around the property a couple laps and it felt great. Rear sitting very high - when I installed the rear suspension I kept the spring perches and rubber as they were in great condition. Combination of that, new springs and shackles it was standing on its toes!

I loaded the cargo space with the original wheels/tires and a couple heavy spare parts. Drove it a few more laps and to gas station - unfortunately fuel gauge not working. I thought it was fine because it was at 1/4 tank but didn’t move after filling. Another project later. Regardless it drove much better and was starting to settle.

I let my 13 yo do a couple laps - I want him to feel like this is his build and reward for all the work. He has driven tractors and UTVs so it was like riding a bike!

One of the pics has the sliders installed. On to that project description next as it has some tips for others.

 

[cliffrdavis]

So now onto the sliders.

Got the powder coat with subtle texture flat black. These are Trail Tailor products (bumper too) and great quality.

Kit comes with spacers to put between the brake lines and frame on the passenger side to make room for the hardware. That was pretty easy with cruiser on the lift.

The passenger side was a breeze to install. Put the slider on the lift with cruiser on the ground and just lifted the slider until it was close - installed U-bolts and brackets on the frame. Probably took 15 mins. We were feeling great!