Brat Pack FJ60 Build
- Thread starter kkodet
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Today's project was to finish putting the rear axle back together. This included new 5.29 gears, and an Aussie locker. I ran into the same crosspin issue that I did the first time I built this axle. The thick ring gear won't allow room to install it. Many people grind the ring gear for clearance but I'm not a fan of how much material needed to be removed. So like I did last time, I ground the pin into a "D" shape.
Problem with my "D" pin in an Aussie locker is it no longer allows the pin to hold in the cap for the C-clip on the left side. So my solution was to cut a slot in the end of the pin. This allowed the insertion of a flat screwdriver to turn the pin 90 degrees counterclockwise. My initial thought was to redrill the pin retainer bolt hole but the hardened pin proved difficult to drill, plus there was not a lot of meat to do this. So some simple tack welds hold it in place.
After I finished the axle I moved on to fabricating some bumpstops, hoping to keep my boggers from mating with my fenders. Fire Marshall Rollbarbob stood fire duty as I finished the welds next to the gas tank.
I didn't take a pic after, but as a final touch I coated them with bedliner.
Last project this eve was swapping out the driveshaft flanges for the late large pattern. I noticed the one on the back of the T-case was tight and I have had bearing noise in the past. After taking the rear housing off a few times I finally figured out there is a shim under the race. After removing it, tolerances were perfect.
Fingers crossed that tomorrow I should have this buckled up!
Problem with my "D" pin in an Aussie locker is it no longer allows the pin to hold in the cap for the C-clip on the left side. So my solution was to cut a slot in the end of the pin. This allowed the insertion of a flat screwdriver to turn the pin 90 degrees counterclockwise. My initial thought was to redrill the pin retainer bolt hole but the hardened pin proved difficult to drill, plus there was not a lot of meat to do this. So some simple tack welds hold it in place.
After I finished the axle I moved on to fabricating some bumpstops, hoping to keep my boggers from mating with my fenders. Fire Marshall Rollbarbob stood fire duty as I finished the welds next to the gas tank.
I didn't take a pic after, but as a final touch I coated them with bedliner.
Last project this eve was swapping out the driveshaft flanges for the late large pattern. I noticed the one on the back of the T-case was tight and I have had bearing noise in the past. After taking the rear housing off a few times I finally figured out there is a shim under the race. After removing it, tolerances were perfect.
Fingers crossed that tomorrow I should have this buckled up!
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- Thread starter
- #24
Installed a Smittybuilt YJ security console. I meant to order the stereo model to mount my CB but accidentally ordered the wrong part number. I think I like if more with the longer armrest and interior space. Still plenty of room to mount the CB on the side.
I also removed the old lowjack style security system that consisted of a few hundred wires and relays.
A last minute surprise was a leaking oil cooler so if got disconnected and bypassed.
Drove the old girl about 60 miles tonight and all is good. Just need to rewire winch tomorrow and I can load up for this weekend's Gitchee Gumee trip!
I also removed the old lowjack style security system that consisted of a few hundred wires and relays.
A last minute surprise was a leaking oil cooler so if got disconnected and bypassed.
Drove the old girl about 60 miles tonight and all is good. Just need to rewire winch tomorrow and I can load up for this weekend's Gitchee Gumee trip!
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- #25
Four ring style hooks. The Suburban seat clicks right into them, and it sits at the right height to allow a nice combination of foot and head room.
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- #26
A few photos of the old girl in action at Gitchee Gumee 2015. Everything worked very well. It handled rocks better than expected. At the end of day one the clutch master cylinder started leaking profusely under the dash. We filled it with power steering fluid to swell the seals and for the thicker viscosity. This worked for about 24 hours before blowing out again, which was just enough to finish the event. A tree removed a headlight and a boulder moved in my drivers rear quarter panel but all in all she is no worse for wear.
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- #28
Daily driving the old girl again which I love. Yesterday I was going down the street and lost steering. I ended up over the curb and in a field. The tie rod had failed at the pitman arm.
Being a diver by trade I carry a roll of electrical tape all the time. Half a roll later I was back on the road. This should last another 31 years!
Well, at least it lasted long enough to limp a mile to my shop at 3mph so I could put another one on.
And today I got around to putting the new clutch master in. So much smoother than pushing a clutch full of power steering fluid!
Being a diver by trade I carry a roll of electrical tape all the time. Half a roll later I was back on the road. This should last another 31 years!
Well, at least it lasted long enough to limp a mile to my shop at 3mph so I could put another one on.
And today I got around to putting the new clutch master in. So much smoother than pushing a clutch full of power steering fluid!
Great read so far! I just got a smittybuilt console shipped. I too have the brown interior and they sent me all black. Seeing your photo it doesn't look too bad at all. I guess I'll go for it!
Any chance of you posting how you installed the smittybuilt console or pics?
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- #31
Well...........it was pretty complicated........actually not at all lol! I took it out of the box, bolted the little spacer/filler panel for the rear part on, set it where I wanted it and drilled through the floor and bolted it up with the four supplied bolts. No modifications to the console or anything, and I like where it is. However, it should be noted i pushed the console as far forward until the little spacer thing on the bottom hit a brace built in the floor and that is where I left it. I am 6 foot 2, so I sit with the seat most of the way back. A shorter person may want the console a few more inches forward. However they would need to modify the spacer bracket or remove the floor brace. I would definitely do it again!
Final note, the cupholders are decent but not great. They are decent for a can of Coke, but taller drinks still can be an issue. Also, I too thought about getting tan, but as greasy as I get most days, black is probably better for me!
- Thread starter
- #33
Fenders are stock uncut. The 37 Boggers just fit, and they only measure out to a true 35. The bumpstops I made work well, although I would like a softer ride. My springs are a bit tired so I've been debating between add a leaf, replacement with OME springs, or putting in stock ones and going spring over. Or maybe going to coilovers or some equivalent.... Choices choices!!
When you say you drilled through the floor do you mean you drilled the floor in the landcruiser?
I've been trying to tie into the existing screw holes for the stock console.
I've been trying to tie into the existing screw holes for the stock console.
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- #35
Yup, drilled right through. Worked great!
Interior looks like it was in good shape when you got it! I'm jealous. And that smittybuilt console doesn't look too bad in there. Does it fit the floorplan?