Brakes = BAD to WORSE

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ya know.. been thinking.. If the PO replaced the Master cylinder it might have been leaking into the booster.. Seen it more than once.. It might behoove you to pull the booster off and see if it's full of brake fluid.. Your getting quite the brake education here.
 
tornadoalleycruiser said:
ya know.. been thinking..
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Scary!:p

Makes sense though. Would account for the fluid loss if there is no leaks. Master went out and is blowing by into booster. I'd pull it and check before you end up with a floorboard full of brake fluid.
 
I should have an extra booster laying around if that is the cause. Speaking of, I have a set-up that I need to get back to Erik. I will put it on the list to get over to our cabbie.
 
Just got back from Scout camp. Thanks for the additional info! I will take a look and get into this some more tomorrow or later today after a little nap :)
 
tornadoalleycruiser said:
also see if you can find a 10mm flare wrench not just the standard open end.. makes a HUGE difference in not rounding off the fittings. some of the aftermarket are 11mm heads so you might need 2 different wrenches, most have a 10/12 mm combo and the second will probably have an 11/13 combo.
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I picked up a set of flare wrenches. I'm going to take off the master cylinder and check that gasket on the back side and for leakage as you suggest. Given how dirty the oil was, I may just drain it all, buy the stainless steel brake lines from Man A Fre, replace them, and then go back with all new oil. I'll check behind the master first for booster leakage. Thanks, JB
 
UPDATE:

Got the stainless steel brake lines in. Decided to replace them and drain and fill the brake lines with new brake fluid.

Opened all the bleed valves and drained via hose into the empty apple juice containers I got at Sams to make hard cider.

Started wrestling with the first rear brake line and couldn't get the thin, flat nut to come loose before it started getting dark AND my headlamp started going out.

Left the old brake lines on and bled out the system.

I noticed that the rear brakes bled easily and filled quickly.

The front RIGHT took FOREVER to see fluid come through and it was REALLY WEAK when it did. The front LEFT sent fluid through quickly and easily.

Brake pedal after bleeding went to the floor easily and grabbed at the very end like with another bleed and more fluid I may have a better situation.

Going to bleed them again when I get back from NYC biz trip. Going to also finish the SS lines.

Found a few MC on ebay, too:

BECK ARNLEY 072-8587 Brake Master Cylinder | eBay

Or just the cylinder itself:

CARDONE 11-2254 Brake Master Cylinder | eBay
 
UPDATE:

Bled the master and the brakes again. Master seems to be pushing a large amount of highly pressurized fluid.

I'm getting stop-age - just pretty far down - pedal is at first hard to push, then it gives and then a quick stop at the end. Feels like more air in the system - I ran out of fluid, so have to buy another quart and do some more bleeding :\

Brake light is now on, too!

I think the issue may have been simply clogged up old brake fluid and poor flexible brake lines - something gave way when I fully drained it

The old fluid was nasty - almost coffee colored.
 
UPDATE:

Bought a 93 T100 MC on ebay.
Got a free 60 booster (paid shipping of $25) on here.
Bought a wilwood valve on ebay from summitt.

Taking the whole mess to a friend in edgerton and turning it over for help w/ the hard line work.

considering buying the 4runner refurb calipers, too - don't got no money - - I owe Erik $$ already!
 
I got a set of 4runner calipers you can have if you come by and grab axles :)
even got a t100 master and 60 series booster sitting in shop.
I was planning on using the calipers later but also on those axles you want are good calipers. thats an option.
 
Wow - that is a deal I can't refuse. I'll PM you with best time to meet. I'm out doing our usual river guide stuff on the Niangua this weekend but back Sunday PM.
 
I love it when a plan comes together..
 
UPDATE:

Took the truck out to my friend in Edgerton and we got it up on the lift.

He replaced the booster and the MC.

We pulled a wheel and looked at the calipers and the inside piston on both sides was stuck!

He's going to go ahead and remove the LSPV. I picked up a similar Wilwood valve to Erik's on his truck.

We are going to replace the calipers with either Erik's 4runner ones (thank you to Erik and Colin) or some OEM rebuilts that a buddy of his can get for cheap (neither of us are too sure about the grinding and bending required with the 4Runner calipers, yet).

More to come . . . :)
 
Got calipers to him now
 
Well I have brakes now that are MUCH better than before :)

I want to thank everyone for advice and help, especially Erik for providing the calipers (ended up being back ups, but that is another story) and for all the input on the load sensing proportioning valve.

Pics below kinda tell "the rest of the story."

Looks like I did have a pretty good MC leak out the back (for those playing at home, called by Erik early on). You can see evidence of this on the booster.

My friend and mechanic, Charlie, did all the brake line work for me (he also did the calipers at like 3 am before I could get to his house and deliver the new-used 4Runner ones from Erik). Of course, Erik's input on bypassing the LSPV was critical as we traced those things around. You can see the Wilwood proportioning valve near the MC in that pic. When fully "closed" it reduces pressure to the rear by up to 57%. I have it 3 of 10 turns open from that or at a reduction of like 45%.

Used a T100 MC and a FJ60 used booster.

I may still move on to a rebuilt MC from Napa or somewhere as a next step, but for now, we are stopping without the effort as before!!

Thanks again all!
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Congrats on a diagnosis and fix..
 
nice clean install
 
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