With proper braking. Pads can last 45K rear, 90K font 98-02, ~60K rear & front 03-07. Exception is daily stop and go HWY rush hour traffic. Which wear pads faster from excessive braking. Why is wear different, between years? Toyota increase front braking, by increasing brake caliper pistons size in 03-07!
That said:
Rotors are replaced when wear limit reached. Front 30MM minimum.
If getting brake pulse, pulling while braking or if rotors heavily grooved (vinyl record which can wear new pads faster).
If one or more issue with front rotors or wishing new rotor. Certainly replacing during a wheel bearing service, makes a lot of senses.
We machine turn front rotors, on an OTV Brake Lathe. When needed to correct issues. But, wheel bearing must be tight to do so. We also need at least 30.5mm before machining, best to have at least 31mm machining (cut on lathe). Since we remove a minimum of 0.5mm, during machining.
New Front Shim kits are usually needed. But we don't know for sure, until old are inspected for wear of anti squeal shim (inner shim) and or damage to piston retaining clips of pad retainer shim (outer shim). Note: We two different shim kits 98-02 and 03-07. They are not interchangeable.
I replace slide pins, most every time. They tend to have grooves worn in pins and rusty.
Most times, if they been serviced a good Toyota/Lexus shop. The pad retainer clips, wire clips and anti rattle spring (not shown id diagram) are reusable.
Anti rattle spring, is seen here between pads on lower pin.
Wheel bearing service with Rotor replacement:
First do not pound on hub flange.
Hit hub flange studs, using a bass dowel, to pop out cone washes. I find most brass hammers or forged brass and to hard to use on studs.
This was a hub flange and cone washer, that were glued on. We should never use FIPG here. Just a gasket. Worked me and my tools to death. PITA.
After which I developed tooling, to handle all cone washers fast and easy. Love this tool set-up:
I've use a brass dwell and 5lb sledge hammer for years, which works fine. But pneumatic works so much faster and is so much easier. BTW; in video i say "litt...
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Using a plastic dead blow hammer. To pound wheel hub off rotors, is best tool I've found.
Dead blow above works best, better than plastic hammer below.
With wooden blocks placed under rotor, hold wheel hub off bench. Pound wheel hub through/off rotor. We're pounding on wheel speed sensor stator and seal ring/seat of wheel hub oil seal. If a steel or even forged brass hammer used. It will damage the area we pound on. So only used softer material to pound with. Like wood. lead, rubber, or plastic.
Note the non-reusable parts:
Tip:
Wheel bearing, axle bearing and brass bushings are reusable. Provide races not removed and bearing keep with their races and condition of bearings, race brass bushings good.
Hub flange nuts. are re-reusable. Provide thread not loose on stud (worn). But we do need to use, medium Loctite (thread sealer).
