brake bleeder power

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2fpower

2fpower

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Does anyone have a brake bleeder unit that we can borrow for a couple days????

We had a drum brake rebuilding day on Saturday, and could not get rid of all the air in the lines. After reading the posts, it seems that we should try a power bleeder.

Thanks,

Kelly
 
Sequence

trainrech said:
What was your sequence? Should be pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front.
Click to expand...

It's not Driver's rear then Passenger rear? I figured the longest run would be the drivers rear, since the line goes back to the passenger side and then across the pumpkin to the driver's. Maybe the 40 is different than the 60. Can't remember now.

Ex
 
Thanks Duane. Can I meet you in KC on your way home from work?

We did every way possible, running 3 quarts of fluid through it. We rebuilt all of the cylinders, so there was a lot of air in the line, then, when we bled, I let the 4 tablespoon resevoir go dry once, so I introduced yet more air.

Yes, we did drivers rear, pass rear, pass front, drivers front -- three times. After reading all of the posts, we are going to try the pressure method, seems like this solves any air problems. If that does not work, we will swap out the master. I can't believe it is the master because once it is pumped up, there is not any slow petal travel to the floor -- I also don't think it is the flexible lines, because they typically cause the cylinders to freeze when they colapse internally.

Well, thanks and I appreciate any other guidance.

Kelly
 
Nope - same flex lines. They appear to be in good condition - no dry rot etc.

I"ve got a FJ62 disk front axle awaiting modifications to go under this fj40. I'm just trying to get a quick improvement for now. It all started due to one bad wheel cylinder and a crimped hard line. I replaced them and then saw that the other wheel cylinders weren't in great shape so we pulled them all, cleaned, and reinstalled.

Brakes work now after 1-2 pumps. Once it's pressurized the system holds pressure.
 
Last edited:
thats the way my 74 is with drums on 4 corners. 2 pumps and it stops on a dime. 1 pump it might stop
 
Anyone know a part number for flex lines we can order from NAPA that will work? I have called around, and no-one can find a part for the old 60's cruisers. Both Andrew and I are working on 67's.

Otherwise, I will head to $pector.

k
 
YES NEW FLEX LINES.. built a brake system went from 4 drums to 4 disks for evan krause.. Had it all done.. bled, etc.. Didn't stop at all! WE almost died.. New flex lines, SKIDDING to a stop.. the old lines flex inside and you cannot see the issue.
 
also.. did you properly bench bleed the master? if it's got air in a section it wont' work that well..
 
Erik-

On the master -- I was told that the power bleeder forcing fluid back up will solve that problem. What I did for now is to go to the front wheel cylinder, fill it to the top with fluid, and forced the piston down (while I had the other side clamped shut) I could watch the master and it let loose some major farts!

Currently, the first time you drop the petal it stops about 3 inches from the bottom of the swing, and has good stopping power, the second drop of the petal stops about 4 inches from the floor. So, I think we are 90% there now.



Do you think I should still bench bleed it?
 
Oh, still looking for the flex brake lines with 9mm ends. The adapters are $6 a pop, so I am headed over to see if I can get some custom lines made over in Olathe tomorrow. Found on MUD a place that will make lines for $20 or so in CA -- that is my backup plan.

Kelly
 
I bleed all my stuff by myself without a fancy power bleeder(mainly cause I don't have one).. What I use is a cup with a clear tube attached. bleed till no bubbles go to next. Not familiar with bleeding backwards.
 
2fpower said:
Erik-

On the master -- I was told that the power bleeder forcing fluid back up will solve that problem. What I did for now is to go to the front wheel cylinder, fill it to the top with fluid, and forced the piston down (while I had the other side clamped shut) I could watch the master and it let loose some major farts!

Currently, the first time you drop the petal it stops about 3 inches from the bottom of the swing, and has good stopping power, the second drop of the petal stops about 4 inches from the floor. So, I think we are 90% there now.



Do you think I should still bench bleed it?
Click to expand...


what ??
when i was in wagner brake tech school we never did it that way !
what are you clamping off ?? the rubber flex hose ? if so why !
and the bleeder i have is NOT a pressure bleeder it is a vacum pot
it's a one man bleeder setup (works kickazz)

kelly do you need a hand with this ?? brake work is just not this hard
 
techtafab said:
what ??
when i was in wagner brake tech school we never did it that way !
what are you clamping off ?? the rubber flex hose ? if so why !
and the bleeder i have is NOT a pressure bleeder it is a vacum pot
it's a one man bleeder setup (works kickazz)

kelly do you need a hand with this ?? brake work is just not this hard
Click to expand...


He's talking about filling the wheel cylinders by pulling the top piston and topping it off with fluid. After clamping the other wheel cylinder closed, reinsert the piston. The location of the bleed screws at the middle of the wheel cylinders instead of the upward facing end makes it impossible to get all the air out of the cylinder without doing this. You end up with a small pocket of air trapped at the top of the cylinder above the bleed screw.

Vacuum pot from the bleed screw or pressure pump from the master cylinder cap- both types of power bleeder work the same way (a whole lot better than bleeding by hand).

Right now the brakes are as good as they've ever been on this truck- it's definitely roadworthy. But since we've still got it in the shop it would be nice to power bleed them just to see if they can get any better.
:beer:
 
Duane-

Just to clear the air -- I never implied, by any means, nor intended to convey the notion that I was in any way intelligent!

k
 
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