Blown fuse? Radio, clock, and cig. outlet don't have power anymore.

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blake_fzj80 said:
I am on a camping/ wheeling trip with my '96 lx450 and having the same problem.

Heater/clock/ radio not working out of the blue.

all fuses tested fine.

Is there a fuse behind the CIG lighter?

Sent from my XT907
Click to expand...

You even looked at the "dome" fuse for the clock and radio?

There is a separate fuse behind the cig socket.
 
Just wanted to share some info on the cig. lighter issue.

The small "fusible link" on the back of the lighter socket is repairable.
You can see the bad spot in the picture where it is blown.
I was able to un-crimp the remaining good section and strip off a little more insulation, then re-crimp it.

lighter closeup.webp

Note: This held for a few years, then went intermittent. I just squished the crimp some more and all is good again.
If this happens again, I'll try removing that insulator disc between the two plates and be done with it.

I believe that is actually a thermal fuse for protection in case the cigarette lighter fails to pop out.

Oh, and FWIW, I experimented with removing/reinserting my "CIG" fuse and there was no arcing/sparking. (with the radio on or off)

lighter closeup.webp
 
Gents, blessings be upon you and thanks so much for these good tips. The Gyd Wyfe reported that the radio and clock in our venerable 1997 FZJ80 "Tank" had quit simultaneously last Saturday, and I suspected that a 50W trouble light I had plugged into the cigarette lighter/accessory outlet might have been the culprit. (Then I read the above thread outlining how the radio, clock, and cigarette lighter all run off the same fuse -- in #1 position at upper left of the columns of fuses [labeled "CIG" on little diagram on inside of fuse panel cover].) Sure enough, yesterday evening when I checked it, it was blown. I keep a little Ziplock baggie with a couple dozen spare blade-type fuses of all amperages in the bottom of the center console just for such occasions, so we were back in business immediately.
 
I have a similar problem. Checked fusible links and all other fuses, but no power getting to radio, clock, mirrors, cig lighter. Didn't know about the link on the back of the cig lighter until reading this thread--so I will check that tonight. So if the link in the back of the cig lighter blows, would one lose power to the mirrors, radio, clock, mirrors too? I think not, but I'm hopeful that the cig lighter turns out to be the culprit in my case. Thanks.

Jason
 
the fusible link on the back of my cig light blew from a USB charger. I removed the isolator disc and all has been well since. I just make sure I use a proper fuse in the fuse block, and run my inverter off the battery directly.
 
The 10A was burnt out on mine and used my spare to replace and now clock, radio, etc are working perfectly. Thx
 
The clock and radio,door mirrors all worked on my 97 lx450, the cig lighter did not even though it still lit up with the headlights.[seperate circuit} I removed the cig lighter ,squeezed the ends of the curly fusible link with small pliers and wah lah cig lighter works. fwiw
 
I know it's been a few months since the last post on this topic, but I've just had a recent experience, and conducted a google search and found this thread..

I ran across the same problem of no radio power, no cig and no remote unlocking. The front driver door would unlock all of the rest with a twist of the key, and the interior driver door lock switch would also unlock all of the doors. The power seats worked as well. I hadn't checked the power windows or mirrors nor the domes.

All of the fuses next to the steering wheel ohmed out.

Then I saw the post about checking the dome fuse next to the battery. Sure enough, the 10A fuse was a goner. I replaced it, and all is up and back the way it's supposed to. So this is a shout-out to Tpham32

I had just wired in a subwoofer where the factory 'subwoofer' had been and somehow managed to short out the long hot lead I had connected behind the stereo....

94 FZJ80
 
67cruiser said:
I know it's been a few months since the last post on this topic, but I've just had a recent experience, and conducted a google search and found this thread..

I ran across the same problem of no radio power, no cig and no remote unlocking. The front driver door would unlock all of the rest with a twist of the key, and the interior driver door lock switch would also unlock all of the doors. The power seats worked as well. I hadn't checked the power windows or mirrors nor the domes.

All of the fuses next to the steering wheel ohmed out.

Then I saw the post about checking the dome fuse next to the battery. Sure enough, the 10A fuse was a goner. I replaced it, and all is up and back the way it's supposed to. So this is a shout-out to Tpham32

I had just wired in a subwoofer where the factory 'subwoofer' had been and somehow managed to short out the long hot lead I had connected behind the stereo....

94 FZJ80
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Where is the factory amp located ? I have some what of the same issue but it blows every dude I put in it. Been trying to track down a direct short
 
retrofive said:
Factory amp -> front PS kick panel behind the glove box.
Factory sub (at least for the 93-94 LC) -> Rear PS quarter panel next to the crappy sub speaker.

The LX line up I believe are in the center console.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Having bad sunroof drains probably shorted out the amp
 
Moose1776 said:
Thanks. Having bad sunroof drains probably shorted out the amp
Click to expand...
I should clarify the amp is to the right of the glove box. Easiest to remove the kick panel and glove box to get access. There are couple controller boxes in that area. Its been to many years since I removed mine to say which one exactly, but a little searching here will show you.
 
Happy to have found this thread; I've been tracking/tracing this exact fuse problem (cig lighter, domes, remote locks, etc) for a few months to no avail. One mech traced it allegedly to the base plate of the middle dome light; went for another opinion who now has a "circuit-breaker-resettable-fuse" in place to see if the problem can occur enough that the ultimate culprit actually presents itself.

Will keep the thread posted on what I find.

FWIW as of one month in, the circuit-breaker-fuse-thing seems to be keeping this particular circuit working; still don't know which thing kept the fuse popping beforehand. It would pop at the oddest times, even just sitting overnight... hmmm.
 
A word of caution to all of you throwing fuses around. If you are blowing fuses you NEED to spend the time to learn how to diagnose where the short is then FIX it or take it to a qualified mechanic who KNOWS how to diagnose and can FIX it. Putting higher than called for AMP rated fuses in place of blown fuses is not a fix and can result in frying wires (costing money to fix) or worse a vehicle fire.

Ask me how I know....
IMG_20160701_204936336_zpsewfygkaz.jpg


Previous owner melted out the fuse box by doing exactly what you shouldn't. I was lucky enough to have to fix it all.
 
SmokingRocks said:
A word of caution to all of you throwing fuses around. If you are blowing fuses you NEED to spend the time to learn how to diagnose where the short is then FIX it or take it to a qualified mechanic who KNOWS how to diagnose and can FIX it. Putting higher than called for AMP rated fuses in place of blown fuses is not a fix and can result in frying wires (costing money to fix) or worse a vehicle fire.

Ask me how I know....


Previous owner melted out the fuse box by doing exactly what you shouldn't. I was lucky enough to have to fix it all.
Click to expand...

Yup, short story, it popped for a reason.
 
Toyote said:
Happy to have found this thread; I've been tracking/tracing this exact fuse problem (cig lighter, domes, remote locks, etc) for a few months to no avail.
Click to expand...
FWIW, the cig. lighter and dome lights are normally on separate circuits, unless perhaps the wiring for the lighter socket has been re-routed to the "DOME" circuit for always-on power.

It's hack-jobs like this that can cause these kinds of problems. If your lighter receives power when the key is OFF, this would indicate that the circuit has been modified.
 
@Toyote , did you ever find your problem? I just replaced my BJ2 Connector because it melted and blew the dome fuse. Now that looks good but my dome fuse keeps blowing and my door unlock feature doesn't work, but all other locking functions, including with the key, work fine. I removed my aftermarket alarm and repaired several wires. Not sure where the problem is.
 
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