Blown fuse? Radio, clock, and cig. outlet don't have power anymore. (1 Viewer)

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I was working on the 80 today, sanding down the areas around the 8 factory roof rack holes to fill them in. A buddy had a 125 watt inverter so we stuck that in the cig. outlet to power a sander. It worked for a minute or two and it suddenly stopped working. First thing came to mind was the fuse on the inverter blew...no. Second thing came to mind was the cig. outlet fuse...no. So now I am clueless. Where should I start checking? The only accessories that do not have power are the clock, radio, and cig. outlet. Thanks guys. I will post a thread later on what I did for the holes. No welding or bondo...
 
Hi, Check fuseable links at the battery. Also check fuses left of steering wheel . Mike
 
Its the fuses by your left knee, happened to me a couple times.
 
I checked every single of them and even replaced them, still no power.
 
You may have blown the outlet itself. Happened to me. Thought it was fuses at first. My electrical engineering friend was messing around and took apart my outlet, something was definitely fried. It was like this ceramic base. I just so happen to have a spare Toyota one from a Celica that I ripped out from the junkyard, swapped in the non fried base, outlet works again.

Lesson learned, don't run anything powerful into the outlet, just so straight to battery if absolutely need to, use adapter.


Though I can't explain your clock or radio.
 
The radio, clock and cigarette lighter are all fed by the 15A "CIG" fuse.
 
The lighter socket itself has a small fuseable link on the back that more than likely got toasted.
 
The radio, clock and cigarette lighter are all fed by the 15A "CIG" fuse.

I understand that. I checked that fused too and it even arched when I put it back in. So the fuse is still working.
 
Guys. I'm on the same boat. I'm stoked that this thread got a few more replies than mine. I'm thinking of opening up a few places on the dash and close to the fuse box to check why I have a few electrical gremlins cruising around. I've never done electrical work on a vehicle. I'm scared that I will fry something in there. The wire that is connected to the 20 amp fuse labeled (gauge) looks to have lost its protective coating. I just don't know how much if it got fried going down that wire. I also need to look at that fusible link behind cig lighter. Didn't know there was a link there.
 
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The lighter socket itself has a small fuseable link on the back that more than likely got toasted.

Did not know that, thanks! I'll check that asap.
 
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I understand that. I checked that fused too and it even arched when I put it back in. So the fuse is still working.

It arced??? Probably not a good thing.

Was the ignition (key) off when you did this? That'd really be not good!
 
It arced??? Probably not a good thing.

Was the ignition (key) off when you did this? That'd really be not good!

Why is that such a bad thing? Its just like when you plug in an electrical outlet into the wall socket and you can see it arc or when you attach jumper cables to a battery...it just shows that electricity is going through. The ignition key was on.
 
Why is that such a bad thing? Its just like when you plug in an electrical outlet into the wall socket and you can see it arc or when you attach jumper cables to a battery...it just shows that electricity is going through. The ignition key was on.

"Who are you, so wise in the ways of science?"

So you say you have power but you have no power.
I would suggest picking up a meter at your local Radio Snack or similar then learn how to use it. Pick up the FSM and EWD for your truck and do some real diagnosis.

The 15 amp CIG lighter circuit powers a variety of items, all of which are on your list of things that no longer work. They include:
auto antenna
airbag sensor
cig lighter
clock
radio and amps
side mirrors
shift interlock ECU

The 15 amp CIG lighter circuit gets fed from AM1 which is a fusible link off the positive battery terminal. However, if AM1 was blown you would not be able to start the truck.

Check fuses with a meter, not your eyeballs.
 
If the fuse sparked when you installed it, you could have popped it again. You should always install a fuse with power off. I was using an inverter on a road trip and had the exact same thing happen, replaced the fuse, all fixed.
 
landcrshr said:
The "GAUGE" fuse is supposed to be 10Amp! You carry a fire extinguisher, right?

Uummmm. I'll have to double check. I may have stated 20 amp, and you may be correct on the 10 amp. One thing I'll find out today.

Btw. My car was wired with a whole bunch of after market cig lighters connectors. It had a double din gps touch screen stereo with second row DVD system, and a back up camera. It also had a viper alarm and existing factory alarm that I deleted awhile back.

And my antenna can be made to go up and down independent of the stereo being off or on. So when I turn stereo on the antenna does not go up. I have to press the button to cause to go up. Can this cause issues????

One of my big questions is if this wire that has lost its coating can be replaced?? Or what to do with it????
 
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It arced??? Probably not a good thing.

Was the ignition (key) off when you did this? That'd really be not good!

Sorry I meant sparked, not arced.

"Who are you, so wise in the ways of science?"

So you say you have power but you have no power.
I would suggest picking up a meter at your local Radio Snack or similar then learn how to use it. Pick up the FSM and EWD for your truck and do some real diagnosis.

The 15 amp CIG lighter circuit powers a variety of items, all of which are on your list of things that no longer work. They include:
auto antenna
airbag sensor
cig lighter
clock
radio and amps
side mirrors
shift interlock ECU

The 15 amp CIG lighter circuit gets fed from AM1 which is a fusible link off the positive battery terminal. However, if AM1 was blown you would not be able to start the truck.

Check fuses with a meter, not your eyeballs.

The sparking was just an observation... I remember that I took out the "dome" fuse so my courtesy lights wouldn't drain the battery while I had the doors open for a long time. Plugged it back in and the clock and radio work just fine, which leads me to believe that the fuse behind the socket itself is the problem.

If the fuse sparked when you installed it, you could have popped it again. You should always install a fuse with power off. I was using an inverter on a road trip and had the exact same thing happen, replaced the fuse, all fixed.

I installed the "dome" fuse with the power off today and it still sparked....
 
It arced??? Probably not a good thing.

Was the ignition (key) off when you did this? That'd really be not good!

Means that there is a load on the circuit as you plugged it in.

Either the fuse is blown again, or something upstream has blown.

Get a multimeter, figure out how to use it, and test things.
 

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