Bj40 edic motor ground showing positive charge (1 Viewer)

[David Funderburk]

I have a 1980 bj40 and I'm having some electrical issues.
I won't bore you with all the details but recently I've been having difficulty with it starting, like a dead battery. So trouble shooting I found out the body of my 40 is showing a positive charge, 12v but only with the ignition in the on position. So I start pulling fuses trying to isolate the problem. Turns out the heater and engine fuse have a positive charge on both side of the fuse with the fuse removed. So after much searching turns out a, white/black stripe, ground wire that goes straight to the edic motor and is grounded at the fender is the source of the short but the only thing I can figure is that the edic motor has a short. Has anyone had a problem like this?

 

[duncanrm]

Are you using a digital multimeter for this? Because you'd be much better off with a Test Lamp.. a digital multimeter in this environment can give very misleading readings.

 

[OKCBJ40]

Are you using a digital multimeter for this? Because you'd be much better off with a Test Lamp.. a digital multimeter in this environment can give very misleading readings.

Actually I'm using an analog multimeter but I'm not sure how this could be giving a false reading.
Apparently I have two log in names.

 

[bj40green]

Hmmmm, battery negative goes to engine, chassis and body.
White/Black stripe is ground at all times.
How did you test this? In other words; where did you put the black lead and where the red lead?
Is your truck 12V or 24V (Canadian)?

Rudi

 

[OKCBJ40]

Ok so I disconnected the neg battery cable. Placed the black lead on the neg battery post and the red lead on the ground wire coming off the edic motor and it showed approx. 12v on the meter.
I've been trouble shooting and I don't believe it's the edic. If I pull both the heater fuse and engine fuse the body of the vehicle is not longer showing a charge. On the battery side there is a white wire with a blue line that I have isolated as the power source of my problem but clearly the short doesn't occur until it passes the fuse box(I think).

 

[OKCBJ40]

And it's a 12v from New Zealand.

 

[bj40green]

Ok so I disconnected the neg battery cable. Placed the black lead on the neg battery post and the red lead on the ground wire coming off the edic motor and it showed approx. 12v on the meter.

I don't know what the purpose of this test is, but what you're doing is useless.
You disconnect the negative and yes, then everything else is positive. Your meter is now in series with the whole electrical system and shows voltage.
I don't see the relation between "difficulty with starting" and this test.

What problem do you have with starting?

Rudi

 

[tornio]

Ok so I disconnected the neg battery cable. Placed the black lead on the neg battery post and the red lead on the ground wire coming off the edic motor and it showed approx. 12v on the meter.
I've been trouble shooting and I don't believe it's the edic. If I pull both the heater fuse and engine fuse the body of the vehicle is not longer showing a charge. On the battery side there is a white wire with a blue line that I have isolated as the power source of my problem but clearly the short doesn't occur until it passes the fuse box(I think).

good morning , like bj40green said your test is useless , when you test some tension the first thing is : in respect of what ?

with the key in on position some load are connected and of course measuring between negative pole and chassis you see the positve side "going or retuning" to the negative pole.

you don't have a really short... this is sure because you would have a burned fuse or wire .....

to measure a tension connect the tester in parallel

to measure a current connect in series ( like you have done) and be sure that max amper you suppose flowing is less than the max amper the tester can sustain or the fuse in the tester will fire

to see if there is a current flowing put a anmeter in series between positive battery pole and positive cables ( leave connect negative pole) but do this with key in off position off course ...

cheers

the starting issues would be an edic related problem or maybe a battery problem or air into the fuel line but you have to explain us what probem ? what symptoms ?

 

[OKCBJ40]

You guys are right. It turns out my alternator is bad and no one here in Oklahoma can find parts to rebuild it.

 

[tornio]

.. ok .. (sorry for delay) but what is out in the alternator ?

check the brush if worn replace ( simple operation ) and take the inductor to any machine shop to have it machined .

only for example

Carbon Brush For DAIHATSU 27371-56070 27371-56070,China Auto Parts,buy Carbon Brush 27371-56070 from gasgoo.com

27371-56070 - Genuine Toyota BRUSH, ALTERNATOR

but before do this test whit the help of Toyota manual:

test diodes with a multimeter

test the inductor

test the field

if one of those worn out i think is cheaper find a new alternator, maybe for you in the states an Isuzu parts with vacuum

... Toyota repair manual show how to perform all the operations i wrote...


cheers

 

[tornio]

...to be honest when i change the brushes i didn't find the toyota one's but a pair from another japan car (maybe Mitsubishi) that were bigger and with the help of a " rasp " i could fit them.

as usually : poor man fixing !! hihi