Builds BJ 45 restoration Greece (1 Viewer)

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That's a great find!
Really impressd!

PS. It seems that the clever Japs did equip their 4WD vehicles for the european market with LSD diffs. My 1983 Daihatsu F20 (same as Toyota Blizzard, bought in Fürth, Germany) did have a factory LSD too!
 
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That's a great find!
Really impressd!

PS. It seems that the clever Japs did equip their 4WD vehicles for the european market with LSD diffs. My 1983 Daihatsu F20 (same as Toyota Blizzard, bought in Fürth, Germany) did have a LSD too!
Hi Greek cruiserhead. I don't know if it was for the European market or it was special order because of the tow truck needs...
 
Could be, as all these BJ45s have been ordered by the Danish Rescue Organisation "Falck" back in the day. All these vehicles do have VIN numbers that are very close, so they should belong to the same order.
 
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That's a great find!
Really impressd!

PS. It seems that the clever Japs did equip their 4WD vehicles for the european market with LSD diffs. My 1983 Daihatsu F20 (same as Toyota Blizzard, bought in Fürth, Germany) did have a factory LSD too!
Hey Greek Criuserhead. I believe my Daihatsu F50 came from the factory with LSD diff's to.
 
After i disassembled the axles, i ordered some things needed to be replaced, and had to wait for 15 days. After these days i went vacation for a week and July passed like that, without doing many things.

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I haven't taken many pictures to show how parts were before and after cleaning and painting, but especially cleaning, took me many hours...

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Another part needed to be replaced was this spider from the rear differential. I thought i couldn't find this one because it's an lsd, but fortunately there are shops that are very well equipped for our lc's....

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After the rear axle i began to think what to do with the front one. The adjustment of the front knuckles is very hard if you don't have the Toyota sst. I read a lot in manuals and internet and found out that no-one has found a way to adjust the knuckles right, without the tool. Some say that the shims are responsible for caster adjustment... That's totally wrong... Shims are only for the right knuckle centering and for the pivot bearings preload...
Somewhere i read that it doesn't need measurement. You just put one thick shim on the bottom and one or two thin shims on the top and you don't have a problem. HOW will you understand you don't have a problem;;;;😠😠😠.
The problems will come later when the oil seal will be damaged and the differential oil will come out from the knuckle seals. And the seal damage will be forced only when the front differential is engaged. All these, means that you may notice a problem at the front axle after 5000 km with engaged front differential (that means 50000km total for the most people).
The best thing to do is to put new pivot bearings, and put the same shims at the same places. The problem in this occasion is when you realise that previous owners had rebuild it wrong way. One knuckle of mine seemed to be untouched. It had damaged bearings and shims on both sides... The other one (which had new bearings) was with three shims under and none on the top!!! When the shaft came out, the axle inside was full of grease...
Tomorrow I'll come back with photos to show you how i adjusted the knuckles.
 
I put both of the knuckles as they were and started measuring. At start i put a scratch like you see in the fourth picture and measured the distances (red) from the seal pattern. the result is that both knuckles from factory design have a a little positive camber.

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Then i put a shaft 40mm diameter into the seal hole, but not to deep because 10cm deeper, there is a metal lip that is not totally centered (1st and 2nd picture). Then i measured the distance between the shaft and the knuckle as you see in the pictures. The difference in the knuckle that seemed to be untouched was almost zero. On the other side, the difference was 1,5mm and had to play with the sims to get it right. After two tries of different shim thicknesses i managed to make it right... I think it's the only way to measure the center right (without the SST tool). You have as a guide the seal hole that is totally centered and the slightly positive camber (which is the same distance from the center) doesn't affect the measurement. It seems really simple, but it's a little bit difficult to hold all these parts in right position, and measure them with the 0,01 accuracy.

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Another thing i did to confirm that i was in the right position, was that. I put the rocket inside out, (it matches perfectly) and visually inspect that it's centered. The difference before and after the shim correction was obvious even with this technique....

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Cleaning the parts, I found out a couple of things that needed to be replaced. The ball joint that was on the side that seemed to be reassembled had a crack as you can see. Also one of the pistons of the calipers was stuck and destroyed from the rust. So as I'm waiting
the new parts to arrive, i began to clean and restore parts...

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As i was cleaning the calipers i found out this note in the manual (last picture) that says: Never loosen the caliper bolts attaching the caliper halves.😮😮😮. So i decided to do as it says...

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