Best year 90-95 pickup

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About the only difference I can think of is Toyota went to a drive by wire throttle in 1992-1995 models. The extra cab 4cyls will have a weaker g58 5spd and chain driven transfer case as opposed to the much better w56 and gear driven case on the std cab models. Look for models with manual hubs instead of autos and ADD. If you live in a part of the country where rust is an issue check for frame rust at the rear spring hanger, especailly behind the gas tank.

I can't think of anything else.
 

KLF

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About the only difference I can think of is Toyota went to a drive by wire throttle in 1992-1995 models.

HUH???

My '92 4Runner had a regular old-fashioned throttle cable.

So does my ex-wife's '94 pickup.

So did the '95 4Runner that I did the HG job on.

Maybe I'm not clear on what you mean by "drive by wire"

I like the styling of the nose of the '94-95 trucks a little better.
 
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About the only difference I can think of is Toyota went to a drive by wire throttle in 1992-1995 models. The extra cab 4cyls will have a weaker g58 5spd and chain driven transfer case as opposed to the much better w56 and gear driven case on the std cab models. Look for models with manual hubs instead of autos and ADD. If you live in a part of the country where rust is an issue check for frame rust at the rear spring hanger, especailly behind the gas tank.

I can't think of anything else.

Well the g58 came behind ADD equiped 4cyls, which was pretty rare. Of course those did have the chain t-case and IMO it's no weaker than the gear unless you're making a trailered hardcore rig. Infact Marlin now makes crawler boxes for the chain cases so that argument is no longer valid.

Otherwise the w56 with gear t-case will be behind the 4cyls. Also the w56 is very pron to input bearing failures which will take out the input gear and counter shaft gear if it lets go. The front and rear countershaft bearings in the w56 are also pron to wear and make noise. I've gone through these issues with no less than four w56s.

I would opt for the v6. HG is about the only issue and not bad to solve. Power could be better but it's better than a 22re truck and gets just as good mpg's if the pedal isn't kept to the floor. The v6 will also have the far far better R series transmission but with the chain t-case.

Would you plan for a SAS or keep the IFS? Late model '95s had longer aluminum steering stops on the lower arms. Which is better than the old nylon covers method. Nothing important but worth noting for s***s and giggles. Also the v6 callipers got just slightly larger in '93 for bigger pads.

What year did r-134 show up in these? I want to say '93 but don't quote me. Otherwise the r-12 system will need to be converted, easy but the freon recovery and charge will be the costly part. The r-12 compressors are also smaller than the larger r-134 compressors, so when converted the system will be slightly less effecient.

There are also added crash beams the doors of '93-'95s.
 
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1995

I found and bought 1995 Toyota Pickup SR5,with an ext cab, power locks/windows, sunroof, abs, 3.0 V6 and 5 spd. Pro Comp stage 2 suspension lift(4 inch), 33x12.50 Interco TrXus MT tires(almost brand new!), 15 inch eagle alloys wheels, K&N cold air intake, pro comp stainless steel skidplate, yep its my first truck and im ready to go wheelin i think the 95 is the best =) (newb out-$5600) its got some rust on the rear courters and box, nothing to bad (little spots), none on the frame or rear shackles the front and cab is mint and new rear bumper a little ding in the valance but still im stokeeD. The motor has 330K with reg oil changes ever 5000k, no leaks what so ever, maintained very well from what me and marlin375 can tell
119_1949.jpg
 
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Nice truck, you're gona dig those tires. I'm watching my buddy's wear nice and slow, they stay soft & sticky even in the freezing cold. The K&N could be troublesome though, lets more stuff get by and makes it easy to suck in water. You did get the perfect color, looks awesome in black. :D
 
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Hi, I just a bough a 1992 Toyota Reg. Cab 4/cly. 5 speed, 4x4. 192,kmiles. Back bumper is off, has 3 inch lift kit, with 15 inch tires. My first toyota ever owning.. It is a dark maroon purple look. I think it runs/ good. the truck was red at first and they painted it the new color. I paid 1,800 for it.. Do you think it was a good deal... Underneath is some rust but under the hood, very cleanm, new starter, distrubertor, spark plus/and wires... has had a new oil filter on it.. but i really dont kno alot about toyota trucks... Can anyone give me some information on what usually goes out first... and are they reliable if you keep the oil change alot.... ??
 
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Every engine should have average oil changes for the engines health, does it leak any ?or make knocking noises? it has medium-highish km it should still have lots of life left in it, if you take good care of it, it is a toyota . o ya welcome to mud :D im a noob-let too :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:. Stick with oem parts, oem is the way it was designed and ment to do if you want it to last reall long, toyota style. unless you want a crazy 4x4 :grinpimp: GET PICTURES IF SO!! You could also run a dry/wet compression test to see whats up with your 4cyl's cylanders (like any other average vehicle). Were is the rust exactly?
 
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All the trucks were good, just STAY AWAY from the 3.0 (worst thing toyota EVER made!) they are weak, poor mpg, complicated to work on, and had HG issues mainly in hevier runners and auto's. The only good thing about the 3.0 truck is that it is an easy swap to the excellent 3.4.
 
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I dont have any issues with lose of power it has plenty enough it can pull 3 sleds with wells cargo and the engine isnt rocket science, whats the bill to swap to the 3.4? sure the gas isn't great 60$ bottom to top (stock tank) previous owner got 380km to a tank. Its faster than 93 80 but the 80 does have more torque and weighs alot more. Its modist to say its weak cause mine aint' and there not hard to work on unless your a space cadet.
 
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exhaust and intake

hey what do you recommend for headers and intake on a 3vz-e everything stock. was wondering if u can disconnect the r/s header that goes behind the engine and just run dual exhaust.
 

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