Beginning of radiator crack? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 17, 2018
Threads
5
Messages
50
Location
Massachusetts
Hi All!

Just wondering if you thought this was the first little part of the fatal crack in my radiator. I've been keeping an eye on it, but today I thought I saw a new little crack on the right side of the logo. It's really small if it's there at all. The car is a 2016 LC with about 95k miles, for reference. If it is on its way out, is there anything I need to specify to my mechanic about the upgraded radiator, or will they already know to replace it with the most recent version?

Thanks,
Jack

IMG_2213.jpg
 
Yes that’s the crack alright. I have a 2013 with 64k same issue. I’ll attach a pic of mine for reference. Have an apt with Toyota for radiator replacement, quoted $1000. Yay!

EE917D92-4D75-4B2E-9C22-C7EA9F6964DC.jpeg
 
Really not that hard of a diy job, if you're reasonably handy.
 
Bummer. Indie shop is quoting $1245 for replacement. I guess I'll tell them to go ahead and order the part. Thanks for the help.
I had indie shop quote the same, they were getting a Lexus radiator @ $560. Toyota came in the same, Lexus was more and then another toyota dealer came in at $1000 with OEM radiator. This is all central CT shops. Give a few places a call might save a couple bucks. I’d do it myself but radiator is $460 local Toyota so for 500 more I don’t have to make a mess all over the driveway.
 
Bummer. Indie shop is quoting $1245 for replacement. I guess I'll tell them to go ahead and order the part. Thanks for the help.
Put a JB weld radiator patch on it. I’ve had mine on for over a year and 15,000 miles. $15 and 15 minutes.

I didn’t wait for it to crack…saw the “witness mark” where it was expected to later crack, slapped a patch on it, and all good. The radiator may, otherwise, last 250k miles.
 
How much do those things tend to cost? I'm trying to watch my expenses, so it'd be great to avoid doing these if I could. On a scale from crucial for safety to only for obsessive owners, where do they fall?

They're not prone to early failure, but they're also very easy to replace while you have the radiator out. Just guessing, but probably under $250 for pump, accessory belt, and idler.

I also did the alternator proactively while it was out because the alt is a very difficult R&R with the rad in place.
 
If you’re not doing the job yourself, I would skip the pump and pulleys etc. unless trying to baseline everything. This isn’t a 100 series where all those parts should be replaced at once with a TB change. The water pump will leak if it’s getting on it’s last legs. Your mechanic will charge you by the book anyway so there isn’t a “while you’re in there” discount to be had just because the radiator is out.
 
Disagree on that. If you have an independent mechanic who is receptive at talking through the process, then yes there will be a 'while you're in there' discount. It's an hour at most to add the water pump to the job. True that most dealers will just look it up in the book, though I've been successful at negotiating down to as much as 50% off a job at a dealer by talking through the process. Replacing wear parts during a major R&R is just wise money in my book, but yes YMMV depending upon your perception of risk, budget, etc. At 95k miles replacing the original water pump isn't foolish money.

For a DIY this is a no-brainer. At least for those with scarcity of time to wrench.
 
Last edited:
I talked to mine about it and he suggested waiting as is wasn’t much of a difference to them with radiator out. He inspected while doing the radiator and said I’d be replacing good working parts that usually shown signs before failing. I had the money and wanted to baseline everything before going in and chose to take his advice instead.
Giving another perspective to OP who seems to be trying to save some cash. My truck and water pump are fine some 10k or so after replacing the radiator.
 
I talked to mine about it and he suggested waiting as is wasn’t much of a difference to them with radiator out. He inspected while doing the radiator and said I’d be replacing good working parts that usually shown signs before failing. I had the money and wanted to baseline everything before going in and chose to take his advice instead.
Giving another perspective to OP who seems to be trying to save some cash. My truck and water pump are fine some 10k or so after replacing the radiator.
This is all good data. Thanks to everyone for the replies. This makes me feel a lot more comfortable asking for quotes. Before this thread, I didn't know anything on the topic besides that the radiator cracks then breaks. Everyone has been really helpful. I'll probably hold off on the water pump, etc. for now, but I'll keep an eye on it in the future. If anyone has any other thoughts on the topic before I bring it to the dealership on Monday, awesome- otherwise I'll go in feeling like I won't get taken advantage of. Thanks, all, and have an awesome rest of the weekend. -J
 
had my done about 3 months ago 160,000 miles. Opened my hood for a pre trip check and the top was cracked. I had my mechanic install a Koyo unit and Asin water pump. I had been losing a small amount of fluid every 1500 miles is why I did the pump. Make sure you get the o ring at the top too. Mechanic had to go back in and fix that after about 2 weeks. spent 1800 plus.
 
I'll mention the o-ring. Is there a way of telling the new radiators from the old ones? I mentioned to the service rep at the dealership and he wasn't sure. Or is it safe to assume that if it hasn't been sitting on the shelf for years then it's an update one?
 
I'll mention the o-ring. Is there a way of telling the new radiators from the old ones? I mentioned to the service rep at the dealership and he wasn't sure. Or is it safe to assume that if it hasn't been sitting on the shelf for years then it's an update one?
Check the big PSA radiator thread for photos.. it is a very long thread but you can check the first few and last few pages for the relevant images. The new design has the raised flat area protruding less with more rounded edges, but it is a subtle difference.

Any Genuine Toyota radiator in the current parts system should be the new design. It was released in late 2018.

I’d avoid aftermarket. You’ll find rumors online that companies like Koyo make the radiator for toyota, that is not true. Toyota has a subcontractor type company called TRad that makes them.
 
had my done about 3 months ago 160,000 miles. Opened my hood for a pre trip check and the top was cracked. I had my mechanic install a Koyo unit and Asin water pump. I had been losing a small amount of fluid every 1500 miles is why I did the pump. Make sure you get the o ring at the top too. Mechanic had to go back in and fix that after about 2 weeks. spent 1800 plus.
What o-ring are you talking about? On the radiator itself?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom