Be Happy / Small Stuff (1 Viewer)

[LR LC200]

ALCON- Went to high-end restoration shop this past weekend and took in some auto-porn. Owner was friend of friend and my boys and I got the grand tour. High end German and Italian sports cars, x5 Land Cruisers (including a part by part built 70 series) and a 1 of 1 ICON four-door Dodge Power Wagon (look it up). Once we took that all in, I picked his brain on my 74' FJ40 that we had arrived in. To my surprise, he didn't want to sell me on a restoration but had some advice I had heard before (here on MUD)... Do mechanicals, easy cosmetics, and just drive it!

So, couple of things I want/need to do:

Fix leaks with a gasket kit for both transfer case and engine (at least rear main and pan)
Replace white hard plastic rear fender flares (passenger side broken) with unbreakable black ones
Replace 4 speed shifter outer boot and inner (?)
Adjust valves and see if it removes/reduces the missing, then onto DUI/HEI one-one wire distributor, if not.

So question; understanding that flares were aftermarket after PO cut wheel wells (yet it has skinny tires on it???) what brands do folks trust? Also; do I need inner and outer shifter boots for a 74'?
Opinions on DUI/HEI are welcome, but not dying the spend the $500 for one...

Thank You in advance.

LR

 

[LR LC200]

Oh ya, plates I'm able to have made by the OEM in the UK... They still have protective film on them. If nothing else, the FJ plate will be one big reflector as the builder decided they were not necessary on the nose of 74' and earlier...

 

[Strategic1]

Just a thought, put body deadner in the foot well area. Have done mine & really reduces noise, also did back cab & roof before headliner went in makes a difference & it's an easy job for you & the boys to do some bonding Cheers

 

[ginmtb]

I want to say @Fast Eddy did some flares that are metal and have a flatter profile and look really nice. If you stick with tall skinnies you may want to go that route.

And check out @Racer65 's store for replacement inner boots. The outer ones I believe are available still OEM. Contact @beno for those.

 

[cruiserkev]

Try the UB40 flares from Specter off road. I have 15 years on mine. They have been squashed many times on the trail and still look good.

 

[LR LC200]

Thanks All for the suggestions!

How about the DUI/HEI distributor? Actually goes for $349 @ Summit Racing.

Cheers,
LR

Davis Unified Ignition Toyota Street/Strip D.U.I. Distributors 80820BK

 

[65swb45]

Toyota dizzy with Pertronix installed.

 

[65swb45]

And if you're running skinnies, I second @Fast Eddy wheelwell skins as a clean alternative to a full quarter panel repair.

 

[Fast Eddy]

And if you're running skinnies, I second @Fast Eddy wheelwell skins as a clean alternative to a full quarter panel repair.

I have one set currently available. You could probably get away with 10.5s and clear them. You can move them around a lot when deciding where to install them.

Possible Group Buy - Flat Steel FJ40 Rear Fender Protection

 

[LR LC200]

And if you're running skinnies, I second @Fast Eddy wheelwell skins as a clean alternative to a full quarter panel repair.

When you say full fender repair, do you mean to restore the wheel-we'll where it's cut or repair rust? I'm fine with it cut, no rust, but do want something back over where the old flares are...
Thx,
LR

 

[65swb45]

I have one set currently available. You could probably get away with 10.5s and clear them. You can move them around a lot when deciding where to install them.

Possible Group Buy - Flat Steel FJ40 Rear Fender Protection

Ed, I have been on the fence about these long enough. Sign me up for them. My son is going to Santa Clara in two weeks. I will ask him to try and pick them up for me.
Of course you know once I'm sporting a pair, you're going to have to do a second production run.

 

[LR LC200]

Oh I see how this works point out availability then scoop them up...

Ed how long before you'll fabricate more. Where are you at on pricing?

Thx,
LR

 

[Fast Eddy]

Ed, I have been on the fence about these long enough. Sign me up for them. My son is going to Santa Clara in two weeks. I will ask him to try and pick them up for me.
Of course you know once I'm sporting a pair, you're going to have to do a second production run.

Um, I believe the next run will be the fourth. My new supplier uses lazors.

The set I have left is not countersunk. You can get a bit and do them yourself, or use button-head screws for a slightly different look.

I'm sending you a PM.

Ed how long before you'll fabricate more. Where are you at on pricing?

They are $225 a pair if we can get a run of four going, but so far I've been ok with paying for the fourth set myself and sitting on them until someone steps up. Counter-sinking the holes is an extra $20, which is actually less than the bit you need to do the PITA job yourself. Post up on the other thread and I'll coordinate.

 

[65swb45]

I will make an exception and reply to your PM.

 

[65swb45]

Oh I see how this works point out availability then scoop them up...

Ed how long before you'll fabricate more. Where are you at on pricing?

Thx,
LR

I have waited this long;I can wait a little longer. Besides it's not like I have spare time right now either.

If you want them, please commit promptly. Since I need to ask my son for the favor, I prefer to ask sooner than later.

 

[LR LC200]

I have waited this long;I can wait a little longer. Besides it's not like I have spare time right now either.

If you want them, please commit promptly. Since I need to ask my son for the favor, I prefer to ask sooner than later.

Thank You! Very gracious of you.
Quick question for Ed and I'll commit.

Ed- Much discussion on moving axles in these threads. Is my geometry of a stock axle going to work as is? Current plastic ones are pop-riveted on and hoping that I'll be able to reuse existing holes, at least some of them... Think this is going to work for me? Mighty good looking product that I'd like to move forward with... You see on passenger side that last rivet is on tub side of seam vs. r/r fender.

Pls advise soonest.
Thx,
LR

 

[Fast Eddy]

Quick question for Ed and I'll commit.

Ed- Much discussion on moving axles in these threads. Is my geometry of a stock axle going to work as is? Current plastic ones are pop-riveted on and hoping that I'll be able to reuse existing holes, at least some of them... Think this is going to work for me? Mighty good looking product that I'd like to move forward with... You see on passenger side that last rivet is on tub side of seam vs. r/r fender.

I'm pretty sure they will be close. I don't drill the lower front hole for just that reason, so you can put it where you want. The others are punched. You will have to put a bend in the front of the steel as the tub is not straight at that joint.

If you wanted to do the work, it would be a good time to drill the perches and move the axle back an inch or a bit more. Make sure you think the driveshaft has enough spline, but I'd do it if I was adding flares.

You may also have to clearance the steel a little right at the corner of the gas filler. Not sure there. You'll be the guinea pig.

 

[LR LC200]

I have waited this long;I can wait a little longer. Besides it's not like I have spare time right now either.

If you want them, please commit promptly. Since I need to ask my son for the favor, I prefer to ask sooner than later.

Back over to you 65swb45... Too much for my application. I already notified Ed.

Thanks Again for your help!!!

LR

 

[swamp-thing]

I used some wheel spacers on mine and the result is acceptable -- not ideal but looks a lot better than skinnies with fender flares. I did use some spacers on the front to even things out as well. I figure if I ever go to wider rims and tires I just have to whip the spacers off and good to go.