Ball joints shot - tie rod end boots torn also. What else?

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Fwiw we’ve sold and installed the SuperPro poly control arm bushings with good results, we stock them all and many customers have been happy with them.
Any issue throwing a poly bushing in the frame when all the other bushings are OEM?
 
Fyi - you may want to steer clear of the 555 ball joints (pun intended). Last summer I replaced my originals (upper and lower) with 555 and beginning about a week ago the front driver side began making a popping sound and the boot on the lower bj looks unusually wrinkled when you turn the wheel all the way in either direction. Maybe its not the ball joints but I strongly suspicion it is. I believe napa makes a lower ball joint that might be a superior to the 555 (and likely more expensive) but I dont have any first hand experience.

I’d be curious to hear what you find is the culprit. We‘ve sold and installed tens of thousands of 555 Sankei joints over the last 25 years, I can count all of the warranties on a few fingers, literally. No different than an OE part, there are cases of premature failure. Could be related to manufacturing, often related to install, but by and large its super rare.

As doe the Napa joint, what in fact makes it better?
 
Any issue throwing a poly bushing in the frame when all the other bushings are OEM?

Most do all one at or another but it won’t cause an issue to mix.
 
I’d be curious to hear what you find is the culprit. We‘ve sold and installed tens of thousands of 555 Sankei joints over the last 25 years, I can count all of the warranties on a few fingers, literally. No different than an OE part, there are cases of premature failure. Could be related to manufacturing, often related to install, but by and large its super rare.

As doe the Napa joint, what in fact makes it better?
I installed them myself and torqued the nut to oem spec. I can’t understand how someone could botch a lower ball joint install but I do understand your concern.

My lc (the one that got new bjs) hasnt left pavement since install and I drive like a grandmother so I’m frustrated knowing that a good amount of hours and grunting is likely in my future.

Is this wrinkle normal during a full turn? Also, the top of the lower ball joint and retainer clip is covered in oxidation; is that normal? Thanks.
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I installed them myself and torqued the nut to oem spec. I can’t understand how someone could botch a lower ball joint install but I do understand your concern.

My lc (the one that got new bjs) hasnt left pavement since install and I drive like a grandmother so I’m frustrated knowing that a good amount of hours and grunting is likely in my future.

Is this wrinkle normal during a full turn? Also, the top of the lower ball joint and retainer clip is covered in oxidation; is that normal? Thanks.
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Looks like it twisted. As if maybe there was too little/no grease where the boot meets the lower knuckle interface and as the wheel was turned after install the boot grabbed on the knuckle and twisted itself.

Just a theory. 🤷
 
Well, upon further inspection, one of the LCA ball joint boots is damaged. Not sure how that happened. But I guess I need to see what the seller or eBay will do.

If they don't make it right on the ball joint boot shoot me a PM. I just ordered a set of OEM reboot kits and will likely only need one of them.
 
I installed them myself and torqued the nut to oem spec. I can’t understand how someone could botch a lower ball joint install but I do understand your concern.

My lc (the one that got new bjs) hasnt left pavement since install and I drive like a grandmother so I’m frustrated knowing that a good amount of hours and grunting is likely in my future.

Is this wrinkle normal during a full turn? Also, the top of the lower ball joint and retainer clip is covered in oxidation; is that normal? Thanks.
View attachment 2617923

Grease up the face where the boot needs to rotate.

The surface flash on the top of the joint is normal for any bare part under your vehicle, OE or aftermarket. You could hit them with some paint.

I'm not saying your joint isn't in fact making noise, it very well could be. I'm just saying that one noisy joint out of tens of thousands would be an outlier and not indicative of a quality control issue. We have issues with brand new Toyota parts too fwiw.
 
Well the control arms arrived today. Placed the order Saturday afternoon. Arrived at my door from Dubai today (5 days later). Eight days earlier than estimated.

I was super hesitant to order from PartsLane because they were cheaper than anywhere else I found but they appear to be legit. Compared any and all numbers with stock photos from PartSouq and it all matches up. They were packed SUPER well too.

Unless someone can give me something tell-tale to look for, I am going to assume they are genuine Toyota. Also got the tie-rod ends from @cruiseroutfit today. Honestly wasn't expecting to get them so quick I don't even have the lower number two bushings. I suppose if I am going to all this trouble it would be pretty dumb to leave worn out bushings in the frame. Can't wait to get these installed so I can start driving the LX again!View attachment 2617778View attachment 2617786View attachment 2617787View attachment 2617788View attachment 2617789
Parts envy! Hope you get the boot situation figured.

We like pictures of installs too;)
 
Here are some detailed pics of the control arms. I am inclined to think they are legit because this part is a lot harder to pass off as OEM compared to say an oil filter or spark plugs...
The welds look really good and they seem very solid. Also, there are some markings on them that I don't know would make it on a counterfit. Specifically an LC that looks like it's hand scribed on the lower control arm. Just a detail that I noticed on the photos on PartsSouq that also appears on these.

Upper Arm

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Upper Arms 2/3

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Upper Arms 3/3

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Lower Arm 1/3

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Lower Arm 2/3

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Lower Arm 3/3

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What was the final verdict on these things? Still thinking legit OEM?

yes I am saying they are legit. I’ve looked at so many pictures online to compare and even compared them to the one (so far) that came off my rig and there are enough little details that match that I’m confident they are OEM.

Also the price wasn’t actually much cheaper than partsouq maybe like $20. If they were significantly cheaper then I might be worried.
 
I don’t want to highjack the OP’s thread but just a quick question regarding ball joints and UCA/LCAs. Are the upper and lower control arms on the 100 the same? They look to be but with different part numbers I want to make sure before ordering. Also, has anyone had any experience with Febest? Thanks and apologies
 
I don’t want to highjack the OP’s thread but just a quick question regarding ball joints and UCA/LCAs. Are the upper and lower control arms on the 100 the same? They look to be but with different part numbers I want to make sure before ordering. Also, has anyone had any experience with Febest? Thanks and apologies
No, they are quite different.
 
I don’t want to highjack the OP’s thread but just a quick question regarding ball joints and UCA/LCAs. Are the upper and lower control arms on the 100 the same? They look to be but with different part numbers I want to make sure before ordering. Also, has anyone had any experience with Febest? Thanks and apologies
There are upper left, lower left upper right and lower right. Didn’t bother with Febest because I only wanted to do this once and where I have questions about aftermarket I don’t question Toyota.
 

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