First, I would turn the key and the engine would start but it wouldn't always stay on. A couple/few weeks later, I turned the key and the engine wouldn't turn over at all (nothing), but the lights work the gas gauge works. The batter is strong and the battery cables are clean. What seems to be the issue? Thanks!
Bad ignition switch? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jdewbfj40
- Start date
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Could be a bad switch. Fusible link, and fuses should be checked too. If you hotwire the starter solenoid and no start, then starter motor will need attention.
- Thread starter
- #3
One other thing: the ignition switch was very warm/hot when I held it to turn the key (it's not currently mounted to the dash). Thanks
That needs attention . They can get copper particles in them that can cause shorts.
- Thread starter
- #5
Copper particles, strange. Well, the fuses appear to be good. I can't tell if anything is wrong with the fusible link.
Do you think it's most likely the ignition switch?
Do you think it's most likely the ignition switch?
Probably.
There was a pic of a 40 ignition switch recently with copper or brass powder that had fallen out from wear.
Or the switch is just knackered and beyond redemption.
I think 40's ig switch failures are not uncommon.
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fjc-man
SILVER Star
As the old saying goes, “nothing is forever “. Stop for a minute, and imagine how many times that ignition switch has been cycled. So, you have an early version switch? Dash mounted?
I am having this same problem on a customers rig. I tried 3 aftermarket ones that I have used in the past with no problems. Then I tried 2 from Toyota. All 5 look identical. I pulled the owners original one apart to see how they work. It was an aftermarket replacement as well. If I push down on the spring loaded portion in the center it will crank. It only cranks in the first few degrees of turning in the crank position. I am hoping it is a bad batch. I have one more coming from Toyota from a West Coast warehouse. Hope that takes care of it.
i include a New OEM Pigtail assy. i hand make in house to exceed OEM spec's by 1 Gauge larger in size ..
i never have had a complaint only general hook up and wire color code inquires .,
my tracer Stripes are based off a 1972 USA Spec. .FYI
Early In-Dash Ignition Switch & Key Lock Cylinder Comes w/ OEM YAZAKI Service Spec. Connector Pig Tail & Solid Brass Terminals Kit FJ25 FJ40 / FJ45 Pickup 1956-1972 - VintageTEqParts.com
NOS Early In-Dash Ignition Switch & Key Lock Cylinder Comes w/ OEM FITS : FJ25 FJ40 / FJ45 Pickup - ...
vintageteqparts.com
- Thread starter
- #11
My fj40 is 1970 It's a basic dash-mounted ignition switch. It is not the original. It was replaced 5-6 years ago. There are 4 connectors on the back but only 3 have wires connected (attached photos).
Thanks
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column mount 74
- Thread starter
- #13
Mine is 1970.
If you want to know if it is the switch:
1. Buy another universal switch, they are cheap.
OR......
2. Take off the three wires and touch the BATT wire to the IGN wire and "hold" them together and temporarily touch the ST wire to them to see if it starts. Release the ST wire when it starts. Easier than hot wiring down on starter since you have switch loose. Release the BATT and IGN to stop motor. YOU are the switch
Report results for further tests. It's all easy.
1. Buy another universal switch, they are cheap.
OR......
2. Take off the three wires and touch the BATT wire to the IGN wire and "hold" them together and temporarily touch the ST wire to them to see if it starts. Release the ST wire when it starts. Easier than hot wiring down on starter since you have switch loose. Release the BATT and IGN to stop motor. YOU are the switch
Report results for further tests. It's all easy.
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- Thread starter
- #15
Thank you so much for the suggestion, Saguaro. I did option #2 and got the engine to turn over, so I have my answer. Now I need to decide which kind of new switch to go with. Thanks again!If you want to know if it is the switch:
1. Buy another universal switch, they are cheap.
OR......
2. Take off the three wires and touch the BATT wire to the IGN wire and "hold" them together and temporarily touch the ST wire to them to see if it starts. Release the ST wire when it starts. Easier than hot wiring down on starter since you have switch loose. Release the BATT and IGN to stop motor. YOU are the switch
Report results for further tests. It's all easy.
- Thread starter
- #17
Yes, started right up. My first hotwire job!
- Thread starter
- #19
Where do you recommend I purchase from? They seem much more expensive than that from what I've seen on SOR & Cruiser Corps
As far as "recommending", I can only say that if you have what is called, a universal ignition switch, they are available at most auto parts stores and Amazon. If you want a genuine Toyota switch, those places will probably have it. As you can see, a member above has it. So depends on which direction you want to go. Nothing "wrong" with either direction. One is for the purist, the other is for the practical/budget minded. You say it lasted 5-6 years. If you google "universal ignition switch" you will see many vendors. Your wiring and dash seem to be all ready for an exact replacement of what you had. No wiring, terminal crimping or splicing needed. That may or may not be a determining factor. Click on the word Amazon.
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