Aussie "Arctic Truck" on 35's

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cool thanks for the info I do know about fjsport hey by the way any trouble from RTA? I remeber when I was living in Sydney they were really cracking down on modified vehicles; mostly the racers (nisan skyline etc). any others mods need to be done except for the cutting; shocks etc?

RTA, all OK. A new NCOP (national code of practice) allows for 50mm tyres over OEM. I have a letter from Toyota allowing 33", so 35" now all good (letter covers ABS, ESC etc also:bounce2:, another requirement).

I modified front Bump Stops (slightly longer/softer), added Air Bags, that's about it, for now;);)
 
Looks good, but since I've already bashed that corner of the ARB on a couple of VW-size rocks, that add-on looks like it would be an easy target. I'd prefer that the flare taper off before it gets to the ARB - if possible.
 
glad to hear its ok sometimes those guys can be pretty harsh. hey how did you get a letter from toyota?? also why airbags over conventional lift? was it recommened by arctic trucks? I dont like airbags because they dont have the longevity. thanks again
 
glad to hear its ok sometimes those guys can be pretty harsh. hey how did you get a letter from toyota?? also why airbags over conventional lift? was it recommened by arctic trucks? I dont like airbags because they dont have the longevity. thanks again

Yes has 2-3" lift (Airbags are only inside springs to maintain lift with additional weight on). I had to pester Toyota a fair bit, doubt It would be that easy again, they are very tight on info etc, I only did it to keep the RTA happy.
 
Looks good, but since I've already bashed that corner of the ARB on a couple of VW-size rocks, that add-on looks like it would be an easy target. I'd prefer that the flare taper off before it gets to the ARB - if possible.

They are tough, but I would guess I'll eventually break them (easy enough to fix/paint again). Tapered above the bar would be the best option, but as the tyre stick out to the flare any reduction (the taper portion) would make it illegal herel.
 
Finished off and fitted the Bar pieces (hopefully they don't become sacrificial anode's on a rock
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) they streamline the flares in well now.

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very nice work on a good looking rig.
 
Finished shots, including new Snorkel.
Getting used to the look/feel of the 35's, looks a bit like a pimped Prado next to the Wife's in the last shot.

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Ballsbygm,
Did Fjallasport provide a template for the fender cuts or was this left up to you to figure out? They don't have much info on their website, how did you get proper parts and quote from them?
Thanks,
Nan
 
Ballsbygm,
Did Fjallasport provide a template for the fender cuts or was this left up to you to figure out? They don't have much info on their website, how did you get proper parts and quote from them?
Thanks,
Nan

Hi Nan,

No template, not really needed as they line up well, you can't go wrong (famous last words:lol:). I can provide you with more detail/photo's etc also, if you go down this path, just let me know.

Email Renir (Fjallasport CEO) his details are in this thread. Yes, very little info for the LC200 on the web site, but he will provide details costs etc and is very easy to deal with.

Cheers

Steve
 
I'm guessing it wont fit in that garage? :grinpimp:
 
I'm guessing it wont fit in that garage? :grinpimp:

JB,

Does it by about 1" :cheers: (with Rack on).

Another reason to rule out 37's though :D, or at least use that excuse to justify it to myself, as I'm used to the 35's already:p. It wouldn't take too much more to do, must resist:bang:
 
Ya know, these flares would probably allow one to run the stock Tundra A-arms with stock offset wheels.... no scrub, 11.5" of travel. The tough/expensive part would be getting the rear the same width... the right way would be to use a Tundra axle, but wheels spacers could also work.
 
now that might interesting...
 
Ya know, these flares would probably allow one to run the stock Tundra A-arms with stock offset wheels.... no scrub, 11.5" of travel. The tough/expensive part would be getting the rear the same width... the right way would be to use a Tundra axle, but wheels spacers could also work.

I am planning on doing exactly that, aquire a 200 series, get some high quality cutout fender flares, then run Tundra A-Arms and the 10.5 rear axle, put ARBs in both ends and run 35s. I had assumed that I would have to have the flares custom built, it's delightful that a solution is now available on the market.

If you want the ultimate in travel (16") you could run these (but they are probably too wide even for these flares and you would need spacers on the rear even for a Tundra axle).

Total Chaos Long Travel Suspension System for 2007+ Toyota Tundra


Now if only the TRD supercharger was released for the 200... :clap:
 
Nice work! - I've never really spent time here in the "hi rent" section of MUD, but I like the work you did & it looks like it's not your first time working with fiberglass.

Are the white sheets you seem to be using as forms a delrin material? I ask since I plan to do a little fiberglass work in my 80 & if the product(delrin?) you used is non-stick to poly based resins, then that would be helpful to know as I'm working....
 
Nice work! - I've never really spent time here in the "hi rent" section of MUD, but I like the work you did & it looks like it's not your first time working with fiberglass.

Are the white sheets you seem to be using as forms a delrin material? I ask since I plan to do a little fiberglass work in my 80 & if the product(delrin?) you used is non-stick to poly based resins, then that would be helpful to know as I'm working....

I used a low adhesive polyurethane tape (3M product), Glass comes off well and the tape comes off the car well also. Light coat of wax will help if a tight spot (I didn't need it). Only issue with it, if a hot batch it bubbles a little!
 

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