Aussie "Arctic Truck" on 35's
- Thread starter ballsbygm
- Start date
- Watchers 14
Very sweet! Other than the cuts and fender mouldings, did you have to do any other metal work? How did you keep the front tires from rubbing either the KDSS or the upper control arms? 37s next?
- Thread starter
- #7
No contact with the correct offset. Rework of front and rear as photo's show (could get away without rear work, but I wanted full articulation).
37" just won't fit
I'm happy with 35" I think the truck is now perfectly in proportion and works as it should.Beautiful! Hope to have that done before next winter. Looks so much better.
Did you have to cut to get those 34's to fit? What's the exact size? Which rims? Offset?
- Thread starter
- #11
Sbly,
NO issue at all with the 35's
, I could have fitted/run them with only minor mods on the street. I had a good lift, so with the wheels/increased offset, good to go. I went the extra so no issues under full travel off road.Handles great on road (hard to tell the difference), OFF ROAD, well.....feels like a new rig
You have done well to run 34"odd without rubbing. Do you still have UCA clearance and no other mods (I guess still on standard rims/offset?).
How wide are the 34's?
Got any photo's???
ballsbygm,
As for the rubbing, I had to cut the front mudflaps and I still have some rubbing on the KDSS bar when at a full turn to the left. I also have rubbing on the rear mudflaps when the tires are fully stuffed into the wheel well during offroading.
sbly
As for the rubbing, I had to cut the front mudflaps and I still have some rubbing on the KDSS bar when at a full turn to the left. I also have rubbing on the rear mudflaps when the tires are fully stuffed into the wheel well during offroading.
sbly
Any gearing changes?
very nice! hey did you do the cuts yourself? Are you a bodywork/bodyshop guy? curious about rust proofing etc very nice work paint looks factory new! very nice job
- Thread starter
- #16
No, Aircraft Engineer (but have done some s/metal work, could not earn a living from my Tin skills though!).
This rework was simple enough, all cuts etc were primed/paint protected.
Below is the rework from the cut photo, then inner trim fit giving about 3" more clearance from original guard lip (it was level with Flare lip originally).
wow you are brave!! I would not be able to cut like that; very nice work; so did you get everything from arctic trucks??
- Thread starter
- #18
Finished off the Bar add on's today (just paint to do), started with just the cut off profile and needed to build each side (set time each side, about 2 Beers
). Note the white tape, handy little accessory, as seen in the cut pic's (will get to that).
You can see the inner guard trim still removed for Bolt access, I built the Glass up to about 1/4" thick, very solid as advised and required here (not Steel, but next best thing). Now back to the "Tape" it's 12" 3M Polyurethane, low adhesive (time expired from Work so free, no idea normal cost?) very handy as it only just sticks to the paint (almost like strong static). I used it for marking applications (great for a dark car), NO scratch implications for drilling, Jigsaw etc. It's best application though, Fibreglass and Bog can be profiled/filled without release agent and it pops straight off the Flare and Paint with ease, best money not spent
See below, used this trick a fair bit
You can see the inner guard trim still removed for Bolt access, I built the Glass up to about 1/4" thick, very solid as advised and required here (not Steel, but next best thing). Now back to the "Tape" it's 12" 3M Polyurethane, low adhesive (time expired from Work so free, no idea normal cost?) very handy as it only just sticks to the paint (almost like strong static). I used it for marking applications (great for a dark car), NO scratch implications for drilling, Jigsaw etc. It's best application though, Fibreglass and Bog can be profiled/filled without release agent and it pops straight off the Flare and Paint with ease, best money not spent
- Thread starter
- #19
NO, All from Fjallasport (just down the road from Arctic Truck). Better Flares, way cheaper and will deal with you. Arctic want your Truck in Iceland to do the Mod (just a little bit far from Australia!!!).
They do use Arctic Truck Wheels, but FJallasport organise these also. Prices are good, Freight is OK. I could pay more for after market Wheels here, so this was a viable/only option (only Wheels I could find with correct rating/offset etc etc).
A handfull of Guys around the world are now starting to go down the same path, not as difficult/costly as one may think
cool thanks for the info I do know about fjsport hey by the way any trouble from RTA? I remeber when I was living in Sydney they were really cracking down on modified vehicles; mostly the racers (nisan skyline etc). any others mods need to be done except for the cutting; shocks etc?
