I was actually going to do this a while back, but I got busy doing.... nothing. But now that you bring it up, maybe I’ll give it a shot this week!
Attic racks made cheap and easy - 80 series (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I was actually going to do this a while back, but I got busy doing.... nothing. But now that you bring it up, maybe I’ll give it a shot this week!
If you get around to it, def post up. I plan on attempting it around February. Are you planning on hose clamps or fabbing some metal brackets to hold it? Reason I ask is I am literally driving through Wilmington in 3 weeks on my way to Rhode Island and if you do fab up some brackets...... maybe you fab up a second set.... and maybe i drop you off a 6Pack of a Texas craft beer lol.
- Thread starter
- #183
I did with a cargo net.
Did you feel there was enough headroom for the occasional passenger? if it was a metal rack?
- Thread starter
- #185
Partly why I used a cargo net didnt want metal that close. For me the driver side seat is always out and a fridge in its place. The passengers is most a dog platform but the platform is made for quick removal for a seat. Using cargo I can load it accordingly mostly very lite stuff because it does lack rigidity and it bounces off road
. Looking back because the seat option is only used once or twice a year I would be interest in something with higher capacity and metal with quick disconnect hose clamps
if needed for a seat.I have tons of grid so I will also do a little playing.
Partly why I used a cargo net didnt want metal that close. For me the driver side seat is always out and a fridge in its place. The passengers is most a dog platform but the platform is made for quick removal for a seat. Using cargo I can load it accordingly mostly very lite stuff because it does lack rigidity and it bounces off road
I have tons of grid so I will also do a little playing.
Good point with the quick removal using hose clamps. I was thinking i needed brackets to keep the rig "clean" looking, but the quick removal when family is in town or if someone tagged along for a road trip would be handy.
Im looking forward to diving into this hopefully before the 2 week road trip im taking, in which ill have my brother tagging along for 3 days. should be a good test. hopefully with a few of us tackling this in the coming months we may come away with a 'winner' setup
On 2nd row I will probably fab some type of bracket.... stay tuned! 6 pack of Texas Lager for a 6 pack of Coastal Brew? Even swap..... brackets are on me!
GREAT! Now we are in a “build-off” with LandCruiserPhil?! s***..... I’m going to get my asz kicked..... lol. All in good fun in hopes of creating yet another 80 series mod!
- Thread starter
- #189
I build mainly for my needs and welcome and support all idea and others willing to get out of the box. I look forward to what you come up with and if it works for me Im a buyer.
“Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.”—Frank Zappa.
- Thread starter
- #190
This what I have been using but needs improvement.
![IMG_6602[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1920' height='1280' viewBox%3D'0 0 1920 1280'%2F%3E "IMG_6602[1].JPG")
- Thread starter
- #191
My first look at using metal is a failure IMO
Even with the grid hanging down 1/4" below the door opening you only get 2" of storage
Goals-
Want people to sit in comfort without worrying hitting their head.
No worries about stuff hitting the driver in the back of the head
Options of more than 2" of storage depth
The latest with goals in mind
Flat brackets that bolt where the handle are now. Weld in 2 - 1/2" dia .120 wall pipe between brackets (only 1 pipe shown). This will give the clearance needed for passengers and 1/2" .120 wall gives good support spanning 48".
Next step go shopping at the Container Store to find metal wire baskets maybe 12" wide with flanges to hand between the rods. If the right baskets are found in the correct width and various depths Im thinking it could work. In a perfect world you would be able to set your rack/basket system with options that could side side to side and be easy to remove/replace.
Post up your positive input and thoughts
NOTE: Im not interested or will consider making more than one. This is a DIY project
Even with the grid hanging down 1/4" below the door opening you only get 2" of storage
Goals-
Want people to sit in comfort without worrying hitting their head.
No worries about stuff hitting the driver in the back of the head
Options of more than 2" of storage depth
The latest with goals in mind
Flat brackets that bolt where the handle are now. Weld in 2 - 1/2" dia .120 wall pipe between brackets (only 1 pipe shown). This will give the clearance needed for passengers and 1/2" .120 wall gives good support spanning 48".
Next step go shopping at the Container Store to find metal wire baskets maybe 12" wide with flanges to hand between the rods. If the right baskets are found in the correct width and various depths Im thinking it could work. In a perfect world you would be able to set your rack/basket system with options that could side side to side and be easy to remove/replace.
Post up your positive input and thoughts
NOTE: Im not interested or will consider making more than one. This is a DIY project
@Marine7 DEAL!!! lol
@LandCruiserPhil since im not home to work on this, ive been brainstorming ideas, and the best i can come up with is fabbing up permanent brackets in-place of each grab-handle that will receive the wire rack. I will then fab the wire rack itself to have a bracket at each end that will rise 4-6" and attach to the permanent brackets in place. this will allow the shelf when installed to be 4-6" of space for long roadtrips, but when home and DD i will remove the rack and the brackets will not hinder passengers. due to the lack of overhead height the only options I see are a permanent shallow rack or a removable deeper rack.
@LandCruiserPhil since im not home to work on this, ive been brainstorming ideas, and the best i can come up with is fabbing up permanent brackets in-place of each grab-handle that will receive the wire rack. I will then fab the wire rack itself to have a bracket at each end that will rise 4-6" and attach to the permanent brackets in place. this will allow the shelf when installed to be 4-6" of space for long roadtrips, but when home and DD i will remove the rack and the brackets will not hinder passengers. due to the lack of overhead height the only options I see are a permanent shallow rack or a removable deeper rack.
REALLY quick sketch
I think the important part to this sketch is that the depth of the rack comes from the bracket on the shelf, so it is completely removed thus giving full headroom to passengers even when entering the rig when the shelf is removed.
I think the important part to this sketch is that the depth of the rack comes from the bracket on the shelf, so it is completely removed thus giving full headroom to passengers even when entering the rig when the shelf is removed.
Last edited:
I see what your doing, that looks like it will work!
The situation I’m in is— I want to take my protective barrier, and have it “swing up” and attach to the grab handles on the B pillars. It would be used more at night to be able to put my clothing, and what not, up there to keep it out of the way. Then in the morning I get dressed, swing barrier down, set seat backs up.... and away I go! My barrier is already hinged on my rear attic rack, so I just need to figure out a quick and reliable latching system to hold shelf up.
I’ll post some pics here soon!
Do you sleep in the truck? so your barrier is hinged to the 3rd row rack, then hinges up to create 1 full length rack spanning from B pillar to tailgate. This sounds really cool, and fits your specific needs perfect.
Exactly...... that way the rear “full time” rack can stay packed, and I’ll have plenty of room on the “temporary” shelf.
I know this is an old post but I am curious as to how you secured the bottom of the barrier and your long term use.
Is it just a Rachet strap around the whole back bench?
How do you like it now that it’s been over a year?
Yeah I just ratchet strapped it to the mid row seat. I had intentions of fabbing up something better but never got around to it.
I actually pulled that portion off and left the top only. It’s not bad for what it is, but it’s no replacement for a real cargo barrier.
What do you feel is disadvantageous to this over a real cargo barrier?
Without any kind of frame it’s just not very sturdy. I’m sure with some basic fabrication it could be ok but the way I mounted it wasn’t great for strength.
I just used some hose clamps at the top and a strap on the bottom.
