- Thread starter
- #41
Christo?
Arms VS Brackets...
- Thread starter alkaline747trio
- Start date
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No on the caster bushings. The clearance on the axle and the arms was not enough. No old stock available.
- Thread starter
- #43
So nothing is left of the old arms...that sucks. Someone go and upgrade so I can buy your used arms!!
I'll throw a desenting oppinion in. You have 4" springs, but 5" of lift? Is that 5" over worn stock springs that were ridding one inch low o begin with? If so, you need to correct for 4" of lift not 5-6". If I was going to go drop brackets, with slee's 4" springs, I'd use 4" drop brackets and no caster bushings. I'm running the 3" brackets with J's. And everything works the way I want it to. Next guy might get strung out about loosing clearance over the same lift with a different caster correction method. That's the next guy's balance of compromises.
Anyway, I don't see where you have enough lift to need 4" drop brackets plus caster correction bushings. Also, without caster correction bushings, you should actually get a bit more flex out of the bushings with drop brackets cause you're not using it up as much with the fore / aft movement of the other options when they articulate. I can't quantify how much more.
Several people have gotton lucky running the Slee 4" springs, and the arms for the 6" lift. Lucky in no driveshaft mods. Certainly it does give the advantage of more clearance for same lift. But if you're not going for big time rock crawling (relative to where you can fit a 6,000lb tank) - I think you could go either way and be happy. Well, as long as not following the crowd doesn't make you unhappy.
Anyway, I don't see where you have enough lift to need 4" drop brackets plus caster correction bushings. Also, without caster correction bushings, you should actually get a bit more flex out of the bushings with drop brackets cause you're not using it up as much with the fore / aft movement of the other options when they articulate. I can't quantify how much more.
Several people have gotton lucky running the Slee 4" springs, and the arms for the 6" lift. Lucky in no driveshaft mods. Certainly it does give the advantage of more clearance for same lift. But if you're not going for big time rock crawling (relative to where you can fit a 6,000lb tank) - I think you could go either way and be happy. Well, as long as not following the crowd doesn't make you unhappy.
- Thread starter
- #45
Walking Eagle said:
I am trying to correct for 6" of lift because of that. I don't want the headaches of a CV shaft, and my pockets can't handle that ATM.
Nope its another 80series I had, which is going under a 60series body ( check Project Uranus in 60s tech). The one you sold me just got new meats put on and a tune up. 
she's in good hands brotha...no worries.
she's in good hands brotha...no worries.
alkaline747trio said:
What are the headaches of a CV shaft? I don't get this. It's like four bolts at each end to drop and replace a driveshaft, and they are little tiny bolts, and then you have the type of driveshaft (double cardan) that should have come on the 80 in the first place. Slee's caster plates rotate the pinion so it is inline (0 degrees) for a CV shaft. This is part of the 4" kit.
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/80_suspension.htm
Let's talk cost:
$300 for CV shaft
$140 for caster plates
$20 for welding?
($100) for selling old driveshaft
That's around $400 for a far superior solution. You can even have your driveshaft built locally so you can have them work out any kinks without mailing back and forth.
You get a brand new driveshaft with brand new joints, proper caster correction, and a solution that you know is designed for the springs you already have. Or you can spend $200-$300 more on arms and hope it works right, or $500+ on a drop bracket system to give back a bunch of clearance that you are gaining with 36" tires. What am I missing here?
Nay
- Thread starter
- #50
I'm just reluctant to do the plates and CV shaft. Partially because of stubborness, but also because I don't want to have to trim a whole lot for the tires. I know the arms work, but I don't know if the plates work for the 36" tires, nor if the brackets work for the tires or the drive-line issues.
I guess I'm just out for a set of used Slee arms, and if that doesn't work then I'll bite the bullet and do the plates and double-cardan shaft.
I guess I'm just out for a set of used Slee arms, and if that doesn't work then I'll bite the bullet and do the plates and double-cardan shaft.