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Next time, get a cheese grade socket and hammer the thing onto the "lock" lug.... you'll soon realize why locking lug nuts are a bit of a joke. When you get the lug off, another hammer blow against the ground will separate the two.

Works the same with even a 12 point socket.
 
Next time, get a cheese grade socket and hammer the thing onto the "lock" lug.... you'll soon realize why locking lug nuts are a bit of a joke. When you get the lug off, another hammer blow against the ground will separate the two.

Too be honest not sure what a cheese grade socket is? My son bought a used Mustang once that didn't have the key for the locking lugs nuts. Hammered a Harbor Freight impact socket on and removed them. Back in 87 bought a new Pathfinder, didn't realize Toyota was switching to a automatic in 88. Dealer had installed locking nuts. Went to rotate the tires and couldn't get them off with the lug wrench that came with the vehicle. Went to the dealer and had them remove them. Figure I would let them screw with them. Last thing I wanted was to be on the road and had a flat and unable to get the locking lug nut off.

Here are he was dealing with the lock on the same tire winch. Completely different lock and not as hard to get it off. Like the way our 4Runner and Sequoia work. Back hatch has to be open to get excess the the winch.
 
I have an 2003 toyota tacoma 5 speed manual transmission r150f and 4x4 transfer case from a 3.4 v6 ext cab truck. Low 120k miles, great shape. Clutch pedal, master, flywheel, clutch, shifters, front driveshaft, rear driveshaft front section from ext cab are included. Most everything needed for a manual or 4wd conversion in a 4runner or tacoma or prerunner. Also available are the front ADD 4x4 hub assemblys and ADD 4.10 front diff

Sold

Kyle
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I have an 2003 toyota tacoma 5 speed manual transmission r150f and 4x4 transfer case from a 3.4 v6 ext cab truck. Low 120k miles, great shape. Clutch pedal, master, flywheel, clutch, shifters, front driveshaft, rear driveshaft front section from ext cab are included. Most everything needed for a manual or 4wd conversion in a 4runner or tacoma or prerunner. Also available are the front 4x4 hubs and 4.10 front diff

Asking $1100

Kyle
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If I wasn’t in the middle of a move, I’d buy this entire setup from you... Assuming the hubs you’re referring to are the manual locking hubs, would you consider selling those to me separate from everything else?
 
If I wasn’t in the middle of a move, I’d buy this entire setup from you... Assuming the hubs you’re referring to are the manual locking hubs, would you consider selling those to me separate from everything else?
No they are not the manual hubs, just the typical ADD spline hubs. I should probably clarify that.
 
Found the part number and dealers here even show they can get it. Ordered and was told none in the US and may take a while. Have no doubt would come back and say they were unable to get from Toyota. Ordered a couple from Partsouq. Ordering two even with shipping was cheaper than what one with shipping would have cost here.

@Honger All I can say is wow. Parts I ordered Sunday morning arrived yesterday. I've ordered from Amayama Trading before and waited for a shipping quote for a couple of weeks. Never got a quote just an Email saying they didn't have the parts available at this time and check again later. Some parts I knew were NLA but they showed a price. Others I was able to source from other vendors. First time I've dealt with Partsouq. Know the part number and their site will let you know if they have it in stock and how many they have.
 
I have used Partsouq quite a bit lately. Quick shipping and good prices. I even picked up the heater hose replacements to the rear heater on the 80.
 
I’m looking for a 68-73 FJ40 if anyone knows of one other than what’s on here, Craigslist, and OfferUp. Needs to have a decent body and the hardtop. Other than that I’m not picky. Thanks!
 
BFG KO2s with 7k miles on them and DT certs. Considering changing to a 255/85R16 MT...
I might be interested if Jackson passes on them. Can you send me some pics of what you have so I can be sure?
 
Alright CSC'ers, I need to clear some crap out of my garage for some upcoming projects. Prices are negotiable.

Army Cot - $20

Thule Summit Roof top Box - $100 - haven't used it in over a year





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More stuff I need gone.

2 gallon DOT Air Tanks - $20 - I bought these as surplus from a buddy's employer who makes class 8 suspension systems. I am going to use one in each of my rigs and thought I could pass them on to the club for what I paid.
5 gallon DOT Air Tanks - $30 - Same story...

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Drawers for 80 Series.

I built these last year and have used them since, but I and going to change them up again in order to lower my fridge and implement some new ideas. The drawers and box sides are made of 3/8" ply, and the top is 5/8". 36" 500lb slides, which are way overkill, but it is what it is. The slides cost me $150 new, which is all I want out of them. The drawers slide out a full 36" and you can really pile a lot shine-ola in there. They have side wings in process, but I didn't like the idea once I put it into play, so I stopped. All the bits go with them and I will help you install them. They are made to screw down into your rear deck using existing captive nuts in the floor, or you can just let the weight hold them there. They height of the drawers is made to form a level sleeping surface when the 2nd row seat is folded forward. I slept in there many times and the location of the sliding rear window allows you to vent the rig for condensation. If no one wants them, I'll soon bust them up and reclaim the slides, latches and what wood I can.

My top three pros:
  1. Cheap
  2. Strong, overbuilt
  3. Sleeping platform ready

My top three cons:
  1. Overbuilt, heavy
  2. Located my fridge too high
  3. latches tend to squeak if I don't put a blanket between them and the tail gate.

Cheers.

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Drawers for 80 Series.

I built these last year and have used them since, but I and going to change them up again in order to lower my fridge and implement some new ideas. The drawers and box sides are made of 3/8" ply, and the top is 5/8". 36" 500lb slides, which are way overkill, but it is what it is. The slides cost me $150 new, which is all I want out of them. The drawers slide out a full 36" and you can really pile a lot shine-ola in there. They have side wings in process, but I didn't like the idea once I put it into play, so I stopped. All the bits go with them and I will help you install them. They are made to screw down into your rear deck using existing captive nuts in the floor, or you can just let the weight hold them there. They height of the drawers is made to form a level sleeping surface when the 2nd row seat is folded forward. I slept in there many times and the location of the sliding rear window allows you to vent the rig for condensation. If no one wants them, I'll soon bust them up and reclaim the slides, latches and what wood I can.

My top three pros:
  1. Cheap
  2. Strong, overbuilt
  3. Sleeping platform ready

My top three cons:
  1. Overbuilt, heavy
  2. Located my fridge too high
  3. latches tend to squeak if I don't put a blanket between them and the tail gate.

Cheers.

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I do not have an 80 series but curious how close these are to fitting in a 60 series? Overall length, width and height?
 
Alright CSC'ers, I need to clear some crap out of my garage for some upcoming projects. Prices are negotiable.

Army Cot - $20 - I have tried many cots and have found one I like.
Thule Flat Top Ski/Board carriers - $20 - Been in my storage for years
Thule Summit Roof top Box - $100 - haven't used it in over a year

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I’ll buy the Thule flat top ski carriers if there’s a way to get them to Tempe in the next couple of weeks.
 
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