Are Toyota CV / Double Cardan Joints Rebuildable?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Hi everyone, I´m having hard times with my 3” lifted HJ61 front CV cardan. I assumed that the CV-joint needs new U-joints, so I took the cardan away and took it apart. Now it seems that CV-joint needs more spares than just a CV Ball kit and U-joints – only the H-part of the CV-joint OK. Actually it looks like previous owner has tried some DIY fix for the same problem.

Replacing CV-joint isn´t problem in a dedicated drive line shop nearby. However, I have found very difficult to find replacement parts for the Toyota CV-joint. Rockford Driveline has complete CV Head Assembly in their catalog (item #421), but I can´t find a single place where to buy them. I have contacted Rockford via email, but haven´t got any answer. I tried the NAPA Auto parts, but the webstore isn´t open European customers. Can anyone help me finding a replacement joint assy?

View attachment 1402570

View attachment 1402572

View attachment 1402573

View attachment 1402574

Were you able to get your CV rebuilt?
 
Damn... Are you still trying to get a hold of Rockford Driveline? I was planning on ordering the CV joint to modify a drive shaft. I've found that certain Tacoma's have the correct CV joint if you don't mind going with a used part. Some of the 80-series are getting drivetrain vibration after installing lift kits and the solution was to modify the driveshaft with a CV joint from 4runner or Taco (I can't remember off-hand; but I'll update this post w/a link when I find it).

Here's some related info:

Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions
 
Last edited:
Anyone know if the ball seat is rebuildable? I wasn't sure if there was a solution based off the previous thread.
My u-joints seem fine, just the ball seat that is loose and rattling.
 
I replaced mine, totally rebuilt the joint on my 19980 truck. It was a pain to get out as there was a lip around it that was pressed in from the factory. I had to get creative with a grinder and Dremel to get the old parts out. Once all was removed assembly was pretty easy. I had to replace the drive shaft yoke as the pin that goes into the ball was chewed up.
 
Just an update to a 15 year old thread... It appears that the flange I used is NLA. However, the ball seat kit is still available from various vendors on RockAuto for $36, Moog 613 or SKF UJ613. I still have this original shaft I rebuilt as a trail spare. Hopefully this thread helped someone over the years.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KTP
Back
Top Bottom