Anyone regret buying E rated tires?

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Toyota recommends 29 PSI and you cannot run 29 PSI on an E rated tire. I spoke to Discount tire who installed these E rated tires. They said to maintain at least 40 PSI on E rated tires.

E rated means it is a light truck tire with a max pressure is 80 PSI. The construction of the tire is rigid with many plies (I believe 10) are used to build the sidewall interlayers to hold heavy loads and keep 80 PSI pressures. These 10 ply sidewall interlayers should not flex like a C rated 6 ply tire. When they do, it tends to weaken the construction/interlayer design of the sidewall.
29 on WHAT tire?
Almost guarantee they were talking about OEM or close to it.
If you actually want proper recommendations you need to go to who MAKES the tire and ask them directly.
And a stock vic PSIs can and usually are way different than say one of our trucks with bumpers/skids/sliders.
A couple of hundred extra pounds is going to raise that PSI number on regular "passenger" tires.

And you 100% CAN run Es at 29.
Should you for long periods? Probably not.

The truck is 53/47 in stock form. Gonna change when you start adding stuff to it.

These are on the "same" tire. Brand and model the same, just one is passenger and one is E. More data points for more informed choices.
Stock weight and tires.
1769716812536.webp

With +800lbs
1769716914590.webp

E rated stock weight.
1769717183014.webp

+800lbs
1769717231557.webp


From what I've found. E is overkill for almost everyone.
+ Extra sidewall protection. 10 ply
- Weight and more needed PSI to keep a good contact patch while on the highway.
But if you run the pressures too low you reduce the mileage they are supposed to be capable of by like 1/3 to 1/2.

C is kinda the sweet spot. 6 Ply (Or D for 8 Ply)
More sidewall protection than regular passenger but less than E.
Less weight than an E and less PSI for highway.
Softer ride than the E.

Passenger: Fine for stock. Usually 2 Ply
- Less sidewall protection.
+ Way less weight and PSI for highway.
Softest ride of the bunch.

But also the tendency to puncture sidewalls where you plan to wheel matters.
Dealing with a harsher ride vs not popping a tire off-roading.

If I get 33s for my trip this summer I will be trying to get Cs. Will post results/options in here or dedicated thread or my build thread if I do.
 
interesting info... the Goodyears I bought to put on my new wheels are C-load rated, 6 ply, but still 80 psi max pressure...
1769723338144.webp


I've only ever run E-load tires since I've had my LX (285/75-16 KO2's first, then cooper discoverer AT2), and I'm not entirely sure that I'm going to appreciate a "squishier" sidewall. The LX already feels WAY too squishy on turns, even with the valving on the suspension kept on the highest sport setting. Guess we'll see though. These new tires on the much lighter wheels should lose about 10 lb per corner in rotating mass vs my current setup.
 
I have about 160,000 miles on E-rated BFG KOs. I loved them... 'til I put the same size BFGs on a 4Runner - but C-rated. That ruined my 100. Now, those same tires feel like bricks. The next set will be C-rated 275/70/18s (though not BFGs). This is the first time I've wanted to see my tires wear out ;-)

Edit: In case it wasn't obvious, I've had several sets of E-rated BFGs on my 100. That was obvious... right?
 
interesting info... the Goodyears I bought to put on my new wheels are C-load rated, 6 ply, but still 80 psi max pressure...
View attachment 4076934

I've only ever run E-load tires since I've had my LX (285/75-16 KO2's first, then cooper discoverer AT2), and I'm not entirely sure that I'm going to appreciate a "squishier" sidewall. The LX already feels WAY too squishy on turns, even with the valving on the suspension kept on the highest sport setting. Guess we'll see though. These new tires on the much lighter wheels should lose about 10 lb per corner in rotating mass vs my current setup.
I think that was a typo. It shows 50psi max on the Goodyear website for both Q and S speed rated tires (GY Territory MT). But some E-load tires have a maximum pressure rating of 65psi and some D load tires have a max pressure rating of 50psi.

tire.webp
 
29 on WHAT tire?
Almost guarantee they were talking about OEM or close to it.
If you actually want proper recommendations you need to go to who MAKES the tire and ask them directly.
And a stock vic PSIs can and usually are way different than say one of our trucks with bumpers/skids/sliders.
A couple of hundred extra pounds is going to raise that PSI number on regular "passenger" tires.

And you 100% CAN run Es at 29.
Should you for long periods? Probably not.

The truck is 53/47 in stock form. Gonna change when you start adding stuff to it.

These are on the "same" tire. Brand and model the same, just one is passenger and one is E. More data points for more informed choices.
Stock weight and tires.
View attachment 4076860
With +800lbs
View attachment 4076869
E rated stock weight.
View attachment 4076877
+800lbs
View attachment 4076878

From what I've found. E is overkill for almost everyone.
+ Extra sidewall protection. 10 ply
- Weight and more needed PSI to keep a good contact patch while on the highway.
But if you run the pressures too low you reduce the mileage they are supposed to be capable of by like 1/3 to 1/2.

C is kinda the sweet spot. 6 Ply (Or D for 8 Ply)
More sidewall protection than regular passenger but less than E.
Less weight than an E and less PSI for highway.
Softer ride than the E.

Passenger: Fine for stock. Usually 2 Ply
- Less sidewall protection.
+ Way less weight and PSI for highway.
Softest ride of the bunch.

But also the tendency to puncture sidewalls where you plan to wheel matters.
Dealing with a harsher ride vs not popping a tire off-roading.

If I get 33s for my trip this summer I will be trying to get Cs. Will post results/options in here or dedicated thread or my build thread if I do.
The issue is C is very limited. Almost non existent for 16” wheels and also anything 35”+ tire.
 
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