Another soft top bow dimension thread (1 Viewer)

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I’m re-working some very rough soft top bows that I bought from a local club member around 2009 or so. They worked okay but I never had a middle bow and some of the fabrication was a bit rough so wanted to clean them up and make them nicer.

I did a fair an amount of searching but couldn’t find what I was looking for

Currently I am looking for the distance between the top and spreader of the most rearward bow. As well as the distance down from the apex of the bend to the side bar mounting tabs. I am using an older paki-top from Ehsan.

Here’s a picture of the rear bow measurement I’m looking for. Thank you!

IMG_2301.jpeg


IMG_2302.jpeg
 
Not sure the issue. This style of bows were never offered in the US market. These style was only offered on the two piece ambulance doors. If you have the back ambulance doors the height is determined by the upper hinges. The rear upper bow fits all the way down to the top of the wheel well. That double T bow fits on the lip for the hard top. Because these are not US import bows and they are a lot of aftermarket bows imported from Pakistan can be sure if it OEM height. With the Pakistan bows came aftermarket canvas tops.

I have US imported bows OEM bows and an aftermarket back double T piece just in case I can locate the two piece ambulance doors made for soft top models. This is the two piece doors
bbaDSCN1896a (912 x 684).jpg


Here is a soft top bows and doors from a 69.
001011.jpg

The back bow is shorter than the shorter to the 67, 73 and unknown year I have. Believe it may have been cut down to match the Kayline top.
20211031_141055.jpg

It's closer to bows from a 61 FST rear bow which a different style top.

I have three Kayline tops. I bought new in 1994. These one is obviously older than that.

Not sure why you need for this measurement? Factory this set with no adjustments. Are you having a custom top made?

IMG_20200912_133952339.jpg
 
Thanks for the reply. Not having a custom top made, nor am I having any issues... I’m using a paki top and the fabric loops under the second tube of the rear bow and velcros to itself.

Not using ambulance doors either so I’m not adding the side “T” pieces which go down to the tub.


I’ll take some pictures later tonight.
 
You’ll be fine with or without that cross piece. I have a paki top and OEM bows w no lower cross bar and it isn’t an issue. The flap of canvas that Velcro’s to the bar is just there hanging out. Might be nice to have the cross bar to add some rigidity.
 
You’ll be fine with or without that cross piece. I have a paki top and OEM bows w no lower cross bar and it isn’t an issue. The flap of canvas that Velcro’s to the bar is just there hanging out. Might be nice to have the cross bar to add some rigidity.
This was my second thought. They are oem bows and pretty thin in some areas so could use the additional rigidity.
 
Not using ambulance doors either so I’m not adding the side “T” pieces which go down to the tub.

Curious about piece running down to the tub. Is this one single piece or multiple pieces. Mine is clearly an aftermarket piece. There is a smaller piece used to sleeve the horizontal section together. Sure this was to reduce the size for mailing.


This was my second thought. They are oem bows and pretty thin in some areas so could use the additional rigidity.


When I bought my first FST it was how rigid the the are that sold me on the factory bows. With the bows install with all correct fittings I can stand on the running board and rock the cruiser side to side and the bows do not flex. This is without that extra piece in the back. It was after this I started collecting factory bows. In 2009 bought a set of factory bows and a black Kayline top here on mud for $200. I didn't jump right away but after a couple of days with no interest I bought them.
 
Curious about piece running down to the tub. Is this one single piece or multiple pieces. Mine is clearly an aftermarket piece. There is a smaller piece used to sleeve the horizontal section together. Sure this was to reduce the size for mailing.





When I bought my first FST it was how rigid the the are that sold me on the factory bows. With the bows install with all correct fittings I can stand on the running board and rock the cruiser side to side and the bows do not flex. This is without that extra piece in the back. It was after this I started collecting factory bows. In 2009 bought a set of factory bows and a black Kayline top here on mud for $200. I didn't jump right away but after a couple of days with no interest I bought them.
Don’t you miss that pricing? I bought mine for around $100 and a brand new paki-top for $350 from a club member that changed his mind.

They are certainly Rigid but I had to weld up some holes so I know they are thin in some areas.
 

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