Another rear brakes thread (1 Viewer)

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So I am trying to finish up my rear axle build. It's got all new shoes, wheel cylinders, e-brake bellcranks, and I am trying to get it set up right. I was going to have the drums turned but the shop recommended against it as they had been resurfaced to the maximum amount already.

Whatever, it should still work for braking.

I have the brakes just about ALL the way in (via the star mechanism) just so that I could put the drums on. Without the e-brake on they turn fine and all sounds good. Now when I apply the e-brake there is no difference in how easily the drums turn. The adjusting nut in the cab is adjusted just about all the way down.

Is there another adjusting point for the parking brake?
 
So are you saying you REPEATEDLY pulled the e-brake to move the adjusters and they didn't adjust?

If you have the adjusters screwed to their shortest length, when you pull the e-brake you should hear a CLICK-CLICK-CLICK of the adjusters working, until the shoes are at the proper point. At that point you should feel just a slight drag on the wheel when you spin it by hand, and the e-brake (at the handle) should take about 6-7 clicks to solidly stop the wheel.

If you're not hearing the CLICK-CLICK from the adjusters being turned, then something is fubar'd
 
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If I remember right, you can pull a rubber grommet out and adjust the parking brake "star" from behind with a screwdriver with the drum on.
 
I know about adjusting the shoes through the backing plate. But right now it's easier just to pop the drum off and adjust.

Spike, I'm not sure if I hear the adjusters clicking. I'm doing this by myself so it's hard to listen to the brakes in the cab. I pulled up the e-brake maybe 4-5 times. Should I put the shoes on and pull/release the e-brake several times? Is this how the adjusters work?
 
Should I put the shoes on and pull/release the e-brake several times? Is this how the adjusters work?

Yes... Adjusting through the backing plate is just to get them close.
 
Double yes -- when the adjusters have done their thing, you'll feel the e-brake handle tighten. Final, fine adjustment can be done at the knob on the handle.

If you can't hear them, turn down the Brittany Spears CD !

May take many more than 4-5 pulls, to get the shoes set. Depends on how backed off they were.
 
First, seeing that your (in cab) E brake has been adjusted right up, you need to back it right off, then forget it untill the adjustment is correct at the shoes.

Next, leave the adjuster at the shoes screwed right in, then fit the brake drum, retaining screw if it has one, and then fit the wheel and torque it up. This trues the drum to the axle flange.

Then adjust the shoes through the hole in the backing plate, untill the adjuster gets tight to turn.
Grab the tyre and try to turn it. It shouldn't turn, as the brake shoes should be adjusted hard on the drum. If it turns, crank the adjuster a bit tighter.
What this does is to center the shoes to the drum.

Now back the adjuster off through the backing plate. You will need to push the adjusting ratchet with a skinny screwdriver to
allow the adjusting wheel to rotate. Use a skinny screwdriver for that.
Back the adjuster off a few notches and see if you can now turn the tyre.
You need to have the adjustment so the tyre just turns without any drag from the brake shoes.

Do the same to the other side, then go into the cab and adjust the E brake.

Done
 
When I replaced wheel cylinders about 6 mo ago, I tried the "pull the handbrake over and over" trick to 'adjust' the brakes. When I got tired of pulling for what seemed like no effect, I did what GM60 suggests above. That tightened things right up, and my brakes perform flawlessly, including parking brake!

Butt
 
Wow, thanks guys! I'll go out and give this a try.

And Spike, do you really think I listen to Britney Spears? That's ridiculous. You should know I'm a tried and true Aguillera fan.
 
That's a relief! -- I was worried you were listening to Miley Cyrus. :D


:wrench:
 
Working on it right now. Finding that little adjuster plate and fiddling with the adjusting star is like THE g-spot of this project. Simultaneous stimulation is hard.
 
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That's why I do it the way I do it.
 
Working on it right now. Finding that little adjuster plate and fiddling with the adjusting star is like THE g-spot of this project. Simultaneous stimulation is hard.

GM60 gave you the real deal, so get crack-a-lac'in. If double stimulation makes you whine, well your future of passing your genetic code is in danger.

Rick
 
LOL !
 
Ouch.

I got them adjusted perfectly! I was actually going to move it out of the garage for the first time in almost a year but now I can't find any lug nuts. :mad:

Off to the store to hopefully find a few.

Thanks for the help guys!
 
Ouch.

I got them adjusted perfectly! I was actually going to move it out of the garage for the first time in almost a year but now I can't find any lug nuts. :mad:

Off to the store to hopefully find a few.

Thanks for the help guys!

That is hilarious Elliot!!!!!!! :lol:
 
M12 x 1.5 Lug Nuts.
 
No nuts + no g-spot skills = :crybaby:

So I just got back from the mountain and I wanted to crank her up and take it for a spin. It started up fairly easily after a jump but still no brakes!

If I pump it a few times there is good brake pressure but then after I let off of it for 4-5 seconds it goes straight to the floor. No leaks anywhere, master cylinder is full. Stock rear drums with new shoes and 4 runner calipers up front.

I wanted to pull it out and drive it but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't stop. In good news the e-brake is working great! Just gotta figure out the REAL brakes! :mad:
 
Time to bleed them. Bleed order is LR, RR, LF, RF.

Get ALL of the air out. Pressure bleeding works great.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 

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