The few that had no roof rack also did not have the ribs attached to the roof.
The sheet metal "humps" are there, but no actual ribs.
Another New FZJ 80 (LX) Owner
- Thread starter goingcamping
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The sheet metal "humps" are there, but no actual ribs.
- Thread starter
- #22
I’ve got the same truck, also bought mine from MN last July. I have the sunroof and roof rack tho.
I didn’t bother with brushing anything before having the chassis fluid filmed. You got a good price and doing the work yourself is saving tons of cash. My sons still several years away from driving age but I agree it would be a good rig. Needs to build some upper body strength tho!
Good luck with the rest of your build!
I didn’t bother with brushing anything before having the chassis fluid filmed. You got a good price and doing the work yourself is saving tons of cash. My sons still several years away from driving age but I agree it would be a good rig. Needs to build some upper body strength tho!
Good luck with the rest of your build!
)Sweet thanks! I’ve been looking for one that didn’t come with the factory roof rack, and there’s one I’m looking that doesn’t have it but does have the sliders. PO must’ve taken it off and filled the holes but kept the sliders
- Thread starter
- #26
Thanks!! What fluid treatment did you do?
It's actually called fluid film Automotive - Fluid Film - https://www.fluid-film.com/automotive-applications/
It's not a one and done type of thing, need to apply annually. Overly simplistic description is that you're basically coating your bits in a layer of wax that apparently has properties to neutralize existing rust (hence no need to wire brush). They also claim, which I'm inclined to believe, that it migrates so you don't need to get 100% coverage in the initial application, it will work it's way into crevices over time.
Definitely worth a look if you want to save yourself a lot of time on that wire brushing.
- Thread starter
- #28
Appreciate the explanation! I bought the KBS package (wash, neutralizer and sealer) I also used the rustoleum rust converter on the front of the frame before I mounted ARB Bull Bar, seems to work pretty good, but I also brushed pretty heavily. I bought a used set of CO panhard bars (F/R) and rear control arms in excellent shape. They will get scotch-brited, neutralized and sealed along with new polyurethane bushings and will replace the originals. I will hopefully be able to source some clean radius arms as the ones on are fairly rusty?
- Thread starter
- #29
One more item to add the the “to do” list..
Dash lights (stereo and shifter) are out. While not a huge priority, it will need to be addressed.
Is there a central bulb/fuse/relay?
Dash lights (stereo and shifter) are out. While not a huge priority, it will need to be addressed.
Is there a central bulb/fuse/relay?
- Thread starter
- #30
Been tackling items, slowly...my son's been helping.
What's been done thus far:
Wheels/Tires
ARB front Bull Bar
New exhaust (header to tailpipe)
Oil Change
Coolant Flush (actually was very clean, as the radiator looks new)
Coolant hoses (not PHH, yet)
Thermostat
Engine Coolant Sensor (still have CEL, need to clear it and see if the code comes back)
Plugs (Denso from Toyota)
Cap/Rotor
New Intake hose
Removed rear crossmember to remove spare, may leave it off (thoughts?)
Replaced DS window motor (works perfectly)
My son and I have wire brushed and treated 90% of the frame/attachments from rear doors back, frame is really solid, suprisingly!
Ordered and sitting in garage for the next free day(s)
TJM 50mm Springs
Caster Correction Bushings
New Calipers (x4)
New Rotors (x4)
New Brake pads (x4 er...8)
Ordered Bilstein 4600 24's (waiting on the front 2 to come in)
Front Axle Service Kit
Bought used Rear control arms and F/R Panhard bars, sanded and repainted, waiting for new bushings and installation (when we do the 50mm lift)
Curt Trailer hitch (used for $50, looks brand new)
Have not added it all up and not using 100% OEM as availability and practicality with 246,XXXmiles...only looking for 2+ years of service and maybe buy a more pristine example.
The Painted Arms:
What's been done thus far:
Wheels/Tires
ARB front Bull Bar
New exhaust (header to tailpipe)
Oil Change
Coolant Flush (actually was very clean, as the radiator looks new)
Coolant hoses (not PHH, yet)
Thermostat
Engine Coolant Sensor (still have CEL, need to clear it and see if the code comes back)
Plugs (Denso from Toyota)
Cap/Rotor
New Intake hose
Removed rear crossmember to remove spare, may leave it off (thoughts?)
Replaced DS window motor (works perfectly)
My son and I have wire brushed and treated 90% of the frame/attachments from rear doors back, frame is really solid, suprisingly!
Ordered and sitting in garage for the next free day(s)
TJM 50mm Springs
Caster Correction Bushings
New Calipers (x4)
New Rotors (x4)
New Brake pads (x4 er...8)
Ordered Bilstein 4600 24's (waiting on the front 2 to come in)
Front Axle Service Kit
Bought used Rear control arms and F/R Panhard bars, sanded and repainted, waiting for new bushings and installation (when we do the 50mm lift)
Curt Trailer hitch (used for $50, looks brand new)
Have not added it all up and not using 100% OEM as availability and practicality with 246,XXXmiles...only looking for 2+ years of service and maybe buy a more pristine example.
The Painted Arms:
- Thread starter
- #31
Just finished the front axle including new wheel bearings, new trunnion bearings, new grease, fresh diff fluid, new seals, felt etc...replaced rotors and calipers/pads. Took about 12 hours total, but ran into a few learning moments! This morning we got the rear rotors, calipers and pads along with replacing the DS rear hardline due to a split.
Bled the brakes starting at the PS rear, DS rear, PS front and finally DS front. While the brakes work well, the pedal still seems way to far to the floor, is this a common issue or do the collective 'you' think I need to bleed the brakes more?
TIA
Bled the brakes starting at the PS rear, DS rear, PS front and finally DS front. While the brakes work well, the pedal still seems way to far to the floor, is this a common issue or do the collective 'you' think I need to bleed the brakes more?
TIA
Did you also bleed the LSPV?
This thread popped up again recently and maybe helpful
forum.ih8mud.com
This thread popped up again recently and maybe helpful
Endless brake bleeding - And how to fix it
Hello all, I have been very grateful for this forum and the resources it contains. I purchase a 94 LC several months ago and have been learning a lot since then. I recently replaced every hard brake line on the body/frame and all of the soft lines, as well as the LSPV. I thought I would share...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #33
The drivers side got some love last few days. Put in new heater controls back lighting bulbs (x3), new lights in the ashtray, rear defogger, and antenna. New the bulb for the “D” has been ordered from Toyota! Tackle this week. Removed old steering wheel leather and put in a loncky from Amazon, looks pretty good over all things considered and it was my first one!
Also tackled the driver’s seat gears with brass ones!!
Also tackled the driver’s seat gears with brass ones!!
- Thread starter
- #34
Also, cleared check engine light…from a previous fix (thermostat and sending unit)
JohnnyUtah2
SILVER Star
Interested also…did not know if you removed the original leather cover before installing the loncky. Looks great!
- Thread starter
- #37
Dark Brown
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- #38
I took off PO’s leather cover. Factory one stayed on as I felt the new cover wouldn’t be tight enough? Seems to be about right?!
JohnnyUtah2
SILVER Star
Okay good to know! I’ve used Leather Steering Wheel Covers Manufacturer and Distributor - https://wheelskins.com/ in the past and had good results. I like the look of the loncky wrap.
- Thread starter
- #40
For $59 and a few hours…