Another New FZJ 80 (LX) Owner (1 Viewer)

[goingcamping]

So, got all the lights in the dash working, including the 'D' for drive. Took two times of removing the actual cluster. The stereo is a lost cause for lights as the best I can guess after disassembling is the LED lights are soldiered to the circuit board, not going take the chance of screwing that up. All the functions work including the 6-disc changer. (indoctrinating the kid with Jack Johnson, Pearl Jam (vs), Billy Joel, Soundgarden and Sublime). Bought some 1A Yakima gutter mounts and 58" crossbars on the cheap and mounted my Mega Warrior Yakima basket.

 

[goingcamping]

Also, went to Missouri to grab a LX rear hatch that had no rust, well a little around the nut-serts for the wind deflector, which I wire brushed, sanded, brushed and painted and swapped with the original. Reinstalled the wind deflector and third brake light, which now also works (did the diode replacement a few months back, but still didn't work in the original hatch).

OLD HATCH:

NEW HATCH (GARAGE PAINT JOB):

 

[goingcamping]

Used it to pull out my boat last week...towed it around the neighborhood as I couldn't use reverse due to no trailer lock-out for the surge brakes currently installed in the LX...Hitch is set-up for wife's Tahoe and we were just getting it ready for the lake...plus it's too heavy (5,200# w/ trailer) for the LX to tow!

 

[goingcamping]

Got a little time this afternoon to tackle the transfer case shifter. As of this point, I had not been able to shift the transfer case into N(eutral) nor L(ow). Got underneath and sprayed PB Blaster all over the joint and the transfer case lever areas. I then went from the top by removing all the console, shifting plates, boots, etc...

Was able to spray PB Blaster inside the shifter pivot point, still no movement. Got the shifting rod finally disconnected and was able to shift the transfer case from that!!!

Then got a cheater bar and worked on the shifter itself. I will say the inside the 'cup' part of the shifter looked brand new, there was zero corrosion. The plastic shims (for lack of what exactly they are called?) looked perfect! Started working it back and forth multiple times. It loosened a little bit a first, but then no more. I applied some red grease inside the cup area (not too much) hoping it will work it ways into the pivot shaft. Reconnected all the linkages, replaced all the consoles, replaced the shifter light bulb and viola, we now have 4L with center diff lock and ABS light!! Yatzhee!

I ordered the extension from Landcruiser Products with the hope shifting into N or L will get easier!

 

[goingcamping]

Got the lift, new radius arms (with caster correction bushes), new U/L control arms and track bar in the rear used all new Toyota hardware…well bolts/nuts/washers anyway!

Washed and buffed today!!

 

[BILT4ME]

Got the lift, new radius arms (with caster correction bushes), new U/L control arms and track bar in the rear used all new Toyota hardware…well bolts/nuts/washers anyway!

Washed and buffed today!!

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I like to see that you're doing the added safety of the anti-tip stands F/R while working on the lift.

Keep up the safety!

 

[goingcamping]

After addressing the front axle grease issue (I hope it was only the clogged breather assembly?), we installed spidertrax 1 1/4" spacers, front and rear O2 sensors (factory Denso units), new MAF sensor (I used the factory P/N when I ordered off Amazon; however, I am 100% certain it's a Chinese knock-off, but it does seem to work okay. I will keep the original as a back-up when this one fails). Cleared CEL and we'll see if it stays off? The only thing I can thing that will need addressed if the CEL comes back it the ECU? Otherwise, she run quite well...for what she is!!

 

[goingcamping]

Been chasing a CEL for a few months. Did all the usual tune-up items, replaced the thermostat and the engine coolant temperature sending unit. Still had CEL. Ordered a new MAF...replaced...still had CEL. Ordered new, factory O2 sensors, replaced and have had the CEL off for almost 100 miles...fingers crossed. Seems to run better, idle smoother and start 1/16th of a revolution faster (may be perceived?).

I only have a few items on my wish list to finish off. Rear axle fluid, finish addressing the rust from mid-->forward, replace rear sway bar (rust free/powdered coated on I bought off IH8MUD), replace LR door actuator and front sway bar (still needing to source a good used one).

Truck is running very well and is ready for him to start driving. I should mention, he just passed his driving test and we've made application for his DL tonight!

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

For $59 and a few hours…

How long did it take to install the Loncky steering wheel cover?

 

[Comet]

@Josie'sLandCruiser

Recommend taking the steering wheel off the truck. After that, under an hour to weave the thread and tighten everything up in the end. Everyone comments on how hard it is but I was pleasantly surprised in the end.

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

@Josie'sLandCruiser

Recommend taking the steering wheel off the truck. After that, under an hour to weave the thread and tighten everything up in the end. Everyone comments on how hard it is but I was pleasantly surprised in the end.

How difficult is it to remove the steering wheel?

 

[goingcamping]

How long did it take to install the Loncky steering wheel cover?

About 2 hours. Taking off would’ve probably been the way to go!