Another episode of "Should I!?!?"....

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The tach reads 1100 rpm. That truck is running and still has CEL on.
 
Thanks again for all the replies! Very helpful forum you've got here!!!

The photo showing the CEL also shows the tach at about 1100 rpm...so I think the engine was running at the time.

I have kept the baseline PM items in mind throughout this whole ordeal. However, after reading Nay's post and robertaleon's thread about his HG replacement, I'm a little scared!!! :o

For the PM items, I've been figuring the following will need to be done pretty much immediately after purchase:

Front axle overhaul: $350
Front brakes (rotors/pads): $200
Rear brakes (rotors/pads): $200
Engine tune-up + coolant flush (plugs/wires/hoses/etc.): $200
Drivetrain fluid flush + lube (diff/trans/TC/u-joint): $300

That's $1,250 right there....I'm sure there could be other things...so I've figured about $1500-2000 is adequate. However, that doesn't include the HG replacement. The head gasket seems like a TON of work to replace...but do-able...and hopefully I could get out of it for around $750...

To address some of the items posted by Nay.... I realize that the new Tahoe definitely has some features that a 15+ year old LC will lack...but for the most part I don't find the differences all that significant. Either the Tahoes are behind the times or the LCs were ahead. I'm guessing the latter! :doh:

I do realize that space/power/towing capacity will decrease. However, I don't utilize the Tahoe to capacity hardly ever--maybe never? ...I honestly don't know if I have ever in three years of ownership had this thing even close to fully loaded where I thought I needed more room or power. I've only pulled my Mustang on a trailer twice in those three years, also.

Right now my Tahoe gets 12-13 mpg in town...and about 15-17 on the highway. I figure that LC's might be a bit worse on the highway, but I also don't do a ton of highway driving. We use my fiance's car or a rental for all the major road trips...

My Tahoe doesn't have lockers...and it has a crappy IFS...but it is plenty capable offroad (for my uses) after a leveling kit and getting the 33" Duratracs, trimming the air dam, and adding skid plates. I would keep the LC at stock height or just a tiny lift...throw on some 33" Duratracs, and even without lockers I'm sure it would be more than capable for anything I need.

HOWEVER...all that being said...I am seriously second guessing this whole process and whether or not to just keep my Tahoe. On the contrary, I haven't found the rear ends or trannies to be a dime a dozen... A cheap tranny rebuild looks like $1k, and as much for a rear-end. Also, the fuel pump is near the end of it's typical useful life (although there are no current symptoms) which is neither easy nor inexpensive to repair.

The 100 series idea isn't a bad one, but they're definitely out of my price range right now. I'm not sure if waiting a year for that deal to pan out would be as financially beneficial for me...

This is not an easy decision to make...
 
Head gasket replacement is a crap shoot
Dont let that determine whether you by a truck or not
Most of them out there are still going to have the original head gasket
And quite frankly it is not a good bargaining tool anyway
Just because folks on here have had there head gaskets go does not mean squat
That is such a small percentage compared to the number of 80's out there that we know nothing about
 
Head gasket replacement is a **** shoot
Dont let that determine whether you by a truck or not
Most of them out there are still going to have the original head gasket
And quite frankly it is not a good bargaining tool anyway
Just because folks on here have had there head gaskets go does not mean squat
That is such a small percentage compared to the number of 80's out there that we know nothing about

Agreed. I'm not sure if I could have done my HG job for much cheaper (min is approx $220 for OEM valve-grind kit or max full rebuild), not a good bargaining tool.

If it's what you want - get a Mud member to look it over with you but as they disect the thing -you guys just might scare the dealer s***less.
 
To address some of the items posted by Nay....

By all means, if what you are looking to do is get out of the financial commitment of a $40K truck and into a $5K truck that will run you 7-8 years without too much worry...the 80 series is a great choice.

The unfortunate thing at this point is that baseline maintenance can be 50% or more of the acquisition price. I bought mine with $5K worth of PM (HG, front and rear axles, etc.) and mods that were done by the PO at Slee.

I put about 7.5K miles a year on it, so I figured that meant 4-5 years where I wouldn't have to do much of anything except for fluid changes, and that has largely been true.

The thing I'd look for is PM - you get little money back for it as a seller, but it is huge value for the buyer. Plenty for sale, so keep your eyes open.

:cheers:
 
Thanks, guys.

Nay, I think you've hit the nail on the head. I am now really leaning toward the LX 450 in my last post. The PO has recently performed much of the PM that I would have had to do right off the bat otherwise. I gave him a call and left a message, I hope to hear back from him soon.
 
I would go with the LX, especially from a mudder member knowing the history rather than a dealer
 
Going from the chevy V8 to the 80's 6 might be to big of a change. I see nobody has mentioned a 100. I am probably going to get flack for saying this but the 100 is a better DD. Same gas mileage, more power and better ride. Towing capacity is increased as well. You can find one for few grand more than the 80's. If. P if you want a hardcore trail rig with lockers and all go 80, I think you should consider a 100.


Edit: mr iPad did not tell me there were other pages. I'm not by any means saying the 80 isn't a good vehicle. But going from a new Tahoe to a 80 will be a rude awakening. Honestly, I would keep the Tahoe, if you really want a land cruiser search for a nice 100. There are some that are around 9-11K ( 60K vehicle new). Drive a 100, then drive a 80. You will quickly realize the 80 is more "backroad" oriented and the 100 is more "road" oriented, but can still do the "backroad" aspect very well.
Sent from my iPad 2 3G using IH8MUD
 
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Going from the chevy V8 to the 80's 6 might be to big of a change. I see nobody has mentioned a 100. I am probably going to get flack for saying this but the 100 is a better DD. Same gas mileage, more power and better ride. Towing capacity is increased as well. You can find one for few grand more than the 80's. If. P if you want a hardcore trail rig with lockers and all go 80, I think you should consider a 100.


Edit: mr iPad did not tell me there were other pages. I'm not by any means saying the 80 isn't a good vehicle. But going from a new Tahoe to a 80 will be a rude awakening. Honestly, I would keep the Tahoe, if you really want a land cruiser search for a nice 100. There are some that are around 9-11K ( 60K vehicle new). Drive a 100, then drive a 80. You will quickly realize the 80 is more "backroad" oriented and the 100 is more "road" oriented, but can still do the "backroad" aspect very well.
Sent from my iPad 2 3G using IH8MUD

Yep, I told him the same thing. Hundy all the way. Better investment, better road rig that goes camping.

But....you can get into a good 80 for $5K less, and that may be enough to matter...
 
I am not disagreeing with you guys, but paying the extra $5k for a 100 series is a deal breaker. At that point the math doesn't work out and I would just be better off keeping my Tahoe.

I don't want to get rid of the Tahoe just to be in the same financial situation with the 100... I love the Tahoe!

I hope to be driving at least one or two LX 450s in the next few days...We'll see how it goes!

Thanks again for all your input, guys!
 
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