Just thought of another option... Right angle on the Dremel with a Speed bit.
Another awesome yodaTEQ creation - 80 series ditch light brackets!
- Thread starter jcardona1
- Start date
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Nope, I tried that as well, the right angle adapter takes up the space.
I saw a post detailing the fender removal and it looks incredibly accessible for both the door and the body with the fender removed. There's only about a dozen 10mm bolts holding the fender on. Folks say it's a 30 min job removing it.
Fender Removal Link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-replace-a-fender.725009/#post-8447420
This picture shows the existing wire loom: https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/102_3929-jpg.744514/
I saw a post detailing the fender removal and it looks incredibly accessible for both the door and the body with the fender removed. There's only about a dozen 10mm bolts holding the fender on. Folks say it's a 30 min job removing it.
Fender Removal Link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-replace-a-fender.725009/#post-8447420
This picture shows the existing wire loom: https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/102_3929-jpg.744514/
Removing the fender IS easy. Getting everything lined back up perfectly wasn't very easy to me. In fact mine still isn't perfect although I'm probably the only one that notices.
Very true. In the past, I've mixed up some tempura type paint (water based) and paint around all the bolt heads. You can use chalk too but it doesn't get close enough to the washers for my taste. This will aid in re-aligning the bolts to the fender as you re-install.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I just use a sharpie but I like this
Believe me I marked them. But then I was replacing the door and the fender.
Door/Fender is a tough combo to realign. The sharpie doesn't work on mine, it's Black. 
I never liked seeing all the marks later on anyway so I stole my boy's finger paints one day and it was easy and fun!
I never liked seeing all the marks later on anyway so I stole my boy's finger paints one day and it was easy and fun!
Special Offer GB in the "Group Buys" Section
Group Buy - yodaTEQ Front Mirror Mount Brackets
CAD drawn, CNC laser cut out of 11 gauge steel, precision formed to fit in between mirror and the door using the existing mounting bolts designed based on US spec fj80 *This product comes powder coated in black.
Thanks for the support!
Frank
Group Buy - yodaTEQ Front Mirror Mount Brackets
CAD drawn, CNC laser cut out of 11 gauge steel, precision formed to fit in between mirror and the door using the existing mounting bolts designed based on US spec fj80 *This product comes powder coated in black.
Thanks for the support!
Frank
jtwopark
live, eat, sleep Land Cruiser!!!
where is the rest!?? waiting for "the" new stuff!! hint hint.....no pressure frank!
HungryMedic
That doesn't look too hard... What could go wrong?
Are The little LED puddle light pods still available?
Or a link if they arnt!
Looking forward to picking some brackets up
Or a link if they arnt!
Looking forward to picking some brackets up
jtwopark
live, eat, sleep Land Cruiser!!!
HungryMedic
That doesn't look too hard... What could go wrong?
Thanks!
Hey NLXTACY, did you ever get those wiring boots installed? I just ordered some, went out and stared and my truck for a bit and I'm still contemplating pulling that fender off.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
No I haven't. Life has gotten in the way. I will absolutely be dilling the .75" holes using a hole saw. Worse case I need to remove the door. But I might be able to drill from inside the door panel. Sorry, I figured I would have been much further in this mod but need to finish other things first.
I pulled the door. Undo the bolts from the hinge to the door not the hinge to the body. It went back together without needing to be realigned. I pulled three 12 awg wire through the factory grommets and then re-taped the factory harness with my new wires.
Life, that's that thing that keeps coming between my truck fantasies and my money/time. Hope things tighten up for you soon so you can do my R&D for me. 
That's the approach I took with the speaker wire I ran, didn't have to remove the door but similar result. I really don't want to drill a hole and all but that single wire on top of the loom, taped and all, makes my OCD senses tingle. :| It may be my end result though, I'm chomping at the bit to get those brackets/lights on.
That's the approach I took with the speaker wire I ran, didn't have to remove the door but similar result. I really don't want to drill a hole and all but that single wire on top of the loom, taped and all, makes my OCD senses tingle. :| It may be my end result though, I'm chomping at the bit to get those brackets/lights on.
I'm definitely pulling fenders and running new conduits but I'm only going to do it once so I'm thinking about installing the following for EACH side:
- 3x 12ga wires (LED Ditch pod, LED Forward pod, Ground for all LEDs)
- 1x 14ga (LED Puddle)
- 1x HAM Antenna cable (options and multiple antennas if needed)
- 1x 12ga dual lead wire as a spare for future use (tweeters, another light or alarm function, etc.)
I've got a CB already on the rear driver's mount from yodaTEQ and bought a passenger rear mount intended for the HAM antenna but now that might be another LED pod, depending on when the roof rack comes. The rear LED pods are planned to live on the rack eventually but at the rate I'm going, who knows when.
Any other wires I should run in these door channels while I have them off based on anyone's experience or recommendations? I'm all for running some spares or future use cables and never deal with the doors/fenders again.
- 3x 12ga wires (LED Ditch pod, LED Forward pod, Ground for all LEDs)
- 1x 14ga (LED Puddle)
- 1x HAM Antenna cable (options and multiple antennas if needed)
- 1x 12ga dual lead wire as a spare for future use (tweeters, another light or alarm function, etc.)
I've got a CB already on the rear driver's mount from yodaTEQ and bought a passenger rear mount intended for the HAM antenna but now that might be another LED pod, depending on when the roof rack comes. The rear LED pods are planned to live on the rack eventually but at the rate I'm going, who knows when.
Any other wires I should run in these door channels while I have them off based on anyone's experience or recommendations? I'm all for running some spares or future use cables and never deal with the doors/fenders again.
Planning on doing the driver side tomorrow. Really don't see any need to pull the fender. There are only four bolts and the pin holding the door on. Pulling the fender is more work with no advantage that I can see. Even if you want to run a separate loom or whatever, pulling the door is easier.
I'll go and take a look at it again. I thought with new loom there was some issue getting the drill behind the fender even with the door off.
Plenty of access to drill if you want to go that route
