..And so it begins.... my BJ40 frame off restoration

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Windshield Washer Install

Again trying to keep busy while waiting for my 60 series ps to arrive I decided to jump on ahead and install the windshield washer that my rig never came with. Soon after I got the rig I ordered a ton of c r a p from CCOT. Among this stuff was a chinese made aftermarket windshield washer kit.
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I remembered that some year cruisers had the washer nozzle shoot from below and others had the nozzle shoot down from above the windshield. Given that , I thought that it was odd that this kit came with a fair bit of the clear hose and a t fitting to split the stream. I did a bit of reseach here and found that some folks who have used the kit have plumbed 2 nozzles. Some have done two below, some two above and some have done one of each.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...er-repair.html


Many folks had a dummy hole already and that influenced their placement decision. Given that I had no dummy holes, no wiring, nada I figured that I was in virgin territory more or less. Si decided to go with two hood mounted spray nozzles.

After getting the correct distance from windshield measurements from Dieseler :cheers:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...ngs-hood-mounted-washer-nozzle-placement.html

I decided to go to the dealership and grab two nozzle heads.

While at the dealer I also decided to grab some of the OEM hose as it looked decidedly thicker than the stuff in the kit. Given that my GF had experienced frozen washer lines on her Xmas drive to the 'rents during the recent Midwest snow storms, upgrading to the thicker hose seemed a no brainer.
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I went to the dealership and the parts guy told me that while they had a current listing for the ET style nozzles, there were none in stock and would have to be ordered from Japan. I asked him to look for an equivalent from a more recent Landcruiser. He found these from a 100 series. Of course when I got home and dug in the CCOT box I found this. I decided that the lower profile heads from the 100 series would make a for a cleaner look so I'm going with those.
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I got 10' of the hose from the dealer and that was just about right leaving a little left over for to go into my spares box. I positioned the bracket out of the way on the driver's side fender just below my new SS snorkel. It is a nice tight fit but it fits. After a test fit I then plumbed and clamped each of the sections: reservoir to pump motor, pump motor to T section and then T section out to each nozzle. Once all of that was together I took the whole shebang over to the sink and ran a test using a 9v battery as my power source. Even with the 9v there does appear to be a decent stream through each tube. The acid test will be once the whole thing is in and wired up. I figure worst case scenario even if the aftermarket kit turns out to have insufficient power I can always order up the OEM kit which looks to have a slightly bigger tank and a bit beefier pump. Testing done I clamped everything down nice and snug with hose clamps. Then I went out measured and drilled the holes into the hood for the nozzles.
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Nozzle placement: I measured 10.5 inches from the edge of the hood using the last screw of the windshield retainer thing as a reference point on each side staying three inches above it. I used 10.5 instaed of 10.25 per Dieseler because I noticed that the edge of my hood was a little irregular and I wanted to leave some room for error.
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Measure again, make sure that both marks are parrallel and drill. I made pilot holes first and then came back of course with the larger bit that made a hole large enough for the nozzle heads.
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final plumbing and hose clamping done and slide everything in for it's final fit. I used zip ties to try and keep the lines tidy. The goal is that as I work in an area to change out neaten and clean it up so everything is right before it goes to paint.
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One nozzle is on back order but should be in tomorrow to the dealer. Once it arrives I'll do a final trim and clamp on the hose ends and pop the nozzles in. The next step will be to get out the wiring diagram and see where the washer and switch tie into the harness so I can get some juice to this contraption.
 
Saludos Volcano,,tremendo fj40...me podrias dar todos los numeros de el toyota snokel head,yo tengo el safari snorkel y me gustaria saber si ese filtro que tu tienes sirve tambien en el safari,dejame saber gracias
 
Saludos Volcano,,tremendo fj40...me podrias dar todos los numeros de el toyota snokel head,yo tengo el safari snorkel y me gustaria saber si ese filtro que tu tienes sirve tambien en el safari,dejame saber gracias

Eshu,
Gracias por su saludo y la oferta tan amable. Sobre el filtro, tristamente no me parece que le sirve. la forma del filtro es como un cono y el gorrito del safari es muchisima mas cuadrado. Gracias de nuevo.
John

(translation for the rest of the non spanish speaking mud community)

From Eshu: your 40 looks great and if you need I have all of the parts numbers for the entire snorkel assembly. I have a safari snorkel and I'd like to know if the filter that you have would work with the safari snorkel.

From Me:
Thanks for the great greeting and the kind offer of the parts numbers. Sadly, I don't think that the filter will work for you as it has a cone shape and the head of the safari setup is more square.

John
 
but the end part of the safari snorkel its round @ 3 inches,so that's why i ask about the number for the filter,but it's ok i will found it later on,,saludos
 
but the end part of the safari snorkel its round @ 3 inches,so that's why i ask about the number for the filter,but it's ok i will found it later on,,saludos

Ahh right, the top of the down tube is round as is the back end of the head. Ok now I understand what you are seeing. Ok the opening at the base of the filter is 3 inches. However because of the cone shape the filter tapers from the top. At the narrow point on the top it is 1 1/2 inches accross but as you go down the filter towards the base it gets wide, I'm going to guess it is 5--6 inches wide at its widest point. So really if you can use the filter you'd need 5 - 6 inches accross worth of space at the top of the Safari down tube and under the bottom of the Safari snorkel head because the head would have to fit over the filter and still connect to the down tube. As to the part number, I grabbed an off the shelf imitation k & N cold air intake filter. Sorry but I've already thrown the box out. Back in the States you should be able to find them at Auto Zone etc. I hope that this explanation makes sense.
John
 
Front end

Hello John,

Congratulations for the good work. You are making yourself a nice Cruiser. And teaching us a thing or two on overseas restoration in the meantime.

Many moons ago I considered buying a 40 series for restoration, but the sole idea of sourcing parts made me reconsider and ultimately abandon the project. Wrong decision.

I am curious about the front end. From the windshield back it looks like a 1982 model. However, the front part looks sourced from an early 70s rig, namely the old-style Land Cruiser tags, the round bezel and the grill below the windshield, to name a few things.

Apparently the provious owner had a serious crash (or something just as destructive) that damaged beyond repair the front end. It looks like he was a cheap guy, and instead of replacing the damaged parts, he sourced the whole section from an older (and probably wrecked) Cruiser. I guess you have already checked this but wanted to ask anyway.

Time for a dumb question: do you plan to keep the front end as it is, or replace it with the correct model year components?

Keep up with the good work.







JuanJ
 
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Hello John,

Congratulations for the good work. You are making yourself a nice Cruiser. And teaching us a thing or two on overseas restoration in the meantime.

Many moons ago I considered buying a 40 series for restoration, but the sole idea of sourcing parts made me reconsider and ultimately abandon the project. Wrong decision.

I am curious about the front end. From the windshield back it looks like a 1982 model. However, the front part looks sourced from an early 70s rig, namely the old-style Land Cruiser tags, the round bezel and the grill below the windshield, to name a few things.

Apparently the provious owner had a serious crash (or something just as destructive) that damaged beyond repair the front end. It looks like he was a cheap guy, and instead of replacing the damaged parts, he sourced the whole section from an older (and probably wrecked) Cruiser. I guess you have already checked this but wanted to ask anyway.

Time for a dumb question: do you plan to keep the front end as it is, or replace it with the correct model year components?

Keep up with the good work.







JuanJ

Juan,
Thanks for stopping by. You are not the first to be spun around by those features. First, it is 1980 with a build date somewhere between September and end of October. From what I have been able to learn this was done late enough in the model year that they began to add alot of features from the 81 model year. Remember also that models varied slightly from market to market. So some features common to NA or European models never made it here, like heaters, windshield washers..the list goes on. At the same time the dealer add ons in this market differed also from the NA or Aussie market. In my case the bezel and cowl and the original front bumper were chrome all dealer add ons for the Cent Am market. Now while I wouldn't put it past the PO do have done something shifty like that all of the evidence that I have encountered in the past 9 months tends otherwise. For example , the original paint can still be see all throughout the interior in various spaces. I t was originally what they called here "Mango green" which in NA is called John Deere green. In lots of places on the tub, under the drivers seat, under the dash, in the engine bay towards the front and on the firewall it is all the same color. There is no frame damage,original frame number still visible, except around the frame horns where the left side one is a little warped. There are other little indicators as well.:meh:I was a little worried in the begiining when folks asked me simillar questions until a mud member, from Mongolia, wrote me to say his, in Mongolia, had some of the same features and quirtks as mine did in Cent Am.
At any rate I'm going to keep it as she is, quirky bits and all. Once I'm done building her out mechanically she gets pulled apart to the frame, sanded and painted. I just hope that she keeps her charecter after she gets all gussied up.
John
 
Ok here is PITA point. After I have everything plumbed up and installed the little washer motor spins but isn't pumping fluid through the tubing. I have broken each section down and blew through the tubing so no obtructions just a motor that makes the whirring spinning sound but doesn't pump. Anyone got any ideas on why the motor isn't pumping.

While I was noodling this issue around I caught a break on Ebay and bought a 12k Gorilla electric winch. I saved so much money on the deal as in way under budgeet that I have enough to still pick up a decent used hydraulic winch for the rear.:clap::clap:

I also decided that I'm going to go with a MT nose guard and I'll run two supports from the nose guard to the light bar on my Hawkdriver built bumper, thereeby converting the light bar into a winch guard/light bar. I also grabbed up some Hella driving lights. Once everything gets here the front end should look pretty stout.:D:D Lastly,
half of 60 series ps arrived. Still waiting on the second half.
 
Ok here is PITA point. After I have everything plumbed up and installed the little washer motor spins but isn't pumping fluid through the tubing. I have broken each section down and blew through the tubing so no obtructions just a motor that makes the whirring spinning sound but doesn't pump. Anyone got any ideas on why the motor isn't pumping. ...

Hi John

I do know that those little pumps can't suck air.

In other words, they must be positioned where they are BELOW the water level in the reservoir (so that the pump's impeller is ALWAYS immersed in water).

You should be able to confirm where the water level is by looking inside the clear plastic tubing. Edit - Ooops - I see you used the thick black tubing so you can't see where the level is with that.

:cheers:

PS. In post 184, isn't the "washer reservoir bracket" upside-down on your inner guard? (We are looking DOWN on it aren't we?) And is that the pump outlet coming out the base of the reservoir in post 181? (Strange set-up!)



Edit - Actually this whole post of mine is cr#p. You don't have any choice but to have the pump below the water level!! So I don't really know what I'm talking about. And I probably should delete this entire post.


Hey - but then maybe I'm really onto something with my "upside-down bracket" idea. Perhaps you have the whole reservoir upside-down now and therein lies your problem.
 
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Tom,
Hi. I wish this was that easy. The bracket had to go open end up so that the pump/washerfluid reservoir could slide down on it and seat onto the bracket. The whole thing is right side up, makes it a little easier to fill that way, lol. I did fill the fluid reservoir up to the top so the pump is well below the fluid line. However I will reach in and wiggle it to make sure that there isn't an air bubble in that small section of hose that draws the fluid from the reservoir and feeds it to the pump. See your whole post wasn't crap. It gave me the idea to check for an air bubble down there. Thanks.
John
 
Ok update The 60 series PS is going in and I can't emphasize enopugh that no matter how many posts threads etc you read and how many parts lists you think that you followed that is not the end of it. There a lot of riffs of of every aspect of this. Go with 60/70 series TRE and links , keep 40 knuckle or go 60 series, steering column construction and position. Shock tower movement/placement... All that being said it has been slow going but it has been going well. I'll post pics as soon as I can get them all together.

On the washer reservoir bottle, the motor again tests fine but nothing. Since the truck is with the mecahanic now anyway and I can get to it I asked him to check for an air bubble in the line of if I over tightend the lower hose clamp and accidentally shut off the fluid flow.:o I'll finish pics of tha piece again as soon as I can get them together.

The gorilla winch arrived. Gotta say something about those folks. The handle for the wired remote and the cover for the solenoid got busted during shipment so I called to complain about c r a p p y packaging. Before I could get a peep out the customer service woman said no worries the new parts are already on their way to you, sorry for the bother. Apparently they have a "no hassle " replacement policy. At any rate the winch mount is going on as is the winch.

The nose guard and supports from MT are en route and will go on and box in the winch and turn the light bar into a winch guard.

The split charging system from National Luna is also en route and will go in to round out my planned electrical system of controlled chargeing dual batteries.

Last but by no means least the game changer. The push is on to get all of this stuff here and on the rig before this big, new, beautiful baby arrives. I got a call completely out of the blue from a local parts importer who I speak to off and on and whom I asked to stay on the look out for me. He called, hesitant, trying not to disappoint. He said I know that you were looking for this engine but it is coming with all of this other stuff that you didnt ask for let me know if you are still interested as my purchasing agent has a line on it pre-auction in Japan. After some superficial haggling I got him a deposit. so with too much adoo, I present the new babies, triplets actually: 1HZ, 5spd tranny, new transfer case. All with less than 70,000kms on the clock.:bounce::bounce::bounce:
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More. These are all just before it got crated and put in the container.
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