They can. They use high quality Mellett rebuild kits.
Builds An HJ61 followed me home to Texas
- Thread starter bottombracket
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
They can. They use high quality Mellett rebuild kits.
https://www.amazon.com/Abcturbo-Tur...d=1546975017&sr=8-3&keywords=ct26+rebuild+kit
Rebuild kits are cheaper than the Hoslet I rebuilt. Looks about the same number of parts.
Rebuild kits are cheaper than the Hoslet I rebuilt. Looks about the same number of parts.
bottombracket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #63
I just boxed it up and dropped it into the mail. We will know soon.
What was their quote? My Holset on the new build is crusty crusty. I have been spraying it everyday for a week prepping for bolt removal. Depending on price I would think about having someone do it so I don't have to get creative removing the housing. It's the old time vs money debate I guess and sometimes you have better things to do.
bottombracket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #65
Rebuilds start at $375; all dependent of course of what needs to be replaced.
bottombracket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #66
I am really glad that I went new OEM instead of paying nearly 200 bucks to have my 30-year-old radiator recored. It really is a thing of beauty.
Are you going improve your turbo and high flow it while out?
Hey, how much was that factory radiator? I may need to replace mine soon.
Cheers.
Cheers.
bottombracket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #69
@mongoose2231, PM me for details.
bottombracket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #70
I started cleaning up the oil and water lines to the turbo. I can’t believe how clean the lines are. I just hit the oil line with degreaser and a rag.
Lucky..... mine were garbage, and clogged up.
BottomBracket,
Exhaust rings and Oring seals are in the mail. Feistl just sent them my way a few hours ago. He hooked us up pretty quick.
I also ordered an extra water pump union fitting. The little rotted out screw in fitting that goes in your waterpump housing. Did you order one? The extra I ordered will arrive at the end of the month if you need it.
Exhaust rings and Oring seals are in the mail. Feistl just sent them my way a few hours ago. He hooked us up pretty quick.
I also ordered an extra water pump union fitting. The little rotted out screw in fitting that goes in your waterpump housing. Did you order one? The extra I ordered will arrive at the end of the month if you need it.
You gonna paint those turbo lines?
I could ceramic coat them for you if your not in a hurry.
I could ceramic coat them for you if your not in a hurry.
bottombracket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #74
I did get two unions.
I think I’m going to just keep the turbo lines as is. I’m tossing around the idea of powder coating them clear like @roma042987 and DanS have done.
I think I found an OEM water line that will work. I found a hose in my parts stash, 99556-30300 which is the correct internal diameter and should be able to bend to mate to the water pump. I should be able to clean up the front of the engine and start bolting it back together.
There is still some blue paint under all that gunk.
bottombracket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #75
Timing is everything.
So every day I’ve worked on this motor, I look at it and ask myself why I’m not just pulling it and rebuilding it. The answer had been that I’ve never rebuilt an engine before, and the stakes are high on this one. If it was a 2F...I’d jump right in.
Today @roma042987 texted me...and offered to rebuild the long block.
Done deal.
Time to pull this sucker out.
So every day I’ve worked on this motor, I look at it and ask myself why I’m not just pulling it and rebuilding it. The answer had been that I’ve never rebuilt an engine before, and the stakes are high on this one. If it was a 2F...I’d jump right in.
Today @roma042987 texted me...and offered to rebuild the long block.
Done deal.
Time to pull this sucker out.
That's probably a good choice, IMHO.
Let me know if you need help sourcing any rebuild parts. Like MLS headgaskets or rebuild kits, anything. Just let me know how I can help if needed.
Let me know if you need help sourcing any rebuild parts. Like MLS headgaskets or rebuild kits, anything. Just let me know how I can help if needed.
bottombracket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #77
Thanks. I have a full OEM rebuild gasket kit in hand. It will probably take a little time until I get the motor to Roma and he tears it down until we see what big pieces will actually be needed. I won’t be able to order pistons and bearings until then.
Come get the hoist. I'll be here.
bottombracket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #79
Turbo questions:
John at Majestic Turbo in Waco looked my turbo over and gave her a clean bill of health. It’ll be getting a standard rebuild.
Two questions for the group?
1. Is there any benefit to high flowing a standard CT26. If there is an available drop in billet compressor wheel, is that a worthwhile upgrade for what will otherwise be a stock motor. I’m not looking to push the motor, just run a standard tune.
2. EGT probe placement: I know that the standard location to drop in EGT probe and is in the center of the exhaust manifold. However, I worry about weakening the manifold and causing cracks further down the road. I’ve sen plenty of Aussie guys drill and tap the turbine housing itself. A brief MUD search didn’t show much.
Where would be optimal on the CT26? Just above the wastegate actuator? On the turbine outlet just before it meets the exhaust manifold flange? On the bottom (6 o’clock) of the turbine housing? I’m trying to figure out what would be out-of-the-way from and of the associated engine bay components and still allow me to stay preturbo. I would like to avoid going post turbo and putting a probe into the dump pipe.
John at Majestic Turbo in Waco looked my turbo over and gave her a clean bill of health. It’ll be getting a standard rebuild.
Two questions for the group?
1. Is there any benefit to high flowing a standard CT26. If there is an available drop in billet compressor wheel, is that a worthwhile upgrade for what will otherwise be a stock motor. I’m not looking to push the motor, just run a standard tune.
2. EGT probe placement: I know that the standard location to drop in EGT probe and is in the center of the exhaust manifold. However, I worry about weakening the manifold and causing cracks further down the road. I’ve sen plenty of Aussie guys drill and tap the turbine housing itself. A brief MUD search didn’t show much.
Where would be optimal on the CT26? Just above the wastegate actuator? On the turbine outlet just before it meets the exhaust manifold flange? On the bottom (6 o’clock) of the turbine housing? I’m trying to figure out what would be out-of-the-way from and of the associated engine bay components and still allow me to stay preturbo. I would like to avoid going post turbo and putting a probe into the dump pipe.
I wouldn't high flow it if you don't plan on turning up the fuel.
Regarding the EGT probe placement, just drill the manifold. It's been done many times.
Regarding the EGT probe placement, just drill the manifold. It's been done many times.
